rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

I need some powder and primers to go with the .223 samnavy convinced me to buy. What is a good deal right now? Ordered my tumbler this morning...

shooterschmidty

A good deal on a powder suitable for reloading .223 is any suitable powder you can find in stock for whatever they're asking for it. .223 suitable powders have been very difficult to find for the last couple of years. That being said, Powder Valley Inc is one of my preferred powder websites, just be aware of hazardous material shipping fees.

Do you have a reloading guide? That's your first step. You need to look up what powders are suitable for the loads that you're interested in. Common choices for .223 are H335, Accurate 2230, Varget, RE-15, Ramshot Tac and many others depending on what you're trying to do. I'd recommend buying the Lyman reloading manual as they are powder/bullet/primer manufacturer agnostic. You can also check powder and bullet manufacturers websites for "recipes", but be sure to cross check any load with other sources to make sure it's safe.

Do you have the rest of your reloading equipment?

I think I mentioned this before when you were asking about reloading previously, but in my opinion and experience, it makes no financial sense to reload .223, especially if your time is worth anything and since you can find loaded ammo on the shelf easily. The exceptions are a) if you're loading, and need, match grade ammo, b) you're loading premium bullets for hunting like Barnes TTSX, Nosler Accubond, VLDs, ect or c) you're trying to load very heavy for caliber bullets for long range shooting.

Good luck.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Nope, no reloading guide. I should have mentioned that I have a friend who reloads and have access to his equipment. I want to bring my clean brass, bullets and powder/primer to him one afternoon and make a few rounds. So, I need to find some powder/primer before I give him a visit.

shooterschmidty

Borrow his guide in advance so you can look up what you'd like to load. Alternatively, ask him what you should buy. It won't work out well to just bring some random brass, bullets and powder and then try to find a load that they'll work with after the fact. If he's an experienced reloader he should be able to tell you what to bring, if he isn't, you need to do some research on your own to be safe.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

There are plenty of guides on the web (I've seen them but never paid attention). My problem is I was on the phone with him earlier and he opened his guide and told me a few powders to check out (I was at the gun store). They had one and it was $37 per pound and primers were $48 per 1000. I don't want to pay that much so I am wondering what YOU use (or someone else on here) and where I can get it for a good price.

FWIW, he is an experienced reloader but I have a hard time trusting his judgement sometimes. He is a very unique fellow (good way of describing him) but he has the equipment and I just might be able to spend a few hours with him without running away.

shooterschmidty

I wrote out a long reply and naturally it got deleted. Anyways, here's the gist of it.

Those prices are high. I typically pay around $25/lb for powder and $3-$4/100 for primers. Do you have a Cabelas/Bass Pro/Sportsman's Warehouse nearby? They typically don't have the best prices, but also won't rape you as badly as some places. Buying online in small quantities typically isn't a great deal after you pay hazardous shipping costs. If you were looking to buy a bunch of powder it makes sense to buy online, but one 1lb jug to see if you like reloading isn't worth it. Keep in mind that 1lb of power will make ~300 round at typical .223 charge weights.

I can't give you any specific recommendations on powder as I don't load for .223 myself. Based upon what I've seen though, I would probably use H335 or Varget, depending upon bullet weight, because I already have some on hand for other cartridges. If you foresee reloading other cartridges, then it would make sense to see if there are any powders that will work for both.

I typically use CCI or Winchester primers, but I've used most of the major brands without noticing much difference. The most important thing with primers is that you get the right size (you need small rifle for a .223) and you need to be consistent. I.E., you shouldn't swap brands of primer without reworking the load.

Unfortunately, the fervor surrounding Sandy Hook/Obama in general hasn't entirely subsided in the reloading component world so powder, especially that for .223, is still in limited availability. You might be stuck with buying whatever you can find for whatever they're asking.

What are your goals for reloading? Are you just trying to make something that goes bang and is accurate enough for plinking or are you going for high accuracy or ? If you're going for high accuracy, then we need to discuss load work up, ladder tests, and bullet seating depth. If you just want to make it go "bang", loading a mid level charge at SAAMI specs should work fine.

I suggest you see what powder you can find locally and then do your research online as to appropriate loads. If you're not sure if you trust this guy's judgement you should make extra sure you know your safe range. Remember that you're dealing with 55,000 psi four inches from your face.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Found that the local (60 mile round trip) PSA carries powder and primers. I'll take a drive next week to check them out.



Edit - Also bought 25 pounds of this at Pet Smart today. Bag broke open four times trying to get it from the shelf to the car. They gave me a 20% discount and I conned them out of a large plastic tub to carry it in.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Bought a new Mosin PU Sniper last night from AIM. I have yet to see it but if it looks even half as good as this one (posted image from another customer) I will be one happy dude!






It did not come with a sling or lens cover. Bought an original lens cover off Ebay for $30 this morning. I've been debating whether to shoot milsurp ammo in it (corrosive) or something else. I've decided to go with what I have now (since I have 8000+ rounds sitting here) and upgrade to something else if accuracy dictates. If it was good enough for Vasily it is good enough for me. Of course, I'm assuming he didn't have his own personal supply which he probably did. I've found 7N1 corrosive sniper ammo but it is roughly 4 times the price of the regular milsurp.

Corifto

iTrader: (1)

After ten years in a safe, allow me to present to you my most treasured and sentimental possession.




My grandfather was an avid collector, and had a gun shop before I was born. He met Gary Reeder through that, and had always been a fan of his work. All in all, my grandfather purchased three guns from Gary. A .41 GNR, a .454 Casull, and this .500 BMF.

When my grandfather passed away, there were 53 guns in the house. Growing up, spending time with my grandfather, he would always say they would be mine some day. Until he passed away. My grandmother began to sell anything, and asked me to help, as she had no knowledge of guns. It was painful to have to research market prices and help sell guns that meant so much. All in all, around 12 guns were "saved" for me based on sentimental/collectible reasons.

Two years ago, those guns were stolen, from a locked cabinet, with no damage, and nothing else taken. It's presumed my aunt's boyfriend stole them, and sold them to a pawn shop owner that had closed. Later on, my grandma told the police that they were "sold", and that she couldn't remember selling them, but they must not have been stolen.

I was able to recover the .41 from a closet, as it was too big for the safe, and was in an unassuming briefcase, that nobody knew existed.

The 500 was left in the larger safe, as my grandma didn't want me to have it until I was an adult, and had my own place. Funny thing is, I was 23, and had my own apartment. Still, no gun.

This year, for my 25th birthday, I called my grandmother, and told her that I wanted the gun. All she could insist was that it was safe in the safe. I tried to explain that I wanted it in my possession, to hold, and see, when I was thinking of or missing my grandfather. She just didn't understand. After talking to her some more, and my mother helping plead my case, my grandmother told me she wanted to get together, to "take care of what I talked about.

Finally, Christmas was that day. I brought home my 500 GNR.

My grandfather purchased this gun in June of 2004, and passed away in November that same year, never having shot it. I fully intend to take care of that, and shoot it for him, all these years later.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Very nice! Nice story too!

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

OK, I went completely insane today and bought it! It is used and about $1000 less than MSRP. I have no idea what I am going to do with it but I am the proud owner of.....

... 50 cal of useless (not my picture - grips are stock):

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I agree with everything that Schmidty has to say, but I will tailor my answer more towards what I know you want to do... which is mostly to go make noise.

Reloading does not have to be hard. You can do a good job and make quality ammo with a minimal amount of tools... but it takes a lot of time with just the basics. The more equipment you have, the faster (but not always better) stuff you can make. Pistol ammo for plinking is just plain easy. Plinkin ammo for your AR just requires a bit more quality control with your brass.

To keep it very very very very simple... ANY small rifle primer will work for plinking ammo (even Magnums as long as you've compenstated with less powder if required) and even during the depth of the shenanigans last year, I could always find Wolf Primers for $25/1000. $35/1000 is what guys pay for top-of-the-line "by lot number" benchrest boxes.

There are literally a dozen currently readily available powders that with 22-24gr's of powder will push a 55gr bullet anywhere between 2800-3200fps, which is just what you want for plinking accuracy.
All of these are FINE FINE FINE FINE FINE for .223/5.56:
Varget
H335
H4895
H322
W748
RL12
Benchmark
RL10x
RL15
Ramshot XT
Ramshot TAC
BLC2
AA2230
AA2460
... and a dozen more. Min/max stuff can be found online with lots of examples and plenty of people to tell you about COAL and how deep to seat those long bullets.

Those all-copper bullets you bought (and that I can't wait to get loaded here) are a significantly longer than regular FMJ's, which (since the whole cartridge can only be so long to fit in the magazine) means they will stick further down into the case, which means you'll need to be careful of pushing the bullet down too far and compressing the powder, but you'll be using less powder anyways because these are plinking loads, so there should be plenty of space.

Staying on the lighter side of pressure and keeping the speed down in the 2800fps range should get you at least 10 if not 12-15 loads out of just about any mil-surp 5.56 case (LC, WCC, FC, SB). I buy 2000ct of mixed headstamp 5.56 cases for under $100.

That walnut shell is the exact stuff I buy... I wait until it gets dark and then change it up. I use NuFinish car wax as a polish in the media and give a squirt every 3-4 batches.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Yes, that is what I wanted to know. Now I will go buy a bottle of one of those powders and any damn small rifle primer I can find and load with 23 grains of powder. Thanks!

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Took the long drive to our new PSA store today. Bought two pounds of H335 ($24 each) and 1000 CCI #400 primers ($37). Also picked up a box of .50AE (20 rounds for $29). The 50AE makes a 45ACP look very small. The store is only a month old but I was impressed (much nicer than their other store 100 miles away).

Tumbled my first 400 rounds of .223 and getting ready to call my crazy reloading friend. Might have some finished rounds in a couple of weeks.

Also, received my Mosin PU Sniper. Pretty disappointed that it does not look at nice as some of the other ones I have seen. Horrible finish and beat all to hell. I realize it has seen combat but I wish they had done a better job on the re-arsenal. I didn't want to refinish it but I think I will. I want a nice looking shooter not a collector piece. The refinish will pretty much get me thrown off every Mosin board I am a member of but at this point I think it is where I am headed.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Placed an order for a Lee 50th Anniversary Kit and a set of 223 dies and holder today. I'll be reloading in a week or two. I've got $400 into this reloading thing and have yet to make a round.

shooterschmidty

Do yourself a favor and order this to go with the case trimmer:

Lee Case Length Gage Shellholder 223 Remington

Or this trim die to go with the Lee Value Trim that apparently comes with it.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/742..._vc=sugv742287

I also recommend one of these:
Frankford Arsenal Powder Trickler

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

What a ridiculous money wasting hobby... I love it!

I did some calculating (because that is what I do). I'll be down to a mere $0.50 per round after I do my first 1000. This is not counting any additional equipment I need to buy (estimating another $200 or so but I am probably forgetting some stuff).


BTW, I do appreciate the help!

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

That is a good first kit to get you started... includes everything you need. The only things remaining are consumables (which you're acquiring) and your time.

After a few thousand rounds punching one die at a time, you'll be ready to step up to an indexing press. The Lee Classic Turret is your next purchase... will cut your time-per-round down by about 80%. If I'm motivated, I can do 300rds/hr on my Dillon. The Lee Turret can be just as fast and in some respects is more precise.

The scale that comes with your kit is the weak link. It will be fine for measuring quality control for plinking and to keep your powder measure honest, but isn't accurate enough for hunting loads and precision.

Hand priming it ****... I love to sit in front of the TV and prime brass. You get a much better feel for how primers are seating using a hand-primer vs. a press. I hand-prime all my hunting and precision loads.

Having a separate powder thrower also allows you to inspect each charge as you pour it. When your powder is integrated into your press, you only look every 30-50rds or so. My quality control process is to pull a round every 30'ish and hand-measure it. It costs me about 10rds worth of time to stop, pull the case, measure the charge, and then get back into rhythm, but it guarantees that if anything is off, I'm only going to have to pull the bullets from the last 30 instead of the last 300.

ALSO... what brass are you going to load first?

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

The bitch of it is that I have only fired 400 round through my AR (purchased it 21 months ago). So, all I need to be able to load is 300 rounds a year vs per hour. I'm going to the range tomorrow and if my AR is more accurate than what it was before (you remember my bitching from a month or so ago) I will probably put a lot more through it. If it still sucks then I might sell it (or just hold on to it - they are so damn cheap now) and get one of the Colt LE's.

My kit has a separate powder thrower (not sure if you were thinking it was built in or not).

Not sure what you mean by what brass? All I have is .223 stuff for now if that is what you are asking.

I see the picture of the kit I posted above shows "lee value trim" included but it is not. Just a picture I found on the web. I only paid $124 for the kit (which I thought was a fairly good price) and $8 for two additional quick change bushings. Damn, as I am looking at the Natchez website I see I could have purchased a different Lee kit with the hand primers for the same money. I would have done that if I had known.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

This looks like a cool setup: