The best intro post on this page
#1
The best intro post on this page
...well, probably not.
Eventually, i'm going to ask if my course of action makes sense and if there's anything obvious that i should be doing that i'm not.
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Hi forum! I've had my '97 for a little over 2 years now, and in that time clocked 40,000 miles on it, almost all of them in miata territory. It now has 110k. I've replaced the top, the timing belt, water pump, brake pads (2x) and rotors , tires (4x), the radiator with an double row, clutch slave, all the hoses, the differential (had an open, tried a rx7 clutch type, and settled on a torsen) and run almost every logical (or illogical) combination of suspension parts you can use on kyb GR2s or NA bilstein coilover assemblies (suspension is my fascination).
The car is in good repair, shows good even compression, and just BEGS for more power. That's a new thing to me, i've never felt the need to modify an engine since i was 18 and put a cone filter on my econobox. So i have done almost no engine tuning, although i'm a fairly savvy garage mechanic. Fascinating, i'm sure. You're welcome!
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So i bought someone's home brew turbo set up off craigslist. I bought...
-turbonetics t3/t4b super S (Super S / F1-57 .48A/R, says turbonetics catalog)
-first generation BEGi cast manifold
-a nicely made 2.5" homebrew dp, with the wastegate welded on
-a conquest intercooler that has been replumbed so that it can be installed "over the radiator"
-a greddy bov
-an electromotive tec2/ sensors
-a 2.5" exhaust with a big *** magnaflow straight-through muffler
- RC pl8-550 injectors
-a ridiculous quad feed fuel rail
-guages and pod
I bought the set up because everything was in very good condition (minus the tec2 harness), the welding was much better than my own, and it's a lot easier to start with something and spend to suit your purposes than to buy a bunch of new stuff and be disappointed. I figure this kit is ~8 years old, and i'd guess it has <30k on it, based off the condition of the hoses and turbo.
I also have a LC-1 wideband controller, new turbo oil lines and fittings, a oil filter feed doohickey, and revised the IC set up to be a/c friendly and not hang by plumber's tape.
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So.....
It looks like the tec2 isn't really supported or used any more, and it's silly to rewire it when ms2 is what everyone is using and almost plugs in. So i expect to move over to ms2diypnp. My injectors are peak and hold, and it looks like everyone is using saturated, and ms2 can run my injectors by changing a setting that treats them like peak and hold injectors with a resistor. Is this a good solution or will i be ultimately happier with like rx8 injectors?
It makes sense to me to buy an assembled ms unit from someone, to limit the amount of screwups, and maybe get a basemap that someone will already know what i need to tweak. I can solder just fine, though. Thoughts?
Should i spend the extra 100$ and get my injectors serviced?
-
I was planning to initially get the engine management running with the big injectors, get a stable idle and cruise, maybe by tweaking someone else's turbo tune, and then add my forced induction stuff later. Is this a sensible route?
It looks like my set up should be good for quite a bit more power than my clutch can handle. I was planning to further refine my tune and become comfortable with adequate power at <clutch slip, and then move to a sturdier clutch and at that time add a coolant reroute, when it sounds like it's a walk in the cake.
Am i on the right track? Am i totally missing something important? I have all the money i need to do good work, but... i'm buying used turbo kits off CL, ya know? I look forward to what you nuggets have to say, i am awash in a sea of stuff i only understand conceptually.
Yay trubos!
Eventually, i'm going to ask if my course of action makes sense and if there's anything obvious that i should be doing that i'm not.
------------------------------------------------------
Hi forum! I've had my '97 for a little over 2 years now, and in that time clocked 40,000 miles on it, almost all of them in miata territory. It now has 110k. I've replaced the top, the timing belt, water pump, brake pads (2x) and rotors , tires (4x), the radiator with an double row, clutch slave, all the hoses, the differential (had an open, tried a rx7 clutch type, and settled on a torsen) and run almost every logical (or illogical) combination of suspension parts you can use on kyb GR2s or NA bilstein coilover assemblies (suspension is my fascination).
The car is in good repair, shows good even compression, and just BEGS for more power. That's a new thing to me, i've never felt the need to modify an engine since i was 18 and put a cone filter on my econobox. So i have done almost no engine tuning, although i'm a fairly savvy garage mechanic. Fascinating, i'm sure. You're welcome!
-
So i bought someone's home brew turbo set up off craigslist. I bought...
-turbonetics t3/t4b super S (Super S / F1-57 .48A/R, says turbonetics catalog)
-first generation BEGi cast manifold
-a nicely made 2.5" homebrew dp, with the wastegate welded on
-a conquest intercooler that has been replumbed so that it can be installed "over the radiator"
-a greddy bov
-an electromotive tec2/ sensors
-a 2.5" exhaust with a big *** magnaflow straight-through muffler
- RC pl8-550 injectors
-a ridiculous quad feed fuel rail
-guages and pod
I bought the set up because everything was in very good condition (minus the tec2 harness), the welding was much better than my own, and it's a lot easier to start with something and spend to suit your purposes than to buy a bunch of new stuff and be disappointed. I figure this kit is ~8 years old, and i'd guess it has <30k on it, based off the condition of the hoses and turbo.
I also have a LC-1 wideband controller, new turbo oil lines and fittings, a oil filter feed doohickey, and revised the IC set up to be a/c friendly and not hang by plumber's tape.
-
So.....
It looks like the tec2 isn't really supported or used any more, and it's silly to rewire it when ms2 is what everyone is using and almost plugs in. So i expect to move over to ms2diypnp. My injectors are peak and hold, and it looks like everyone is using saturated, and ms2 can run my injectors by changing a setting that treats them like peak and hold injectors with a resistor. Is this a good solution or will i be ultimately happier with like rx8 injectors?
It makes sense to me to buy an assembled ms unit from someone, to limit the amount of screwups, and maybe get a basemap that someone will already know what i need to tweak. I can solder just fine, though. Thoughts?
Should i spend the extra 100$ and get my injectors serviced?
-
I was planning to initially get the engine management running with the big injectors, get a stable idle and cruise, maybe by tweaking someone else's turbo tune, and then add my forced induction stuff later. Is this a sensible route?
It looks like my set up should be good for quite a bit more power than my clutch can handle. I was planning to further refine my tune and become comfortable with adequate power at <clutch slip, and then move to a sturdier clutch and at that time add a coolant reroute, when it sounds like it's a walk in the cake.
Am i on the right track? Am i totally missing something important? I have all the money i need to do good work, but... i'm buying used turbo kits off CL, ya know? I look forward to what you nuggets have to say, i am awash in a sea of stuff i only understand conceptually.
Yay trubos!
Last edited by scottzg; 11-30-2012 at 09:48 PM.
#10
Thanks!
So, does it make sense to pitch them and get some ...? injectors, instead?
I was under the impression that they were very good quality, and the right size for the application at stock fuel pressure levels. I'm not married to anything i have, but i don't wanna go changing things *****-nilly, just replace the stuff that is a real handicap or clearly outdated.
So, does it make sense to pitch them and get some ...? injectors, instead?
I was under the impression that they were very good quality, and the right size for the application at stock fuel pressure levels. I'm not married to anything i have, but i don't wanna go changing things *****-nilly, just replace the stuff that is a real handicap or clearly outdated.
#11
well they're ev1. if you're ok with injectors that will "get the job done" be sloppy, and not very efficient, then they'll work. if you want better, get some ev6 (rx8, etc) ones, if you want best get some ev14 (fic, id, etc) ones.
And no, RC is not a good, quality injector. Maybe in 1980. Its 2012
And no, RC is not a good, quality injector. Maybe in 1980. Its 2012
#12
well they're ev1. if you're ok with injectors that will "get the job done" be sloppy, and not very efficient, then they'll work. if you want better, get some ev6 (rx8, etc) ones, if you want best get some ev14 (fic, id, etc) ones.
And no, RC is not a good, quality injector. Maybe in 1980. Its 2012
And no, RC is not a good, quality injector. Maybe in 1980. Its 2012
#13
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Thats a total exaggeration and you know it.
He is waaaaay better off with new-ish RC injectors than some 20 year old dirty **** injectors like everybody is always throwing in their ****. I shudder to think about how many engines have blown up from used injectors that were never flow tested.
OP, Pics of the fuel rail. It sounds hilarious.
He is waaaaay better off with new-ish RC injectors than some 20 year old dirty **** injectors like everybody is always throwing in their ****. I shudder to think about how many engines have blown up from used injectors that were never flow tested.
OP, Pics of the fuel rail. It sounds hilarious.
#14
Its not at all. They are crap. I've used ev1's enough on my 1st setup to speak from exp. (cleaned/tested too, as all are my injectors always)
I've also used ev6's, which were way better.
I've also used ev14's after which I will never use any other injectors.
Sure when compared to non-flowed ev1's the rc's are ok, but that's now what we're talking about here.
rx8 injectors + dw cleaning = decent setup and for only a couple hundo
I've also used ev6's, which were way better.
I've also used ev14's after which I will never use any other injectors.
Sure when compared to non-flowed ev1's the rc's are ok, but that's now what we're talking about here.
rx8 injectors + dw cleaning = decent setup and for only a couple hundo
#15
For me, it makes sense to move over to rx8 injectors because it looks like they'll be easier to get a stable idle and set up megasquirt. Getting the rc injectors rebuilt would be a hundred bucks, and rebuilt flowbenched yellow tops are 160. 18 gave me the incentive I needed. I appreciate the discussion, I don't know crap and it's helpful to read. I'll snap a pic of the fuel rail tomorrow.
Last edited by scottzg; 12-01-2012 at 11:46 PM.
#16
A noob with spunk and the correct attitude for this forum; you'll do well here.
I said you should search my old posts, not click the link in my sig. I'm not sure if that's from stupidity, retardation or a combination on the two. This is what I wanted you to find https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...2-mspnp-27597/ Pretty much breaks it down simply. The TECII is dated, it will still work, but you're on your own when it comes to trouble shooting and support. I mean, I had to bust out my old, old, old laptop so I could load the floppy drives for it
The rest of your build looks decent, could be made into a great budget street setup...
Good choice on the RX8 injectors. As someone who uses RC's, I'd rate them at a solid "meh". They got me buy for 200-ish horsepower but they were no where near perfect.
Edit: I've never seen someone do a re-drill on a manifold like that. I'd definitely get a shop to machine the flanges flat, otherwise you'll get a hot spot and I can see that thin area between the holes (lol) cracking first.
And with a starion intercooler, holy ****. This is some oldschool hardware. You're on the right track with the injectors. Just throw in a Megasquirt and you should be good to go.
Last edited by viperormiata; 12-02-2012 at 01:23 AM.