Torn between old and new
10-26-2010, 12:44 AM
#1
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Torn between old and new
So as far as my miata, I have that all figured out. When it comes to my truck, that's different. I have a 2000 chevy silverado single cab shortbed 4x4. It has a 4.8 liter vortec v8, with a 4 speed automatic. The stereo is how I want it, pretty much the truck is how I want it except it sits like it's 2 wheel drive. I want at least a 33" mud terrain under it. I read that this could be achieved with a simple leveling kit that cranks the torsion arms. I don't want the tires to look stuffed under it though, but a complete suspension lift kit is big bucks and a real lot of work.
I like the power the truck has, and I get about 17 mpg with it.
My other option is buy my friends truck which is a 1972 chevy 4x4 shortbed, original 350 v8, with a 3 speed on the column. I love that truck, but it'll suck on gas mileage, especially with a 4" suspension lift and 33" tires. It's also carburated, so it won't be as dependable as my fuel injected LS motor'd 2000.
A 4" suspension lift on a '72 chevy pickup costs like $500, and 33" tires for 15" rims are fairly inexpensive. A 4" suspension lift for my 2000 silverado costs like $1800 and 33" tires for my 17" rims are like $260 a piece. So there's 3 grand right there if I stick with the new.
Opinions?
I like the power the truck has, and I get about 17 mpg with it.
My other option is buy my friends truck which is a 1972 chevy 4x4 shortbed, original 350 v8, with a 3 speed on the column. I love that truck, but it'll suck on gas mileage, especially with a 4" suspension lift and 33" tires. It's also carburated, so it won't be as dependable as my fuel injected LS motor'd 2000.
A 4" suspension lift on a '72 chevy pickup costs like $500, and 33" tires for 15" rims are fairly inexpensive. A 4" suspension lift for my 2000 silverado costs like $1800 and 33" tires for my 17" rims are like $260 a piece. So there's 3 grand right there if I stick with the new.
Opinions?
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10-26-2010, 01:02 AM
#2
So as far as my miata, I have that all figured out. When it comes to my truck, that's different. I have a 2000 chevy silverado single cab shortbed 4x4. It has a 4.8 liter vortec v8, with a 4 speed automatic. The stereo is how I want it, pretty much the truck is how I want it except it sits like it's 2 wheel drive. I want at least a 33" mud terrain under it. I read that this could be achieved with a simple leveling kit that cranks the torsion arms. I don't want the tires to look stuffed under it though, but a complete suspension lift kit is big bucks and a real lot of work.
I like the power the truck has, and I get about 17 mpg with it.
My other option is buy my friends truck which is a 1972 chevy 4x4 shortbed, original 350 v8, with a 3 speed on the column. I love that truck, but it'll suck on gas mileage, especially with a 4" suspension lift and 33" tires. It's also carburated, so it won't be as dependable as my fuel injected LS motor'd 2000.
A 4" suspension lift on a '72 chevy pickup costs like $500, and 33" tires for 15" rims are fairly inexpensive. A 4" suspension lift for my 2000 silverado costs like $1800 and 33" tires for my 17" rims are like $260 a piece. So there's 3 grand right there if I stick with the new.
Opinions?
I like the power the truck has, and I get about 17 mpg with it.
My other option is buy my friends truck which is a 1972 chevy 4x4 shortbed, original 350 v8, with a 3 speed on the column. I love that truck, but it'll suck on gas mileage, especially with a 4" suspension lift and 33" tires. It's also carburated, so it won't be as dependable as my fuel injected LS motor'd 2000.
A 4" suspension lift on a '72 chevy pickup costs like $500, and 33" tires for 15" rims are fairly inexpensive. A 4" suspension lift for my 2000 silverado costs like $1800 and 33" tires for my 17" rims are like $260 a piece. So there's 3 grand right there if I stick with the new.
Opinions?
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10-26-2010, 08:16 AM
#6
From what I understand from the 4x4 crowd, the trend is to keep the truck lower to the ground but stuff as large a tire as will fit or will suit your needs. The look of a lot of space between the tire and fender is less popular.
I guess it comes from the rock crawling movement, where a lower center of gravity performs much better. I got the info recently because I have Jeep fever, and I have picked up a few mags to dream about it.
The point I am trying to make, is spend the money on wheels and tires, and spend just enough money on suspension to make them fit.
I guess it comes from the rock crawling movement, where a lower center of gravity performs much better. I got the info recently because I have Jeep fever, and I have picked up a few mags to dream about it.
The point I am trying to make, is spend the money on wheels and tires, and spend just enough money on suspension to make them fit.
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10-26-2010, 08:25 AM
#7
If I didn't already have a truck, I would probably pick the '72 over the '00.
Older trucks just have way more character than any of the newer ones. The body lines of older trucks look way more aggressive and beefy than most newer ones. Not to mention that back then they were really "built to last".
Plus when it comes to fixing things on them, overall, price and labor wise, its easier than any of the newer ones on the road that are filled with electronics and plastic covers.
All of our trucks at the shop are '86-'88 Chevy high sierras. Over the past 20+ years these things have been on the road 6 days a week, all the **** over CT and NY, and get us up some driveways that someone in a normal 4x4 would probably be scared to go up. Plus the weight that we put in them on a day to day basis, between forms and steel, is pretty ridiculous.
Sure they're old and don't look as fancy as all the guys running around in new trucks, but our's have paid for themselves 1000x by now, insurance is cheap, and they guys can beat on them (cause you know they will) without much repercussion. And even then, they are easy enough to fix and parts are usually just a call a way and pretty cheap.
Seeing that you already have a truck that you seem to like, and its yours, I would probably just stick with that. Unless you just need that old school feel and like the look of that truck, then I would say go for it. No 2000 silverado has the same kind of character or story behind it like a 1972 has.
Older trucks just have way more character than any of the newer ones. The body lines of older trucks look way more aggressive and beefy than most newer ones. Not to mention that back then they were really "built to last".
Plus when it comes to fixing things on them, overall, price and labor wise, its easier than any of the newer ones on the road that are filled with electronics and plastic covers.
All of our trucks at the shop are '86-'88 Chevy high sierras. Over the past 20+ years these things have been on the road 6 days a week, all the **** over CT and NY, and get us up some driveways that someone in a normal 4x4 would probably be scared to go up. Plus the weight that we put in them on a day to day basis, between forms and steel, is pretty ridiculous.
Sure they're old and don't look as fancy as all the guys running around in new trucks, but our's have paid for themselves 1000x by now, insurance is cheap, and they guys can beat on them (cause you know they will) without much repercussion. And even then, they are easy enough to fix and parts are usually just a call a way and pretty cheap.
Seeing that you already have a truck that you seem to like, and its yours, I would probably just stick with that. Unless you just need that old school feel and like the look of that truck, then I would say go for it. No 2000 silverado has the same kind of character or story behind it like a 1972 has.
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10-26-2010, 09:12 AM
#8
Also keep in mind that your creature comforts are surely much better in the 2000. Also don't forget that safety in a 70's light truck was almost nonexistent. Sure, they were built solid. Problem was, in a crash the truck would be fine and you'd bs splattered in the inside of it. Crumple zones and airbags are nothing to sneeze at.
Of course this is coming from someone who souped up a Miata to have twice the factory hp and removed the airbag, so I say this with no small amount of hypocrisy. Lol.
Of course this is coming from someone who souped up a Miata to have twice the factory hp and removed the airbag, so I say this with no small amount of hypocrisy. Lol.
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10-26-2010, 10:45 AM
#9
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My problem is, I used to have a 1969 chevy blazer that had a 4" suspension lift with 33" tires. I loved that ride height, it was great in the mud, but damn did it suck in the snow. The thing would spin out like you wouldn't understand. My 2000 has IFS, and it seems to handle like my 1988 Trans Am GTA did. My wife loves my truck, partially cause it has comfort and safety, and it's automatic, which means that she can drive it. I loved my blazer, but it was cold in the winter (mostly cause it had a soft top) and I'm not sure if it even had seat belts. I think I liked it cause I was 18 and it was cool. Now I'm 29 and I think I really just need something that comprimises comfort and safety with newer technology.
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Snow Tires + LSD
10-26-2010, 06:49 PM
#13
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Cause the truck is awesome, but awesome also means that I'll have to sacrifice comfort and dependability and all that. I guess I'll stick with my 2000 and be happy. Maybe I'll just buy the '72 anyway and keep it as another toy that I don't really need.
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10-26-2010, 07:18 PM
#14
You buy the truck and let me use it for the winter, and I'll take really good care of it and ship it back to you once the spring is here. Then you can play with it.
What say?
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10-26-2010, 09:14 PM
#15
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I'll let you permanently borrow my 2000 for a nonrefundable deposit of $10000. That's a steal. New heads, new 3" dual exhaust, rhino liner, new tranny, you can't beat that deal!
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10-26-2010, 11:44 PM
#17
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Keep the new one. It will be less problems and will give you more time to tinker with the miata.
Id be really surprised if you couldnt fit 33s if you level it out. Be careful leveling it out by cranking the keys though its harder on all the front end parts.
Also I'm assuming you are quoting 260 a tire for a flotation tire (standard system measuring, for example 33x12.50x25), so Im guessing you are looking up prices for 33x12.50x17s, and if so that would be the reason you are seeing such high prices.
Dont look up floatation tires for 17s unless your doing a special fitment, just shop for some 285/70/17s, Ive fit those on almost every stock fullsize 4x4 there is and they are almost a 33 (32.7 IIRC), plus cheap and plentiful. Some makers also make a 295/70/17 (Nitto for one) and then if you could fit them the 305/70s (which are pretty high but normally cheaper than 33/12.50/17s.
The new one has all the creature comforts and maintenance is still dirt cheap, I am a firm believer that Full size chevy trucks are close to if not the cheapest car to maintain. They are easy to work on and parts are cheap as hell.
Dont get yourself into having to big projects cause then you have problems getting either of them done, or atleast I do.
97Z28 vs 91 S10 Blazer (Completely rhino lined, 5" lift, offroad rig)
Id be really surprised if you couldnt fit 33s if you level it out. Be careful leveling it out by cranking the keys though its harder on all the front end parts.
Also I'm assuming you are quoting 260 a tire for a flotation tire (standard system measuring, for example 33x12.50x25), so Im guessing you are looking up prices for 33x12.50x17s, and if so that would be the reason you are seeing such high prices.
Dont look up floatation tires for 17s unless your doing a special fitment, just shop for some 285/70/17s, Ive fit those on almost every stock fullsize 4x4 there is and they are almost a 33 (32.7 IIRC), plus cheap and plentiful. Some makers also make a 295/70/17 (Nitto for one) and then if you could fit them the 305/70s (which are pretty high but normally cheaper than 33/12.50/17s.
The new one has all the creature comforts and maintenance is still dirt cheap, I am a firm believer that Full size chevy trucks are close to if not the cheapest car to maintain. They are easy to work on and parts are cheap as hell.
Dont get yourself into having to big projects cause then you have problems getting either of them done, or atleast I do.
97Z28 vs 91 S10 Blazer (Completely rhino lined, 5" lift, offroad rig)
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