First track day this weekend
#41
I'm in a similar situation with boost (shy of 200whp) and stock brakes (though I haven't run EBC greens in a decade).
I think an aggressive track-only pad will be the ticket. Seems that Hawk Blue or XP8/XP10 up front will get the job done and let me be fade-free for 30 minute sessions, no?
What fluid is recommended? I'm planning to pick up a can of ATE blue/Typ200 unless told otherwise.
Does the TSE kit fit standard 15" wheels? I see pics of them on 6ULs, but I plan to stick with the stock 97M wheels for a while.
I think an aggressive track-only pad will be the ticket. Seems that Hawk Blue or XP8/XP10 up front will get the job done and let me be fade-free for 30 minute sessions, no?
What fluid is recommended? I'm planning to pick up a can of ATE blue/Typ200 unless told otherwise.
Does the TSE kit fit standard 15" wheels? I see pics of them on 6ULs, but I plan to stick with the stock 97M wheels for a while.
#44
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Before more questions, let me say thanks much for all the real-world info you guys are offering up. That's why this site kicks so much ***.
Is this info correct? It's what I've read a few places, just want to double check.
After reading a bunch of threads last night I have a question or two so I'm clear on potential upgrade paths. I could theoretically buy pads for the stock calipers and use them on a couple of common upgrades rotor-wise, as the calipers remain the same, correct? So as I understand it, for example, if I go with 1.8 rotors/brackets and new 1.8-sized pads, they obviously work with my 1.6 calipers. If needed, would I then be able swap to Corrado rotors up front and Sport rotors in back with the M-Tuned brackets while retaining the stock caliper and existing pads? I know I'd have to re-bed the pads, but I wouldn't necessarily have to replace them (or the calipers) outright if they weren't worn out, correct? Or am I missing something there?
Spoolin2bars said the same thing about the dust and noise, and that it doesn't bother him and that they work great hot or cold, street or track. He said he's on XP10 front and XP8 rear, on 949 rotors (1.8 size), and can beat on them with no fade at track days. If my upgrade scenario written above is accurate, this is what I'm leaning towards (today at least lol).
Is this info correct? It's what I've read a few places, just want to double check.
Originally Posted by 3rd Pedal @ M.net
I've done the 1.8 upgrade on my 93. Used 1.8 brackets, rotors and 1.8 pads.
1.6 calipers will work. Some will claim that the pads will not wear even w/1.6 calipers and 1.8 brackets. Hasn't happened to my car.
The brackets dictate which pads are required as the pads nest in the brackets and both 1.6 and 1.8 calipers will fit the 1.8 brackets.
1.6 calipers will work. Some will claim that the pads will not wear even w/1.6 calipers and 1.8 brackets. Hasn't happened to my car.
The brackets dictate which pads are required as the pads nest in the brackets and both 1.6 and 1.8 calipers will fit the 1.8 brackets.
After reading a bunch of threads last night I have a question or two so I'm clear on potential upgrade paths. I could theoretically buy pads for the stock calipers and use them on a couple of common upgrades rotor-wise, as the calipers remain the same, correct? So as I understand it, for example, if I go with 1.8 rotors/brackets and new 1.8-sized pads, they obviously work with my 1.6 calipers. If needed, would I then be able swap to Corrado rotors up front and Sport rotors in back with the M-Tuned brackets while retaining the stock caliper and existing pads? I know I'd have to re-bed the pads, but I wouldn't necessarily have to replace them (or the calipers) outright if they weren't worn out, correct? Or am I missing something there?
Spoolin2bars said the same thing about the dust and noise, and that it doesn't bother him and that they work great hot or cold, street or track. He said he's on XP10 front and XP8 rear, on 949 rotors (1.8 size), and can beat on them with no fade at track days. If my upgrade scenario written above is accurate, this is what I'm leaning towards (today at least lol).
#45
So as I understand it, for example, if I go with 1.8 rotors/brackets and new 1.8-sized pads, they obviously work with my 1.6 calipers. If needed, would I then be able swap to Corrado rotors up front and Sport rotors in back with the M-Tuned brackets while retaining the stock caliper and existing pads? I know I'd have to re-bed the pads, but I wouldn't necessarily have to replace them (or the calipers) outright if they weren't worn out, correct?
Spoolin2bars said the same thing about the dust and noise, and that it doesn't bother him and that they work great hot or cold, street or track. He said he's on XP10 front and XP8 rear, on 949 rotors (1.8 size), and can beat on them with no fade at track days. If my upgrade scenario written above is accurate, this is what I'm leaning towards (today at least lol).
#46
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Thanks for the followup, and migrating over here for the discussion as well. I'm not having to drive in freezing temps since it's not my DD, so no worries about extreme cold and ineffective braking.
Are the Sport calipers different (larger, or 2 piston, or both)? I have not seen any mention of that anywhere as of yet.
Are the Sport calipers different (larger, or 2 piston, or both)? I have not seen any mention of that anywhere as of yet.
#47
Thanks for the followup, and migrating over here for the discussion as well. I'm not having to drive in freezing temps since it's not my DD, so no worries about extreme cold and ineffective braking.
Are the Sport calipers different (larger, or 2 piston, or both)? I have not seen any mention of that anywhere as of yet.
Are the Sport calipers different (larger, or 2 piston, or both)? I have not seen any mention of that anywhere as of yet.
#49
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I just found some rear caliper brackets and prop valve from a local '96 partout. So it looks like I'll be doing a full 1.8 swap, buying the Stage 1 kit from 949racing, and probably going with XP10 front/XP8 rear pads. Will most likely not be til I'm back from Ireland that I buy all the 949 goodies but it's on the horizon. Looking forward to being able to stop safely
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Found part of my problem with the brakes today. Spent some time bleeding them and decided to grease the pins. Driver side rear pin is rusted in place, and no amount of PB Blaster, hammering, etc would break it loose...it started to unscrew when I tried to rotate it up off the rotor and just would not let go.
#52
Found part of my problem with the brakes today. Spent some time bleeding them and decided to grease the pins. Driver side rear pin is rusted in place, and no amount of PB Blaster, hammering, etc would break it loose...it started to unscrew when I tried to rotate it up off the rotor and just would not let go.
Had same issue when I first went through my brakes about a year ago. Used an air chisel (with blunt bit -- like a hammer) to break it loose. Being keeping up with the lubrication since then and it's fine.
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All the other calipers were lubed up and ready for action. Odd to me that this one is frozen given the condition of the others.
Hornetball, were you able to reuse after breaking it loose, or did you bend the pin or otherwise damage the caliper beyond repair?
Hornetball, were you able to reuse after breaking it loose, or did you bend the pin or otherwise damage the caliper beyond repair?
#54
I re-used. Cleaned up the pin with fine sandpaper, used a wire pipe brush on the caliper bore, flushed and lubed the heck out of it. No problems since. I re-lube every 6 months now.
Although all calipers are theoretically succeptible to this, it's the rear calipers that give problems on our cars.
Although all calipers are theoretically succeptible to this, it's the rear calipers that give problems on our cars.
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Finally got my hands on brake pads. Picked up the XP10/XP8 pads from 949, but passed on the entire Stage 1 kit. I was able to order rotors through my friends shop for $14/ea and save some $$ there, and I figure I'll grab braided lines at some point in the future when I don't have a clutch replacement about to hoover my wallet.
Anywhoo, only got the fronts installed today as I didn't have time to deal with that frozen caliper in the rear. Also realized that I don't have dust shields up front at all, but that'll just make adding some fancy ducted ones easier. Went out and bedded them in, and even with just the 10's up front the stopping is dramatically different. Thanks again for all the suggestions here.
Anywhoo, only got the fronts installed today as I didn't have time to deal with that frozen caliper in the rear. Also realized that I don't have dust shields up front at all, but that'll just make adding some fancy ducted ones easier. Went out and bedded them in, and even with just the 10's up front the stopping is dramatically different. Thanks again for all the suggestions here.
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Jeff, why don't you like them?
Only thing I don't like thus far, and it's not a deal breaker, is the dust. Holy **** there's a lot of that. But the car basically does an endo when I get on the brakes now, and I can feel the skin on my face pulling away from my skull lol. Excited to get the rears on so I can see if I can actually pop an eye out with them all the way around.
Only thing I don't like thus far, and it's not a deal breaker, is the dust. Holy **** there's a lot of that. But the car basically does an endo when I get on the brakes now, and I can feel the skin on my face pulling away from my skull lol. Excited to get the rears on so I can see if I can actually pop an eye out with them all the way around.