If FEMA had the bicycles, would it fund Hustler's manlet bib?
04-08-2016, 03:37 PM
#3763
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tandem 2.0 is nearly ready to be started!
ordered PF30 to BSA threaded china adapter, Robert Axle Project axle for Thule towing, heavy duty spokes and a shimano brake bleed kit.
Frame geo went through its last iteration and is ready to rock.
ordered PF30 to BSA threaded china adapter, Robert Axle Project axle for Thule towing, heavy duty spokes and a shimano brake bleed kit.
Frame geo went through its last iteration and is ready to rock.
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04-09-2016, 01:13 PM
#3764
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Serious questions, please respond to all.
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04-11-2016, 11:23 AM
#3765
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I do ride it with buddies, but straight up...nohomo.
build it with lax geo. tandems are already fast, we aren't racing.
rear geo is on a bit of a different level. instead of cockpit measurement you measure as boom tube length. last year was 775mm boom tube, this year is 725mm.
Also raising the BB height this year to 70mm vs the deep drop 77mm we ran last year. pedal strike on a tandem is scary.
build it with lax geo. tandems are already fast, we aren't racing.
rear geo is on a bit of a different level. instead of cockpit measurement you measure as boom tube length. last year was 775mm boom tube, this year is 725mm.
Also raising the BB height this year to 70mm vs the deep drop 77mm we ran last year. pedal strike on a tandem is scary.
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04-11-2016, 01:22 PM
#3767
So, I'm thinking that I'm going to sell the Curtlo CCX flat-bar bike and just put a rigid fork and some baldies on my old Zaskar. The Curtlo is a nice frame, but it's not the right compromise for me. It's not a good road bike -- too heavy, slow, and upright, and the gearing is wrong. It's not really all that great for slow lazy rides around the neighborhood, either -- geometry is a bit too tall and twitchy to feel comfortable at low speed, not to mention the toe/wheel overlap in slow cornering. But someone will like it. If nothing else, some CCXer should buy it for the frame.
And instead, my old Zaskar, which is essentially worthless in terms of resale, can easily meet the same priorities, and probably a bit better, actually. With a decent rigid fork it should be pretty light, and the low standover height and more relaxed geometry should make it more fun for noodling around the neighborhood with my family. I figure by the time my kid is old enough to go mountain-biking, I'll want a new(er) mountain bike anyway so there's no point in just storing the Zaskar for future use.
Does this make sense? Thoughts?
And instead, my old Zaskar, which is essentially worthless in terms of resale, can easily meet the same priorities, and probably a bit better, actually. With a decent rigid fork it should be pretty light, and the low standover height and more relaxed geometry should make it more fun for noodling around the neighborhood with my family. I figure by the time my kid is old enough to go mountain-biking, I'll want a new(er) mountain bike anyway so there's no point in just storing the Zaskar for future use.
Does this make sense? Thoughts?
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04-11-2016, 01:58 PM
#3769
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So, I'm thinking that I'm going to sell the Curtlo CCX flat-bar bike and just put a rigid fork and some baldies on my old Zaskar. The Curtlo is a nice frame, but it's not the right compromise for me. It's not a good road bike -- too heavy, slow, and upright, and the gearing is wrong. It's not really all that great for slow lazy rides around the neighborhood, either -- geometry is a bit too tall and twitchy to feel comfortable at low speed, not to mention the toe/wheel overlap in slow cornering. But someone will like it. If nothing else, some CCXer should buy it for the frame.
And instead, my old Zaskar, which is essentially worthless in terms of resale, can easily meet the same priorities, and probably a bit better, actually. With a decent rigid fork it should be pretty light, and the low standover height and more relaxed geometry should make it more fun for noodling around the neighborhood with my family. I figure by the time my kid is old enough to go mountain-biking, I'll want a new(er) mountain bike anyway so there's no point in just storing the Zaskar for future use.
Does this make sense? Thoughts?
And instead, my old Zaskar, which is essentially worthless in terms of resale, can easily meet the same priorities, and probably a bit better, actually. With a decent rigid fork it should be pretty light, and the low standover height and more relaxed geometry should make it more fun for noodling around the neighborhood with my family. I figure by the time my kid is old enough to go mountain-biking, I'll want a new(er) mountain bike anyway so there's no point in just storing the Zaskar for future use.
Does this make sense? Thoughts?
so you want a road bike, and not a flat bar bike?
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04-12-2016, 11:17 AM
#3774
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Old frame is going to sit in the craw space once I get this one built... just to make sure im happy with this one. it was a bit of a learning experience with the 1st frame. it has 2" down and boom tubes with 1" lateral and top tubes. the 1" tube allows some flex and its straight guage tube so its not particularly light weight. going to 2" top tubes that are butted and weigh the same as the 1" thick walled tube I used on last years frame but because the material is so much bigger it should work very well to keep twist down.
the front is roughly a 54cm measured along the top tube, 53cm measured horizontally. last year was roughly the same, but with a shorter head tube. head tube last year was 160mm +14mm HS stack on the bottom cup. this year im going to a 180mm head tube plus the headset stack.
I went 77mm bb drop to keep the bike stable with 2 riders, its common on tandems to run a pretty deep drop. Im compromising a bit with bb drop this year to make sure we aren't sparking the pedals this time LOL.
The rear compartment is pretty short when compared to a single road bike. right now the drawings for a 705mm boom tube (small) have the reach to the CL of the stem at 450-490mm from CL of the tt/st junction. its fine though because you don't want to have your face right on the person in front of you which is what was happening with the bike setup to have the same position as a normal bike.
Changing the trail of the bike this year with a 49mm rake'd fork. should lighten the steering a bit without adding a whole ton of wheel flop. Pretty big deal because handling a bike for two adds a lot of stress in your shoulders and upper body that you don't notice on a single bike.
who knows... im experimenting. frame tubes for the tandem are in the whole scheme of things pretty low cost. frame tubes + small parts in this case are ~$250 as shown.
If SRAM had their etap out with long cage RD and hydro, I would have definitely chose that for a groupset. being that they don't, I have the ultegra di2 to fit to the bike now. last year we went with 105 mechanical and it was a pain because of the long long (2.5m) cable runs for shifting and braking.
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04-15-2016, 10:11 AM
#3777
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I finally did the legit Dallas Crit, known as Fair Park Crit, and it was bizarre. My average HR was 180bpm and I now have a new max HR of 189. I suppose I'm working harder after the three weeks of illness on my first week back. I'm still really struggling to trust the front wheel on corner entry at speed, realized my "keep on cleat covers" are causing the increase in pedal strikes so I'll get the smaller Speedplay ones. Any advice from the resident pros on trusting the front-wheel for the first half of the corner? Our average speed was still 25.9mph last night so it's not like we're poking around out there and I worked for my teammate to win the tequila preme.
Also, doing my last, cat-5 crit this weekend, looking forward to racing 3/4 races, B races as training for CX season.
Also, doing my last, cat-5 crit this weekend, looking forward to racing 3/4 races, B races as training for CX season.
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04-15-2016, 10:51 AM
#3778
Riding MTBs in the dirt where you can slide around a bit and get a feel for that really helps. You need to have both front and rear tires wash out and then catch it many times to develop the instinct and feel. On one hand you not afraid if it slides a little bit because you know you can catch it. On the other hand you know what it feels like just before the tired let's go so you can relax a little bit.
Watching Paris Roubaix last weekend there were lots of clips of guys washing the front wheel out but then catching it. Then there were a few clips of guys not catching it. The guys that caught it were generally the guys who have done a lot of the cobbled classics. The riders that went down were guys who have little/no experience. So it's just sliding around and getting a feel for it but you have to do that sliding around. In other words it's hard to develop that feel if you never actually Slide the tires around. That's where the mountain bike comes in but cross would also be an excellent way to build those skills.
Watching Paris Roubaix last weekend there were lots of clips of guys washing the front wheel out but then catching it. Then there were a few clips of guys not catching it. The guys that caught it were generally the guys who have done a lot of the cobbled classics. The riders that went down were guys who have little/no experience. So it's just sliding around and getting a feel for it but you have to do that sliding around. In other words it's hard to develop that feel if you never actually Slide the tires around. That's where the mountain bike comes in but cross would also be an excellent way to build those skills.
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04-15-2016, 11:06 AM
#3779
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I should note that in CX, I'm quite comfortable with the sliding. When the front tire starts to go, pedal and or shift weight, no problem. I suppose it's because I'm much happier to fall and slide on grass/dirt/mud than receive the bills associated with falling on concrete. I've been riding a fair amount of single track on my CX bike recently, really enjoying that, helping with balance too.
Can you feel tire feedback through the bars on your road bike? I can't and I think that's because I've never put enough force through the tire to feel it, which would be really cool. After more thought, I can feel the tire working on my CX bike through the corners when I'm putting force through it, but that's a much larger tire.
I'd also like to note that going 7-wide through a corner on bicycles at 34mph is way more intense than going 3 or 4-wide through a corner in cars at 90mph; turn-1 at TWS is the exception.
Can you feel tire feedback through the bars on your road bike? I can't and I think that's because I've never put enough force through the tire to feel it, which would be really cool. After more thought, I can feel the tire working on my CX bike through the corners when I'm putting force through it, but that's a much larger tire.
I'd also like to note that going 7-wide through a corner on bicycles at 34mph is way more intense than going 3 or 4-wide through a corner in cars at 90mph; turn-1 at TWS is the exception.
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04-15-2016, 11:09 AM
#3780
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I also had a cat-2 who's experienced in carts and sportscars here an Europe ($$$), now racing bicycles. He told me that I shouldn't respect or look to "these guys out here" for line theory or racecraft type stuff in crit racing, they're mostly idiots who followed the lines and moves of pros, replicated those. So when I race the races this weekend which is not a common course, trust myself and not others because they will be the ones who are lost.
He also commended me on racing with him in CX, my corner-speeds, treating the CX course like an auto-x.
He also commended me on racing with him in CX, my corner-speeds, treating the CX course like an auto-x.
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