Iím shopping for race tires for the upcoming gravel grinders we have all over here in Cali. Gotta be either tubeless or at least tubeless ready. Folding bead only. The inner liner on some tires is not compatible with stuff in Stanís sealant for example. Some on tubeless ready tires can still be mounted up but itís usually a PIT requiring soapy water, slime an air compressor and infinite patience. None of which will be available 50 miles from nowhere in the middle of a training ride. My frame has room for a max of 40c. Iím listing some sizes bigger since other here might be able to accommodate them.
Here is the list I have so far:
So, I still have problems with this new 6800 cassette. It clicks in two gears on each half wheel rotation, climbing four teeth on the cassette. If I adjust the RD inboard, it will not shift from the 25 or 23, slow to shift from the 13 to the 12. When I change cassettes to the old one, there are no problems, no noise; the problem stays with the cassette when swapping from wheel to wheel. If my cadence is over 95rpm or so, the chain will slap and flop.
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I wonder if this is what broke my chain a couple weeks ago? Is this normal? What is wrong?
Measure your chain stretch. Park makes a cheap tool for this that is a must have. I replace my chains before they get two .5 on the gauge. If your chain is all the way out to .75 unfortunately you will probably have to replace your chain rings as well.
The other thing to look for is derailleur hanger alignment. I don't have the tool for this anymore but all bike shops have one. Good idea for any bike that has a replaceable derailleur hanger is to always have a spare in your tool box. I carry it with me on my mountain bike as it only weighs about an ounce.
If you are going to do all your own work instead of paying a pro I suggest buying a book on bicycle maintenance. This is basic fault tree diagnostic for shifting problems. Nothing advanced.
The chain is new (so was the one I broke), the RD hanger is new and alignment checked by a shop, all installed by the shop.
How is this a basic deal if the other cassette works flawlessly? Shouldn't I be able to swap between cassettes without any adjustment? Regardless, I've adjusted RD in and out and any inboard adjustment makes shifting "not great". I chased this through the basic fault-tree type diagnostic and I'm left with a chain that skips and in one case, breaks. The shop says "this is as good as it gets, the 11-speed stuff is 'tight'". However, the old cassette doesn't do this.
I've been through the Shimano manuals, read a few places online, what book should I buy?
I put this on the bicycle forum:
The bicycle rode flawlessly until changing cassettes, now I have this strange chain "skip" or "buck". When I'm pedaling in the 53 and 16 or 17-tooth, the chain makes a ticking noise on each wheel rotation. After a little madness including breaking a sub 100-mile chain, I realized the chain is slightly climbing the lower cassette gear. When I spin the crank backwards, you can more easily see it climb. If I spin 110rpm, the chain bucks and skips a little. I decided to deal with the noise at the suggestion of the bicycle shop who said "11-speed stuff is just really tight" and then I broke a chain early in my first ride through some hills.
This made me pretty frustrated so I put on the old , same model number cassette and it does not make this noise nor cause the chain to climb the lower gear. To eliminate variables, I replaced the RD hanger and had it checked by the shop, it's straight. I swapped cassettes on wheels and it always comes back to the one, new cassette as the noise maker. I removed and re-installed the bottom bracket to make sure the crank mounts as inboard as possible. If I adjust the RD inward just one click, the chain is slow to shift from the 25, 23, and slow to shift down to the 12-tooth.
New 6800 cassette
New 6800 chain
New RD hanger
RD straight-ness verified by shop
Bottom bracket installation reconfirmed (crank is mounted inboard correctly) by shop
Axle and axle cap are straight and true
Cassette noise only on 16 and 17-tooth cogs
Compared and confirmed inter-gear spacer width consistency from old cassette to new
Gears appear to be flat when laid on a machinist's straight
Any RD minor adjustment inboard causes slow/undesirable shifting
Any RD minor adjustment outboard increases noise and chain skipping
New cassette behaves strangely on both sets of wheels; old cassette works flawlessly on both sets of wheels
I'm struggling with some form of hub/freehub issue on my Powertap wheel. 1200 miles on the hub in total. I swapped a Campy-compatible freehub onto the wheel 350 miles ago. The freehub is sticking and kicking the chain forward when I am freewheeling. I did a full freehub service, cleaned all the old junk/grease out, relubed with light oil, and it spins perfectly on the stand, but as soon as I put weight on the hub, the freehub sticks again. Today, I took the Campy freehub off, put the Shimano hub back on, and put the wheel on the Kona, and it freewheels perfectly. Any words of wisdom/experience before I call and warranty the Campy freehub?