Good news and bad news. No wait, just bad. Now some good
#82
referenced this thread when I was doing it too, just to make sure I'm not missing or forgetting anything.
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...il-pump-65290/
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...il-pump-65290/
#83
Former Vendor
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Tough love in this post, beware.
Stop ******* cranking it, pull the pan, and replace the oil pump, and do it preferably before you **** up the bearings any further. The relief valve is obviously stuck open, and there is no amount of fuckery that you will do aside from replacing the entire part that will fix this. Stop risking a $3000 motor to save a $300 pump that is very obviously broken.
There is a major lack of common sense in this thread.
Stop ******* cranking it, pull the pan, and replace the oil pump, and do it preferably before you **** up the bearings any further. The relief valve is obviously stuck open, and there is no amount of fuckery that you will do aside from replacing the entire part that will fix this. Stop risking a $3000 motor to save a $300 pump that is very obviously broken.
There is a major lack of common sense in this thread.
#88
Cpt. Slow
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MT community:
At least Martin followed the MT wisdom at AR. Glad you're back on the road though.
Lars had similar problem on exactly the same kind of engine:
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...-49760/page24/
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...-49760/page24/
First before anything else, take off the alternator, there will be a small Allen head plug on the oil pump. Remove that and put lots of paper towels down all around and briefly try to crank the car. If you do not get oil coming out that hole then the oil pump is not building pressure. If oil shoots out then you know the oil pump is working.
At least Martin followed the MT wisdom at AR. Glad you're back on the road though.
#90
Cpt. Slow
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Martin is greddygalant. He was happy to have mike's (Dopple's) car leave his garage after engine pulling, shipping, and install delays. Only to have it show up at his work, Adrenaline Racing. He followed our advice and found a clogged FM relocation plate.
#94
Me neither. I'll be taking it apart soon to find out what got in there. That thing has been on the car since before I owned it and makes no logical sense as to something clogging it.
I'm happy though. I've squared away a few details. I drove the car a bit with the WG wired open, then did some driving with the WG connected but stayed under 4psi....all felt well. Once the knock sensor is back on, I'll hook up the lappy toppy and set the MBC to 10psi so I can drive the car fairly normally until I can get to KO Racing and have it tuned.
I already put 100mi on it lol
Yeah, the valve lash definitely need checking though...it sounds a bit like a NA 1.8 that's been driven hard.
BTW Martin, it helps when the charge pipe is ON the end of the compressor outlet....not just sitting next to it...
#96
mkturbo.com
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**** getting that pipe on. I was trying to help a guy at the Mitty get it on and it was a royal PITA.
#97
I didn't touch that charge pipe when you brought it to the shop. It was attached when you left my house, Josh will confirm that. Probably for the best though, just to make sure you don't break it again :P xoxoxo
But seriously, that pipe sucks, it runs on everything.
How is is the car otherwise?
But seriously, that pipe sucks, it runs on everything.
How is is the car otherwise?
#99
I didn't touch that charge pipe when you brought it to the shop. It was attached when you left my house, Josh will confirm that. Probably for the best though, just to make sure you don't break it again :P xoxoxo
But seriously, that pipe sucks, it runs on everything.
How is is the car otherwise?
But seriously, that pipe sucks, it runs on everything.
How is is the car otherwise?
See post above for status of car.
Nah, once it's properly over the compressor, the clamp doesn't touch the coolant hose.