If FEMA had the bicycles, would it fund Hustler's manlet bib? - Page 180 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-28-2016, 05:38 PM   #3581
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Damn, I just ordered cannondale bars off ebay.
Yes but from what we discussed, my bars are not right for you. You need those shorter reach 42cm bars. Mine are a little longer reach, wider.
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:27 PM   #3582
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Yes but from what we discussed, my bars are not right for you. You need those shorter reach 42cm bars. Mine are a little longer reach, wider.
I know I'm just being funny. I really appreciate your help thanks again. I got the bars you recommended but not the bar tape. I got cheap tape to practice on instead. I'll swap to the pretty stitched synthetic tape once I know I won't ruin it.

Last edited by TurboTim; 01-28-2016 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:41 PM   #3583
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I know I'm just being funny. I really appreciate your help thanks again. I got the bars you recommended but not the bar tape. I got cheap tape to practice on instead. I'll swap to the pretty stitched synthetic tape once I know I won't ruin it.
Zevlin has cheaper stuff too without the stitching. After a couple wrappings, you'll be pro.
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Old 01-29-2016, 09:06 AM   #3584
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I'll end up doing that because their 'red' stitching is really pink, and they don't have white with black stitching. Nah thanks.

The ebay seller you linked me to was having a special, buy two things get $3 off. So the bar tape was about half off

When it's time for you to sell your saddles, let me know.
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Old 01-29-2016, 11:13 AM   #3585
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I could use bars for my cheapo commuter bike. not sure what stem I need yet until I have the bars and levers though.

Commuter bike project...
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Old 01-29-2016, 11:49 AM   #3586
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For some reason, cheapo commuter bikes always end up being my favorites.

Looks like you need a 1" quill stem. I'd get the stem before getting the bars since you'll need to match up the clamp diameter and only one type of stem will work. Not a lot (none) of quill stems come with 31.8 diameter.
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Old 01-29-2016, 12:04 PM   #3587
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For some reason, cheapo commuter bikes always end up being my favorites.

Looks like you need a 1" quill stem. I'd get the stem before getting the bars since you'll need to match up the clamp diameter and only one type of stem will work. Not a lot (none) of quill stems come with 31.8 diameter.
yeah, I have a quill stem with a ~26mm clamp. Its the wrong angle as is, so I will be cutting the stem part off, so I will have no problem welding a 31.8 sized piece of tube on for a clamp.

got the frame (delivered) for $10.
Wheels and 10 speed 105 cassette (12-28 or something) for $50

I have brake calipers that will work, but I need a pointy metal saw to cut out the seat post LOL pos is seized in there good.
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Old 01-29-2016, 12:15 PM   #3588
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yeah I figured Matt would/could fab a stem to fit the 31.8mm bar. That should be easier than fabbing up a tandem frame from scratch haha.

How much does that steel frame weigh?
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Old 01-29-2016, 01:12 PM   #3589
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The thought of welding/customizing an existing stem didn't even occur to me. It seems like there are plenty of quill stems and 26mm bars to choose from for dirt cheap on ebay.
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Old 01-29-2016, 04:07 PM   #3590
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How much does that steel frame weigh?
lol, quite a bit. probably ~6lbs? aint worried. its a beater bike, price was right.

If I really cared, I would build myself a new frame, but I would have had to buy a fork and headset to get where I am now. I have the tubes to build an aluminum frame, but this is easy and im using garbage bin parts I have to get it going cheap.

The wheels I kind of lucked out on... Im thinking I will remove the cassette though and run a 9 speed 12-32 cassette I have that's in ok shape. non-indexed shifting a 10 speed system would probably be a pain. plus I can likely sell the 12-28 10 speed cassette to recoup some $ from the wheels, if I really wanted to.


I have some used hoops that im taking to the local bike cooperative (some nice rims to be honest) to try and trade for some outstanding bits I need...
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Old 01-29-2016, 04:11 PM   #3591
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The thought of welding/customizing an existing stem didn't even occur to me. It seems like there are plenty of quill stems and 26mm bars to choose from for dirt cheap on ebay.
yeah, I could buy some on ebay, but its $ to ship to Canada a $5 part. Im going to try the bike coop before I go online.

modification to the quill stem I have that is steel shouldn't be a problem. Its a mtb stem that I have, so its a pretty high rise stem. I have my Salsa Size-o-matic coming in and it has a quill to threadless adapter in it to help dial in my fit on this frame (I think the frame is borderline too big, its a 58cm) if its too big, i will sell the frame again lol. I just want a bike for commuting/ casual riding that i can toss some fenders on so i don't get even more soaked like i did this summer and a rack for my lunch bag would be nice so i don't sweat through my dress shirt on the way to the office.
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Old 01-29-2016, 04:16 PM   #3592
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oh yeah, i ordered a salsa size o matic stem to help dial in my fit on any bike.

Size-O-Matic II | Parts & Accessories | Salsa Cycles

pretty dope. 55-155mm length range, -20 to +40 degree angle range.

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Old 01-30-2016, 10:48 PM   #3593
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Well, I own a black Stigmata with Rival now. That was a surprise.
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:58 PM   #3594
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Well, I own a black Stigmata with Rival now. That was a surprise.
Awwwww yissss!

Now buy my Force22 stuff to make it less poverty.
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Old 01-30-2016, 11:25 PM   #3595
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Awwwww yissss!

Now buy my Force22 stuff to make it less poverty.
CX1?
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Old 01-31-2016, 01:09 AM   #3596
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CX1?
I know a guy
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Old 01-31-2016, 01:31 AM   #3597
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I know a guy
Sweet, I need:
1x clutched RD
CX1 style chain (apparently they are different)
11-34 cassette
40-tooth narrow-wide crank ring
Affirming that the Stigmata is a better bike than an orange Super-X.
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Old 01-31-2016, 06:52 PM   #3598
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Talk to me about trimming/reworking SRAM brake lines. These ******* are like 6" too long.
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:00 PM   #3599
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Easiest thing in the world*

I do this every day. Many times a day honestly.

1) gather materials. Needed : 1 barb, one olive, per lever, 8mm box wrench (or crow foot if you want to get all ), razor blade, t10 torx, bleed kit**
2) loosen 8mm nut at lever remove line from lever.
3) cut line to taste
4) make sure compression nut is slid down line, slide olive over end of line, thread in barb using t10.
5)re-install line into lever. Tighten it up so that the compression fitting actually compresses. I should probably know the torque value, but I do this by feel.
6) probably bleed brakes**
7)

*If you have the tools
**You very well could not have to bleed the brake if you follow these steps (I WILL NOT TAKE RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU CONTAMINATE YOUR **** DOING THIS IMPROPERLY)
-With the brake still assembled, squeeze the lever without a rotor in the caliper such that the brake pads touch together. This pushes a good chunk of extra fluid into the caliper. We will use this fluid to displace the bubble created by breaking the line.
-Shorten line as outlined above.
-When everything is re-connected there is a bubble created at the junction between the line and the lever. Push the pads apart and the pistons back into their bores. This pushes the fluid that was held in the caliper back up the line and displaces that bubble into the reservoir. Voila, no bleed needed.
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:12 PM   #3600
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Thank you, I may need the barbs and olives.

I'm guessing this is quick-release ****? I've never seen quick release stuff that requires hand-tools:

I need to cut so much off the lines, I'm worried the quick release looking thingies will interfere with the routing.
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