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06-03-2013, 01:03 AM
#21
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Two of my close friends have/had these and I run around with a bunch of guys that have them.
They have a lot of common problems. I would strongly recommend registering on LS1GTO.com and going through the stickies and becoming acquainted with their issues.
Dont buy a Hurst shifter, hurst had big problems with them. When my buddy called to source some parts to service his, the Hurst rep said "Oh one of those GTO shifters. Tell me what parts you need and give me an address, and Ill ship them out." No questions asked or anything.
Let me show you the problem
The base that the shifter handle goes into has a plastic cup with another plastic cup inside it. Im not sure if its for feel or stability but the plastic wears out very quickly and the expense *** shifter feels like **** pretty quick.
If they dont wear out, you mar the **** out of the plastic and then it gets stuck.
Guys have had the cups remachined out of metals and had good results, and on newer ones they have re-greased the assembly and had better longevity
Hurst for the camaros is awesome, not so much for the goat.
Make sure the back window is nice and dark or the back seats will split.
If you want power and economy Id recommend a tune. The stock LS2 tune is pretty bad and both friends got nice gains in power and economy with a tune. If you plan on doing the rest of the bolt ons you may want to wait and do it all at once though to get the most out of it. LSxs see big gains from a good Long tube header on almost all platforms.
They have a lot of common problems. I would strongly recommend registering on LS1GTO.com and going through the stickies and becoming acquainted with their issues.
Dont buy a Hurst shifter, hurst had big problems with them. When my buddy called to source some parts to service his, the Hurst rep said "Oh one of those GTO shifters. Tell me what parts you need and give me an address, and Ill ship them out." No questions asked or anything.
Let me show you the problem
The base that the shifter handle goes into has a plastic cup with another plastic cup inside it. Im not sure if its for feel or stability but the plastic wears out very quickly and the expense *** shifter feels like **** pretty quick.
If they dont wear out, you mar the **** out of the plastic and then it gets stuck.
Guys have had the cups remachined out of metals and had good results, and on newer ones they have re-greased the assembly and had better longevity
Hurst for the camaros is awesome, not so much for the goat.
Make sure the back window is nice and dark or the back seats will split.
If you want power and economy Id recommend a tune. The stock LS2 tune is pretty bad and both friends got nice gains in power and economy with a tune. If you plan on doing the rest of the bolt ons you may want to wait and do it all at once though to get the most out of it. LSxs see big gains from a good Long tube header on almost all platforms.
I honestly don't feel the need for more power now, but I certainly wouldn't complain about better economy. I am registered on GTOforums.com but will check out ls1gto.com as well.
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06-03-2013, 01:23 AM
#23
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Thanks for the info. To clarify, all the issues listed above are for the Hurst shifter correct? I don't plan to change the shifter out for some time, but now I know that if I do, I should avoid the Hurst! Good to know.
I honestly don't feel the need for more power now, but I certainly wouldn't complain about better economy. I am registered on GTOforums.com but will check out ls1gto.com as well.
I honestly don't feel the need for more power now, but I certainly wouldn't complain about better economy. I am registered on GTOforums.com but will check out ls1gto.com as well.
Also dont lock your steering wheel when you park, It can lead to accelerated wear in the lock cylinder housing. The cars have a problem with wear on the housing, that causes the key to just not turn one day, many times without warning. 2 wears and causes 1 to bind.
GMpartshouse sells an updated part, notice the change in shape of the area marked 2 on the 1st pic.
After seeing the hassle this caused both friends I would install updated parts as preventative maintenance.
When my friend had his 1st fail he got a GM at the dealer (not updated part) and it failed again 2 weeks later. He ended up doing it 3 or 4 times before modifying a new one to look like the updated part (we didnt know about the updated part at the time.)
Also start preparing to replace the suspension bushings. They are pretty much all trash, along with the front struts. Check for strut rub to.
Once you get one sorted they are awesome cars though.
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06-03-2013, 11:31 AM
#27
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Haha! Indeed, and its still like 1000 pounds lighter and will soon be producing roughly the same HP. Damn.
Hmm... I could go African theme... Rhino? They're fat but tough... Hippo isn't very flattering and elephant is way too long... Dumbo?
Hmm... I could go African theme... Rhino? They're fat but tough... Hippo isn't very flattering and elephant is way too long... Dumbo?
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06-03-2013, 11:55 AM
#28
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One of my old friends had a GTO and all he could talk about was the GTO TAX on every damn part he needed. He would laugh at the markup there was on anything labeled for the GTO versus the stock LS part.
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06-03-2013, 12:45 PM
#30
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If you insist on using one of those, please use Zeus and leave the Æsir out of it. The Marvel character is bad enough.
Donk fits all the bills: it's Australian slang, it references the engine (which is one of the best features of the car), and in America it could be a reference to a fat *** - usually in a positive light.
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06-03-2013, 01:06 PM
#31
Lots of activity here. We're all excited about your new car!!
Wholeheartedly agree with getting on the type-specific forums. I've had surprising issues with the G8 (like, complete cam and lifter replacement under warranty!!). Being on the forums means I was alert to what the issues were and prepared when making warranty claims.
Someone also mentioned tune and headers. True enough. If you keep the mods light, you can just buy an inexpensive "canned" tune, like a Diablosport or Cortex. I see them all the time on Craigslist (make sure they are unlocked -- favorite theft item). Once you go long tube headers, you'll be looking at a custom tune. Worth it either way. You will gain MPG with the tune. On G8's, the intake is particularly poor. Not sure if it's the same with the GTO.
You really should reconsider Donk. It's what you're going to do to Mustangs after all. Would make a great license plate, and NOBODY messes with a toothless Rugby player named Donk, not even Zeus.
Here's one for you . . . which car is heavier?
2009 Pontiac G8 GT with 6.0:
1966 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible with "Super Commando" 383:
Wholeheartedly agree with getting on the type-specific forums. I've had surprising issues with the G8 (like, complete cam and lifter replacement under warranty!!). Being on the forums means I was alert to what the issues were and prepared when making warranty claims.
Someone also mentioned tune and headers. True enough. If you keep the mods light, you can just buy an inexpensive "canned" tune, like a Diablosport or Cortex. I see them all the time on Craigslist (make sure they are unlocked -- favorite theft item). Once you go long tube headers, you'll be looking at a custom tune. Worth it either way. You will gain MPG with the tune. On G8's, the intake is particularly poor. Not sure if it's the same with the GTO.
You really should reconsider Donk. It's what you're going to do to Mustangs after all. Would make a great license plate, and NOBODY messes with a toothless Rugby player named Donk, not even Zeus.
Here's one for you . . . which car is heavier?
2009 Pontiac G8 GT with 6.0:
1966 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible with "Super Commando" 383:
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06-03-2013, 01:08 PM
#32
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Corvette's are at least made in the US. He was always bitching about parts coming from Australia and ****. Really I just ignored him for the most part because the car was just MEH to me.
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06-03-2013, 05:38 PM
#33
CGM is Cyclone Grey Metallic
Mine was an 06. Bought in 09, sold in '12. The car was absolutely perfect, still smelled new inside. Came with the 18" wheels, picked up a set of 17" during ownership. Only mods were shifter, Magnaflow catback, and Kenwood stereo. I kept all the original parts and sold them along with the car, including a spare front bumper I purchased (originally planning on keeping the car forever, thought with such a limited production, better stock up on potential consumable parts). Sold the car with everything included for $18k.
For shifters, I always read Billet Pro was #1, followed by the GMM Ripper Shifters. Mind blowingly expensive compared to anything Miata, but dear god does it help the car.
Trunk is tiny because of US crash regulations and GM had to move the gas tank further into the car. If you remove the back wall carpet you will see a removable metal brace that shields the gas tank (the gas tank is in between the rear seats and the trunk space).
The Holden had the gas tank down below where the spare tire is on the car, giving an enormous amount of trunk space. You'll notice in pictures the gas cap location difference between the GTO and he Holden.
Mine was an 06. Bought in 09, sold in '12. The car was absolutely perfect, still smelled new inside. Came with the 18" wheels, picked up a set of 17" during ownership. Only mods were shifter, Magnaflow catback, and Kenwood stereo. I kept all the original parts and sold them along with the car, including a spare front bumper I purchased (originally planning on keeping the car forever, thought with such a limited production, better stock up on potential consumable parts). Sold the car with everything included for $18k.
For shifters, I always read Billet Pro was #1, followed by the GMM Ripper Shifters. Mind blowingly expensive compared to anything Miata, but dear god does it help the car.
Trunk is tiny because of US crash regulations and GM had to move the gas tank further into the car. If you remove the back wall carpet you will see a removable metal brace that shields the gas tank (the gas tank is in between the rear seats and the trunk space).
The Holden had the gas tank down below where the spare tire is on the car, giving an enormous amount of trunk space. You'll notice in pictures the gas cap location difference between the GTO and he Holden.
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06-03-2013, 06:01 PM
#35
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I'm curious about this as well. I had a friend with one that was cammed with a 150 shot that ran 10's. The thing was a ******* pig to drive, and was slow as **** off the bottle (read 1.6 stock motor turbo miata is faster).
Was a sick drag car though.
Was a sick drag car though.
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06-03-2013, 07:14 PM
#36
There are air bags in every nook and cranny.
Lots of structure behind the bumpers and in the doors for side-impact. Some of that may have stiffness benefit though.
G8 has a double-pane windshield. GTO too?
Etc.
Corvette is also much heavier than it should be.
Fury, as big as it is and including the ragtop triple-frame, is still about 200#'s lighter than the G8.
Makes me doubt we could actually put a man on the moon anymore. Too risk averse/pansified.
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06-03-2013, 09:06 PM
#37
Yeah the vettes are porkers at 3300lb and having gone over the whole car the only thing I can see contributing much to the weight is the frame, engine, brakes, and trans. Everything else is actually either plastic or fiberglass and very light.
But 3700......wow
And don't get me started on the 4200 camaros, challengers, 300c's, etc. I don't even comprehend
But 3700......wow
And don't get me started on the 4200 camaros, challengers, 300c's, etc. I don't even comprehend
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06-06-2013, 12:09 AM
#38
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The other day I typed up a full response here on my cell phone (most of my posts are done on my phone) and the damn thing deleted it so I was pissed and didn't try again for a few days.
I freaking love those 18" stock wheels.
Karter your car was gorgeous. And at 18k it was a bargain with all the mods you had. I only paid $11k for this car though, and even though it's not perfect, that was the absolute most I could afford and ohhh I love driving it.
They weighed it for some reason for the safety inspection today and the total came out to just under 3900 lbs with 3/4 tank of fuel... and a case of bottled water and a gallon of distilled water in the trunk, hehe. That's just... unacceptable.
So my first goal with the car (besides the bit of reconditioning from sun damage) will be weight reduction. I'll do the things that cost less first, and go from there.
Couple things: There's an x-brace behind the gas tank. Many say it's not important, and weighs like 35 pounds. There's also some other brace (v-brace, y brace, something like that) that supposedly weighs another 15. I need to research this more because I want to make sure I'm not significantly hampering the structural rigidity... but assuming I'm not, that's 50 pounds.
Beyond that, I'll just have to look and see. I don't how how difficult the carpet is to get up and remove some of the sound deadening. I'll research how heavy the muffler is.
The stock wheels are friggin' 26 lbs apiece
.
I wish I could buy some 6ULs for this thing. Would save up and do it, no question. Since I can't, I'll be searching for new wheels. Will want to stay with 17x8 or 17x9. On a tight budget, so nothing exotic. This purchase will be a year ahead, at least, so I have plenty of time for research. Assuming I can get a 16 pound wheel, that's another 40 pounds and it's unsprung weight! Hoping I could save 20 pounds off the muffler/exhaust, I'm at 110 pounds saved with that stuff.
Found these on TireRack and I kinda like them but I think I'd want to step up to 17x9... I would like them to fit a little more flush with the fenders. I suppose that could also be accomplished with a spacer or different offset though. Dunno. 18.6 pounds, $142 apiece. I actually really like the Drag DR-37s from Discount Tire, but they are 21.5 lbs apiece. Bleh.
Taking the case of water out the back would help. Tee hee.
I freaking love those 18" stock wheels.
Karter your car was gorgeous. And at 18k it was a bargain with all the mods you had. I only paid $11k for this car though, and even though it's not perfect, that was the absolute most I could afford and ohhh I love driving it.
They weighed it for some reason for the safety inspection today and the total came out to just under 3900 lbs with 3/4 tank of fuel... and a case of bottled water and a gallon of distilled water in the trunk, hehe. That's just... unacceptable.
So my first goal with the car (besides the bit of reconditioning from sun damage) will be weight reduction. I'll do the things that cost less first, and go from there.
Couple things: There's an x-brace behind the gas tank. Many say it's not important, and weighs like 35 pounds. There's also some other brace (v-brace, y brace, something like that) that supposedly weighs another 15. I need to research this more because I want to make sure I'm not significantly hampering the structural rigidity... but assuming I'm not, that's 50 pounds.
Beyond that, I'll just have to look and see. I don't how how difficult the carpet is to get up and remove some of the sound deadening. I'll research how heavy the muffler is.
The stock wheels are friggin' 26 lbs apiece
.I wish I could buy some 6ULs for this thing. Would save up and do it, no question. Since I can't, I'll be searching for new wheels. Will want to stay with 17x8 or 17x9. On a tight budget, so nothing exotic. This purchase will be a year ahead, at least, so I have plenty of time for research. Assuming I can get a 16 pound wheel, that's another 40 pounds and it's unsprung weight! Hoping I could save 20 pounds off the muffler/exhaust, I'm at 110 pounds saved with that stuff.
Found these on TireRack and I kinda like them but I think I'd want to step up to 17x9... I would like them to fit a little more flush with the fenders. I suppose that could also be accomplished with a spacer or different offset though. Dunno. 18.6 pounds, $142 apiece. I actually really like the Drag DR-37s from Discount Tire, but they are 21.5 lbs apiece. Bleh.
Taking the case of water out the back would help. Tee hee.
Last edited by turbofan; 06-06-2013 at 12:21 AM. Reason: add wheel info
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