Mazdaspeeder

I did find a review on a bike very similar to mine that got good praise, but obviously at it's pricepoint was not a game changer: Fuji Gran Fondo 2.3 C review - BikeRadar USA

The overall mix of components seems good, and the Praxis chain ring up front seems to be better than I expected it to be, so really the wheel set (googled at it weighs in at 1950g) is one of the heavier components, but otherwise I'm saving a few grams here and there, probably not enough to even shave off 1 kilo, so I may end up saving the wheel money for when the wheels actually have a faliure (though they are supposedly pretty tough). I could see a savings of close to 1kg in the wheelset and tires alone, just not a cheap project.

MAIN FRAMEC5 high-modulus carbon, integrated head tube w/ 1 1/2" lower, internal cable routing, oversized PIIS BB86 shell, double water bottle mounts
REAR TRIANGLEC5 high-modulus carbon thin seatstays, oversized ETC chainstays, forged-alloy dropout w/ replaceable hanger
FORKFC-440 carbon monocoque w/ tapered carbon steerer & carbon dropout
CRANKSETOval 520 forged alloy, 50/34T
BOTTOM BRACKETPress-fit BB86 sealed bearing
PEDALSN/A
FRONT DERAILLEURShimano 105, braze-on mount
REAR DERAILLEURShimano 105, 10-speed
SHIFTERSShimano 105 STI shifter/brake combo, Flight Deck-compatible, 20-speed
CASSETTEShimano Tiagra, 12-30T, 10-speed
CHAINKMC X10, 10-speed
WHEELSETOval 327 aero alloy clincher, 20/24H precision road hubs, stainless bladed spokes
TIRESVittoria Zaffiro Pro Slick, 60 tpi, 700c x 25mm, folding
BRAKE SETShimano 105BRAKE LEVERSShimano 105 STI
HEADSETFSA Orbit C-40, 1 1/8" upper - 1 1/2" lower, integrated
HANDLEBAROval 310 butted 6061 alloy, 31.8mm
STEMOval 313 3D-forged 6061 alloy, 31.8mm, +/- 7 degrees
TAPE/GRIPOval 300 suede-padded tape
SADDLEOval R500 w/ CrMo hollow rails
SEAT POSTOval 905, carbon 31.6mm x 350mm
WEIGHT, LB./KG.19.07lbs / 8.67kg

I did order (2) Bontrager xxx bottle cages on ebay last night for $40 shipped, not bad considering the regular RL is $20 at the store ($16 after my 20% off). Spent a few extra bucks on some extra cool, plus i had money in my paypal already and didn't have to charge my CC

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Geek out

Home page Friction Facts

NastyNate

iTrader: (1)

Picked up my first road bike a week ago, a Motobecane Mirage S. Holy crap this is a weird world coming from mountain bikes.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

This actually reminds me of a question that's been bugging me a lot of late: why do high-end TT / Triathalon bikes all sound like ****?

I seem to get passed by a half-dozen of 'em a day as I cross through Central Park, and quite a few of them emit a noise which is hard to describe- a high pitched sort of whirring sound that reminds me of a poorly lubricated and indifferently assembled skateboard wheel.

What the hell causes this? No other bikes make this noise, regardless of speed. I'm fairly certain it's not aerodynamic in nature, it's got a frictioney sort of character about it. And yet these are the exact machines I'd expect to have about as much friction going on as a greased weasel in a waxed-paper factory.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

That is what $2500 worth of 1.5 lb hollow carbon bicycle wheels sounds like.

On my TT bike, it's probably over 100db in my spaceballs helmet at race pace (25-35pmh). I wear earplugs on the TT bike now.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

It's the drivetrain resonating through the carbon disc wheel.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

No kidding?

My gut feeling was that not all of 'em were running solid disc wheels (I see a lot of tri-spokes and deep tubular spoked wheels) but I'll have to start paying closer attention.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Yeah, no BS. I noticed an increase in noise going from an aluminum bike on aluminum wheels to a carbon bike on aluminum wheels. I would notice it on group rides with guys on deeper-section carbon wheels even more. Discs will make a bunch more noise than that, even.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Choochoofoo builds MTB wheels, he's your man. I had a set of wheels with Novatec hubs, both axles were bent. I will not buy CK R45s because they require special tools to disassemble, and they are expensive. I will one day ask Choochoofoo to build me a set of MTB wheels, but that's when I either have a Top Fuel or big-boy Santa Cruz.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Stem>power meter>wheels>frame

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Speaking of bicycle noises, my Evo is absolutely silent, even on composite wheels. My Santa Cruz Stigmata is ******* loud, "gong!!!!!!!"

18psi

iTrader: (76)

lol and here I thought it was something wrong or not enough chain lube

afm

iTrader: (3)

Need more mountain bike on this page. Glad to see other people have problems too.





Forgive the d-baggery with the sheet; I took this picture in case I ever wanted to sell this bike.

afm

iTrader: (3)

Consider ditching the older Avid/SRAM brakes. Older XT (M78x) brakes are really cheap right now, and are a quantum leap in performance.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Too much money, would rather have a power meter for the CX bike, or buy kit.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'll take protection-levels and usually longevity over lower-friction almost every time.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

cat awarded

Itty

As someone who has paid for all the data from Friction Facts, I can say that worrying about which bearings you put in your BB and hubs, and what you lube your chain with, and "are my der. pulleys big enough?" are really a waste of time unless you already have the most aerodynamic position possible and know how to race to save energy, etc. Bicycles already have incredibly efficient drivetrains and losses are much smaller than those from aerodynamics. Rolling resistance can make a pretty big difference though.

All that being said, it's always fun to geek out on maximizing performance. The same sort of thing goes for trying to improve our cars when we have plenty more room to improve as drivers.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

For semi fit non-racers, yes it is useless info. For fit races that spend a lot of time an energy maximizing their training and equipment, it's good info. My last time 20k time trial, I tied for first down to the tenth of second.

Itty

I never said it was useless, just that it isn't worth worrying about unless you are fighting for that tenth of a second.

IMO, that is the very last place you should look for improving performance on a bike.

Edit: By last, I mean after improving in every other area.