ldp82

Hi all, my name is Luke and I have been building auto-xing and tracking my 1996 miata. I typically run with PCA and want a little more power to deal with the 993 and on 911’s. I’m a student and don’t have a ton of cash so the Begi-s set up is looking very attractive!

I have a few questions. i want to avoid overheating issues so I plan on doing the following:
Gs radiator and slim fans (thanks to this forum)
Coolent reroute
Devils own water injection*
Oil cooler
Braided lines to better deal with the heat
02 clamp
bipes
*change to meth when I go to MS ecu add ’01 injectors or bigger
will this be enough?

my other question is if possible should I look at different wheels or housing for the turbo? From what I understand this will help with keeping things cool but delay spool. I’m not looking at making huge power I think 175-200 whp would be a great my priority is reliable power.

My other question is on ECU’s I want to run the stock one in drone mode so I can pass emission (here in MA they just plug into the OBD2 port no looking under the hood) I have heard rumor that this will be possible with MS do you guys have any information on something that could help me. Ive done some searching on this but need to be pointed in the right direction.

Thanks in advance for the help, here is what ive done to the car so far. Sorry for any typos its about 50 deg in my apartment at the moment and its making typing and thinking difficult.

ISC Racing spherical bearings and delrin bushings
Ground Control coilovers 600/425 lbs/inch front/rear
Fat Cat Motorsports shocks liner pistons custom valved for my spring rate
Fat Cat Motorsports NB front shock tower mounts with isolators (front)
Fat cat Motorsports bump stops
Over clocked ECU for higher redline (on a switch with stock crystal)
Mazda Motorsports motor mounts (rubber, 40% stiffer then stock)
Mazda Motorsports differential mounts (rubber, 40% stiffer then stock)
Swapped from a stock ratio of 4.10:1 to a 4.30:1 ring set in the Torsen rear end
Converted to non-power steering rack removed all power steering equipment
LE tie rod ends to help eliminate bump steer
SSR competition 15x 7.5, 43mm offset, 10lbs
Hankook RS-2’s 205/50/15 tires (switching to RA-1’s)
Exedy clutch
Flyin Miata rear shock tower mounts upgraded with Fat Cat bump stops
Flyin Miata frame rail brace
Flyin Miata light weight flywheel 9 LBS
Flyin Miata brake upgrade kit, braided lines: modded with Carbotech xp10, xp8 track pads , ATE super blue
Tilton adjustable brake proportioning mounted in cabin
AWR front sway bar brackets
Gear Heads Garage spherical endlinks
Racing Beat front tubular sway bar 1 ½ NB (no rear bar)
Racing Beat cat back
Racing Beat front lower control arm brace
Racing Beat ULTRA ignition wires
Cowl cold air intake
Hard Dog m2 4 point roll bar with Custom Formed High Density Padding and cover
Timing advanced to +14btdc
Redline fluids in transmission and rear
Sparco pedals
Hard top with bolt down kit
Removed soft top
2.5lbs Fire extinguisher

Maintenance items done winter 2006-2007 (76,xxx miles):
New alignment (cam) bolts
New upper control arms for the upper ball joints
New lower ball joints
New master cylinder
Fully rebuilt differential
New hubs and carriers
New axles
Assorted pulleys and belts to properly remove the power steering pump
Converted FM mounts FCM mounts and the ground controls for the new shocks
New rotors
Westco battery (sealed)

Parts that I have but have not had time to install
g-force 6 point harnesses
momo cup seat
hard dog door bars
hard dog harness bar
still need to buy one more seat

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you'd probably be a good candidate for someone would who simply ask for a 2560 over a 2554 provide.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

looks good to me yes MS can be done parralel. Why change to meth just run a mix, and you get the best results. since you will have a IC i gues i would aim for 12-15% of your totall fuel flow or basically the flow of 1/2 of1 injector. + If you are smart enough to clock your ecu then you can do MS.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

see my MS how-to page.

upgrading to '01 injectors would acutally be a downgrade, what you'd really do is sell the FMU, fuel pump, bipes & o2 clamp and buy 460cc injectors and MS with leftover.


Since you're not going to be using a FMIC, I'd also suggest the larger radiator and reroute is overkill.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Nice setup man. Megasquirt for the win.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

For being a poor student you sure have alot of mods done to the car. You must not have a girlfriend.
+1 for MS.
Considering you chose to swap from the nicer 4.10 to a lamer 4.30 you will be fine with the GT25 series turbo in stock form, they're good up to around 250hp i believe.

reddroptop

iTrader: (4)

I am a poor ******* student (3rd year CS) no gf too, and I make 900$ a month, and even I can't afford 2k SSR wheels. Plus a WHOLE bunch of **** on that car.

Poor student my ***.

cardriverx

iTrader: (12)

+1 times 50

ldp82

the car has been an ongoing project for the past 4-5 years. i bought the SSR wheels used from a friend for a song, the seat i bought for 160... i do have a gf shes great and very supportive of my addiction (lets me keep the apt cold, not go out much on weekends and not travel often to save $.)

i changed the rear end when i was building an ITA car but i quickly found out i dont have the $ to race at this point in my life.

Braineack, i will be using an IC when i up the boost. i should be able to get the turbo kit but will not have any money left over after that. The plan is to run the kit in stock form for a year or 2 then when i have the $ switch to MS + IC + more boost, i need to do more research but running it boomslang looks good.

thanks for the tips and welcoming

cardriverx

iTrader: (12)

alright then this is how id do it.

get begi-S

run untill you have the money for an intercooler (could use stripes pipes), bipes, and 02 clamp

get some 305cc injectors

adjust boost to about 10 psi, and enjoy.

then worry about MS and the other stuff.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I see stock 1.8's who run water with no coolant overheat at the track in the summer. My 1.6 does not with the auto radiator, but my buddies car's have on occasion.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Nice suspension mods too. I bet that's a fun ride at the track.

Markp

Luke,

Megasquirt and the BEGi-S kit with the 2554R sounds like a decent choice. You are doing both Track and Auto-Xing. If it was Auto-x only I would suggest a supercharger but given the dual purpose nature of the car, the turbo is the better choice.

Mark

ldp82

i'm still dialing the car in but it is a lot of fun on the track. i can real in/keep up with any one till we get the a straight away then they keep going and the miata just makes more noise

one of the PCA guys bought a spec miata and dropped an FM-2 in with link ecu. the car has had a lot of over heating issues.

i figure i cant run meth with the stock ECU but a little bit of water should keep things cooler and i can always add toluene to the gas for track days.

Mark i do a lot more track days then auto-x was thinking of going with a blower but think the turbo will be better for track driving

thanks again for all the information i think everything is starting to fall in to place.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

sounds like you are on the right track...i did suspension first and now prepping for turbo, if you have the skill/time i would just piece together myo own kit...keep looking around before you make up your mind, there are lots of factors to consider prior to boosting
gl in your build

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'm worried about water temp too. I'm worried I'll have to cut holes in the bumper for cooling. Whatever it takes. All the turbo SM cars in Dallas suffer from overheating.