Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I put in my LC1 last week and didnt have a chance to drive the car because when I got done it was late. The first day I put it in though, I had to redo the free air calibration several times. Once because I took it in the house to update firmware. Then I did it once again because I thought I had forgotten to plug the sensor back in and turned the car on without it. But I know for a fact I did it several times for no apparent reason.

Last night I turn my car on and the sensor is getting no readings once again. I pull the sensor out, this time unplug the sensor and let it reset its calibration. I perform a new heater calibration, and a new free air calibration. I put the sensor back in the car, start the car and no problems it works like a charm.

I go for a drive and the drive was going perfect. I decided to make a test. I pull the car over to the side of the road, shut it down, let it sit for 30 seconds, and restart the car. Once again the sensor is gone, shows full lean.

Currently I have the system ground for it running to a wire that runs back to the block and the megasquirt. Heater ground is connected to the bracket that holds the cruise control.

The bolt and washer that I used for the heater ground was sanded for a good contact. I even connected the calibration LED to it to make sure its connected.

First question. Because the LC1 heater ground is not in the same spot as the system ground, could this be the cause of my problems?

I read the LC1 manual cover to cover at least 20 times now. On page 11 section 5.4 titled "Multi Channel AFR Recording with Multiple LC1/LM1". Big bold letters "The First LC1 in the chain must have its serial IN plugged with terminator plug".

Second Question. If I am running only 1 LC1, does the terminator still have to be there?


As of right now the LC1 works once and only after a free air calibration.

I called Innovate, talked to Felipe and he said to put the grounds in one spot.But a part of me still doesnt believe that it forgetting the calibration is the product of the heater ground not being attached in the same spot as the system ground.

Ill go home and try both, but if this doesnt work, what else could it be other then a faulty unit.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

my lc1 would loose its calibration randomly when I had a bad heater ground

yes, RTFM

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I did RTFM like 20 times. I have only one main concern, and that is, will the MS be OK with the "heater ground" on the same line as one of its grounds even though one end terminates at the block?

It also makes no sense how it can lose heater ground just like that, especially if it works for one start up.

miataspeed1point6

iTrader: (1)

This sounds sort of like what mine was doing a while ago. The terminator does still need to be there. My problem was I had the cables looped.

Do you have the diagnostic LED hooked up? If you do, is it blinking a code? Are you sure the sensor has the right voltage output to your gauge? How long do you wait to start the car? If I wait too long my gauge will read full rich.

Not sure how much that helps, but your problem might be the terminator.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I found your thread incidentally. I saw you had yours looped.

Today when I called innovate they told me the terminator is only for programming, but I will insert it anyway. That and centralize both of the grounds on the block. Hope that solves the issue.

I have the LED connected and there are no codes. It blinks for the warmup, and then its steady. I wait maybe 5 seconds before I start the car.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

the terminator is NOT for programming. it effects how the unit starts up. it's in the manual like 5 times and in the quick setup guide.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

NO WAY.

Please for the love of god, quote the manual and show me what page and section it says that it has to be plugged in when running alone. Even the tech guy told me it doesnt have to be in if its alone.

Either way. I think the problem is solved. I grounded the system and heater ground to the braided cable behind the engine and also connected the megasquirt ground to that point.

I dont know which fixed it but all i know is that I turned the car on and off and it remembered its own name.

Crisis averted.