vehicular

iTrader: (3)

100hp wet noodle.

golftdibrad

70hp.





compression is low, dont know why. My latest theory is bad cam timing, but there is no way to check it without splitting the case it seems.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Replace it with a VTEC motor?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

If you want gobs of torque get an EJ in there.
If you want a decent n/a screamer get the k20 in there.

I'd go with a liter bike motor. All around win

Tekel

iTrader: (2)

Ohhhh, DO WANT (subie model)! Its like an affordable atom.

Sucks about your engine woes. Crazy that it was that fast and that much fun with only pushing out 70hp.

golftdibrad

wont fit.

The future...I see it.... Seriously in a few years this is happening, or another BEC.

Yes. Still stumped, going to get an inspection mirror to see if i cant scope the timing marks. If they are lined up at at a loss. Might just get a turn-key and run around with 100 hp.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I don't have any first-hand experience with the T4, but it seems like removing the oil pump should at least give you "some" visibility into the area of interest.


Just as an FYI, if you're serious about wanting to get rid of the VW engine, Danny has a Subaru engine sitting at his shop which already has the bellhousing adapter, flywheel and clutch needed to mate it with the Porsche transaxle. It's technically mine (I bought a Forester turbo, stripped it, and sent him the motor) although I sort of lost interest in the project after that. I have no real use for the engine, and Danny wants it out of his shop, so let me know if you're interested.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Get the thubaru motor. Seriously. Do it. That EJ257 will have so much grunt you'll be replacing the rear tires every weekend.
I can even tune it for you

golftdibrad

I talked to him about it, didn't know it was yours. If I did do a subbie swap i'd dump the 901 trans-axle; it would last about a day with all that torque. Plus I'd have to add cooling and all that.... not right now. Thanks for the heads up though.

As stated above, more worried about transmissions, especially if not using the Subaru unit.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Hmm. I've heard of others running this engine / tranny combo with no problems, but whatever.

I have the transmission from the Forester still sitting in my garage, if you want that as well.

golftdibrad

In the future that may be an option.

I think the reason most people dont have problems is there are aircooled vw whenies. They get on it like once and go "oh its fast" then putt around on the weekends bragging about gas mileage.

I RACE and drive the crap out my cars. The golf tdi of my name sake has lost an transmission and more than one wheel bearing from autocross. My 87 cabriolet? Exploded a transmission racing.

Porsche rated that gearbox for like 150 ftlbs of torque, and people that race them in 914's with less torque than that still have issues.


Clifs: If I swap engines all vw foolishness will be removed. (except cv's...maybe)

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

How much does the car weigh? 1700?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

It better weigh way less than that. I'd guess just a bit over 1k

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

My point about the weight is, the less it weighs the less stress the drive train has. But I get the idea that OP doesn't want the subi stuff right now anyway.

golftdibrad

1500 when i got it. almost on the nose; it was like 1498 one time and 1480ish another

It has lot of stuff that is coming out.... a stereo with amp and sub. Never start battery. Once I get it back together I'll weight it again.. get a light (and more importantly, sealed) battery. Goal is under 1400 wet.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Buy a Ballistic 16 cell. It will start a 120+ cubic inch Harley big twin. That Type 4 will be a breeze for it. They're not cheap, but they weigh <3.5 lbs. As a bonus, they lose only a minuscule amount of charge over a year of sitting, so sitting for a month between opportunities to drive this thing won't hurt it at all as long as you don't have a drain in the system.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

On their website they offer subbie engine also next to the one u got. They make it seem like its the same chassis just different mounts.

golftdibrad

thanks for the tip

Trust me, it would involve a cutoff wheel and welding. If I go that route I'd rather a high revving engine.

golftdibrad

So, update time. Turns out that the deck is supossed to be less than .060". Even with the large deck, static CR was 7.6:1. A good fellow over on shoptalkfourms measured is stock jugs, and what ya know, mine were 2.2mm longer. This also may have been throwing off something called valve geometry, and while I'm sure there is something to it its not where the power was, the power was missing from the big cam and high deck.

SO, the plan is to shave 0.105" off the bottom of the jugs, brinigng deck to about .055". Static cr of 9.8:1. dynamic will be 7.8:1. The stock 2.0l was 7.4:1. I will run premium fuel. If it becomes an issue, electronic timing. If it cooks, so be it. I'll either get new heads at that point (the likely failure point) or do a different engine.

So, while its all apart I've been doing some other work.


30+ pounds of not useful things gone....

Now.... I need a 'glovebox'. I have the old DIN blank from my golf....so this car will always have a lil dub in it.

trimmed up, not to seal those holes...



used some 3m spray glue, and its laminated. Light and locost. Little message there too



Big enough for a fish.



With that amp out the way I can properly mount the MSD box.
[commercial voice]MSD stands for MULTIPLE SPARK DISCHARGE[\commercial voice]





poking around the rear.... look what I find.




would anyone care to venture what type of fluid that carries?


The parking brake has me stumped. Once its back on the road I'll figure something out.

With some luck, motor goes back together Saturday. Maybe in Sunday.

-Brad

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

What do you mean, the parking brake has you stumped? It doesn't have one, or the one on it sucks?