flounder

The winter project is underway. This was by far the easiest pull I've ever done. Still kicking myself for not going this route the first time around.

Nothing too major in the works, just a new clutch/flywheel kit, rods, and some random leaky seals and she's going back in. I'm also going to clean the hell out of everything so she looks nice and purty.

I attempted to leave the downpipe in the car. but as you can see from the pics I had a few studs snap the **** off! Oh well, now that it's out, extracting them from the turbine hopefully won't be too painful.

Progress pics as parts start to arrive.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

I was planning on doing this similar thing this winter. Rods, Godspeed 3076, head redone, hone/ rings, crank case evac, new IC plumbing/ DP. You pulled the engine and trans as a whole? That's what I was planning. It appears it worked out well for you!
Can't wait to see more progress!

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

Sounded crazy the first time I heard it, but it's no more difficult to actually pull the motor and saves you the pain of trying to line up the tranny.

flounder

Yeah.

Just me, a compressor, a harbor freight picker, and about 3hrs. Back in '09 before the begi kit went on, I did a ring and hone and had a 3 angle done to the head. I left the block and trans in the car and dropped the cradle to remove the pan and pushed the pistons out the top. It was a pita.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Congrats on using your brain. It really is THE WAY to work on these motors. Yank it all out, bolt everything together without cutting your hands up or crawling into places like a damn worm, then just plop it back in.

Fast, easy, and painless.

flounder

120k mile clutch? 7k miles boosted, the last 3k at 11 psi.

redfred18t

iTrader: (1)

did you have issues with the tail end of the transmission hitting the floor? I was thinking about pulling my motor this way to do a swap and clutch job. Figure it's easier than dealing with those sumo wrestler tightened bolts I'm hearing about on the top of the tranny

y8s

iTrader: (8)

the top tranny bolts are cake if you have several lengths of wobble extensions. Just add them all together until the ratchet handle is below the car and crank. the harbor freight ones are strong enough as long as you throw away the 1/4" ones that come in the package.

spoolin2bars

iTrader: (1)

i don't understand? isn't this how motors get pulled on rwd cars since the beginning of time?

chriscar

iTrader: (24)

Welcome to doing it the right way.




C

flounder

I had the car on four jackstands about 2ft off the ground with the hood removed and it came out nicely. Once you get the two engine mounts out of the way and the coil packs removed, it sneaks right out.

I'm pretty sure mazda assembles them this way over in Hiroshima.

Here are a few more shots showing numerous oil leaks and the damn studs that snapped on me. Gonna need a drill, extractor, tap, heat, and a prayer to get those two bastards out.

Miater

Good luck with the extraction. Thats a doozie

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

If you're not wanting to really deal with extrating thoes studs, just get a new exhaust housing and have it poorted while you're at it. They aren't really that expensive. I'm sure BEGi can get you a hotside housing...I got mine from them with no problems.

flounder

Well, I broke off the extractor in one of them and ended up just drilling out the other one. I have better tools at work so I'm bringing the turbo with me to extract the extractor. Hopefully a good forward cutting drill bit can get it out of there.

If that works, I'll tap the holes and get new studs, if not, I'm thinking 2560 churbo ftw.

Here are some pics of the wonderful bp4w's inner workings. The brown coloring is from an octane booster I like to run along with the 93 octane pump gas.

flounder

Update on the broken stuff- I successfully managed to not only remove the broken off extractor from the housing but also managed to save the turbo from an early death with the help of some heli-coils. It'll be a while before it gets tested but I think all will be ok.

The other two shots are of the stock rods and they look great. 7k miles of emanage/lc1 street tuning and 11psi didn't see to have any adverse effect on this tough little bp. I kinda wish I would have bumped it up to 13-14psi before the tear down just to see what would of happened.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Who is still thick enough to pull the motor without the transmission attached?

falcon

iTrader: (13)

I only pulled a motor like this from my old RX7, but I had that problem so I ended up jacking the whole car off the ground and let it sit on 4 jackstands. Worked like a charm.

flounder

Another update-

The block is bare and ready for hot tanking. As soon as the new rods, rings, and bearings arrive, everything will be going to the machine shop for cleaning and assembly.

The diy hone job from a couple years ago looks terrible. I just couldn't get the depth needed to get a nice crosshatch while the crank was still installed. I'm surprised it ran as good as it did.

*If mods want to move this over to build threads, feel free.

flounder

BEEFY!

I don't have a scale, but they feel slightly lighter than the stockers.

flounder

I got the block back from getting honed last week, and my rings and bearings just arrived today. So far I've only had time to swap over the rods, install the bearings, and measure and install the rings. All the gaskets and other misc. items should be arriving before Friday.

I still have to paint the block and VC before everything goes back together.

Clean oil pan!