another 91 greddy.. but its clean atleast :)
10-23-2011, 06:43 PM
#22
I've setup my system with a cockpit pushbutton and a pressure light. The switch will activate the WI whenever I push it. If everything is OK, the light illuminates based upon the presence of water pressure between the checkvalve/solenoid and the injector. I then release the switch. It takes about 1 second for the light to extinguish as the pressure "bleeds down" through the nozzle. Simple and effective. Don't even have to lift the hood. If the light doesn't illuminate, I have a water supply/pump problem. If the light stays on too long, I have a clog.
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10-24-2011, 10:20 AM
#24
Lol I know what im talking about. You just seem to be a hater, instead of being positive.
Obviously having full control over timing and fuel would get me more power.
Ok. So maybe ill be inbetween 200-230. thats fine with me. And I wasnt comparing the 1.6 miata motor to the 4g63, I was only stating that the power delivery feels the same bro. Take a chill pill
I was only comparing previous numbers my evo had done on that dyno. If I hit 218whp. Thats close enough to 230whp for me. A simple port and polish on the intake and exhaust manifold, ill clear 230whp no problem.
But I have yet to dyno the miata ! Lol so we'll see.
However, its not like dyno numbers really say that much in the end
Obviously having full control over timing and fuel would get me more power.
Ok. So maybe ill be inbetween 200-230. thats fine with me. And I wasnt comparing the 1.6 miata motor to the 4g63, I was only stating that the power delivery feels the same bro. Take a chill pill
I was only comparing previous numbers my evo had done on that dyno. If I hit 218whp. Thats close enough to 230whp for me. A simple port and polish on the intake and exhaust manifold, ill clear 230whp no problem.
But I have yet to dyno the miata ! Lol so we'll see.
However, its not like dyno numbers really say that much in the end
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10-24-2011, 01:23 PM
#28
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eh, ignore them. Your claim is harmless, true or not. Let them fume pointlessly about it, and prove them wrong with your dyno graph, or come back humbly. Or with 20 excuses, whichever you want.
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10-24-2011, 01:42 PM
#29
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Ya. Ill post results in a month or so. Ill be aiming for 14psi peak, settling at 12 psi holding till red line. what boost were you running when you had the 12:1 fpr, curly?
Im running an 8:1 disk now. I at 12psi peak I see 11.8afr, then it drops steadily to 10.5afr at redline. I think I can get the peak boost (14psi) at a safe afr, by adjusting my 02clamp to about .28v. Its at .33v now.. It gets to 11.2 before peak. hopefully I can make it work.
Im running an 8:1 disk now. I at 12psi peak I see 11.8afr, then it drops steadily to 10.5afr at redline. I think I can get the peak boost (14psi) at a safe afr, by adjusting my 02clamp to about .28v. Its at .33v now.. It gets to 11.2 before peak. hopefully I can make it work.
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10-24-2011, 01:43 PM
#30
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Ya. Ill post results in a month or so. Ill be aiming for 14psi peak, settling at 12 psi holding till red line. what boost were you running when you had the 12:1 fpr, curly?
Im running an 8:1 disk now. I at 12psi peak I see 11.8afr, then it drops steadily to 10.5afr at redline. I think I can get the peak boost (14psi) at a safe afr, by adjusting my 02clamp to about .28v. Its at .33v now.. It gets to 11.2 before peak. hopefully I can make it work.
Im running an 8:1 disk now. I at 12psi peak I see 11.8afr, then it drops steadily to 10.5afr at redline. I think I can get the peak boost (14psi) at a safe afr, by adjusting my 02clamp to about .28v. Its at .33v now.. It gets to 11.2 before peak. hopefully I can make it work.
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10-24-2011, 10:09 PM
#31
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eh? When'd I say that? You mean before my MS? I thought "stock" was 10:1? Either way, never changed it, so I did have the "stock" disc in there.
I was running approx. 12psi. 10 if it was on it's period, which is was more often than not. I would leave for work at 5am in 30-45 degree weather and could be driving home in 70-80*. Just got tired of it not staying consistent, and having to bust out a volt meter and climb in the foot well for the o2 clamp, pressure gauge and vise grips and under the hood for my BEGI AFPR, couple of wrenches and a few boosted runs for the MBC, etc, etc. After selling my **** and buying 460 rx7 injectors, I think I paid $200 for the MS. Worth it. I've had two trouble free track days.
Oh, I should explain. Even if I had weeks of trouble free street driving, the track would bring a whole new set of issues. AFR would change and it'd be a pain (as described above) to adjust, fuel pressure would go through the roof and puke out of my overflow (charcoal canister), most AFR issues would result in over heating, and when I ran hot enough, the bipes would pull 90 degrees of timing and leave me with approximately 20hp under 4000rpm. Almost got stuck in the pits once since there's a small hill at ORP.
I was running approx. 12psi. 10 if it was on it's period, which is was more often than not. I would leave for work at 5am in 30-45 degree weather and could be driving home in 70-80*. Just got tired of it not staying consistent, and having to bust out a volt meter and climb in the foot well for the o2 clamp, pressure gauge and vise grips and under the hood for my BEGI AFPR, couple of wrenches and a few boosted runs for the MBC, etc, etc. After selling my **** and buying 460 rx7 injectors, I think I paid $200 for the MS. Worth it. I've had two trouble free track days.
Oh, I should explain. Even if I had weeks of trouble free street driving, the track would bring a whole new set of issues. AFR would change and it'd be a pain (as described above) to adjust, fuel pressure would go through the roof and puke out of my overflow (charcoal canister), most AFR issues would result in over heating, and when I ran hot enough, the bipes would pull 90 degrees of timing and leave me with approximately 20hp under 4000rpm. Almost got stuck in the pits once since there's a small hill at ORP.
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10-25-2011, 01:06 PM
#32
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No doubt that I will get a megasquirt in a few months. Im just street driving the car now, some autocross.. Ive only had the car a few months and there are alot of things it needs.
But ya, the stock disk is 12:1.. Maybe that was contributing to your fueling issues. Im using a 8:1 disk and im very impressed with the afr curve.. I was thinking of running the pressure signal for the vortech right off the turbo, using a smaller vortech disk.. And all this im doing is free, im just messing with what ive got, safely.
Whats ur peak AFR at peak boost now Curly?
But ya, the stock disk is 12:1.. Maybe that was contributing to your fueling issues. Im using a 8:1 disk and im very impressed with the afr curve.. I was thinking of running the pressure signal for the vortech right off the turbo, using a smaller vortech disk.. And all this im doing is free, im just messing with what ive got, safely.
Whats ur peak AFR at peak boost now Curly?
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10-25-2011, 01:07 PM
#33
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No doubt that I will get a megasquirt in a few months. Im just street driving the car now, some autocross.. Ive only had the car a few months and there are alot of things it needs.
But ya, the stock disk is 12:1.. Maybe that was contributing to your fueling issues. Im using a 8:1 disk and im very impressed with the afr curve.. I was thinking of running the pressure signal for the vortech right off the turbo, using a smaller vortech disk.. And all this im doing is free, im just messing with what ive got, safely.
Whats ur peak AFR at peak boost now Curly?
But ya, the stock disk is 12:1.. Maybe that was contributing to your fueling issues. Im using a 8:1 disk and im very impressed with the afr curve.. I was thinking of running the pressure signal for the vortech right off the turbo, using a smaller vortech disk.. And all this im doing is free, im just messing with what ive got, safely.
Whats ur peak AFR at peak boost now Curly?
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10-25-2011, 10:47 PM
#35
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I think the general consensus is high 11's in peak boost is the best for power/safety. I believe I'm around 11.8 right now. Whatever it's at, it survives track days flawlessly so I'm leaving it alone. Nice to know it's only a laptop hookup away from complete adjustment though.
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10-27-2011, 10:36 PM
#36
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Lol I know what im talking about. You just seem to be a hater, instead of being positive.
A simple port and polish on the intake and exhaust manifold, ill clear 230whp no problem.
But I have yet to dyno the miata ! Lol so we'll see.
However, its not like dyno numbers really say that much in the end
A simple port and polish on the intake and exhaust manifold, ill clear 230whp no problem.
But I have yet to dyno the miata ! Lol so we'll see.
However, its not like dyno numbers really say that much in the end
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10-28-2011, 12:54 PM
#37
Stop being a typical DSM douche. Just be happy with what you have because no one is impressed with the Greddy kit your running no matter how much power you make. Hell half the guys here won't even respond to a question unless its track related. Get rid of the "disk" and go legit.
Of course, the only parts I used were the manifold, turbo and downpipe.
And . . . I modified the manifold and downpipe.
Ummmm, never mind!
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10-28-2011, 06:14 PM
#38
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Stop being a typical DSM douche. Just be happy with what you have because no one is impressed with the Greddy kit your running no matter how much power you make. Hell half the guys here won't even respond to a question unless its track related. Get rid of the "disk" and go legit.
you sound like the typical internet little bitch that has nothing good to say.
And its a good thing im not trying to impress anyone, except you, cuz your the fucken ****. i wish i was more like you.
and ive had the car for 3 months. so you can suck my disk. Im getting a megasquirt soon enough.
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10-28-2011, 06:20 PM
#39
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So im only running the greddy manifold and td04h turbo.
I really like the power delivery, nothing like a 450whp evo, but maybe one day
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11-22-2011, 11:23 PM
#40
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Update
UPDATE: just picked up my MSPNP with all the goodies. Got it brand new. Ill be installing it over the next few days after work.. Haha. Im just,pretty stoked now that I can tune this bitch.
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