turbofan

iTrader: (1)

There are individual threads for that.

Budget Bilsteins are good.

Stance and Megan are poo.

FM Vmaxx is cheap and has been getting good reviews lately.

Xidas just experienced a $200 ish price drop.

G_Wheezy

I'm not above spending a decent chunk of change for a decent suspension setup. Since it's going to be a street car more than a track car, it doesn't need to be too stiff. I'll take a look at the XIDA's.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

FWIW, if I wasn't building a track car I personally wouldn't bother with the Xidas. For a street car I'd have much preferred my previous Fatcat revalved billies on softer springs.

The Xidas are a great setup, but they are stiff!

G_Wheezy

I mean I don't mind stiff when it comes to ride stability. If the car is lowered, obviously it needs to be a little stiff or you bottom out. If they're like racing-application stiff it probably wouldn't be a great ride hah.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

For being race-capable shocks the ride is absolutely fantastic. At a low ride height I am happy with the ride for sure. If you can afford them youbwobt regret it. It just may be overkill for your application if you have no plans to track the car.

G_Wheezy

I got you. I'll definitely consider them, thanks man.

G_Wheezy

In keeping up with the white scheme, I decided to add a little personal flair to the inside. Thanks to my awesome girlfriend for the shift ****!

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

With stiff springs and adjusted to stiff damping settings, yes. With medium or softer spring rates, damping adjusted medium, they're quite plush. Easily as plush as any other combination available for the Miata.

You decide what springs will work for you or call us for some guidance. Adjust damping to suit driving conditions.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

My XIDAs are comfortable on full soft, and I went with 750/450 springs

G_Wheezy

I was checking the spring rates on the Xidas coil covers and I think I'm going to go with them. Maybe 750/450, maybe a tad stiffer.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

If you know what you need and understand the options, feel free to order from the site. If you want to have us double check your math, drop us line.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

I should have been more clear.

I'm on 700/400 springs, NB, no PSor AC but with turbo. Full interior.

On full soft it's tolerable on the street but I still find it quite stiff. On the track I run about 10 clicks in so far.. haven't had a ton of track time, but that felt good at Laguna.

If I was building a street car only I'd personally choose softer rates. Obviously Thumpetto and I have differing definitions of "comfortable."

G_Wheezy

A new problem has sprung up. For some reason, sometimes the clutch won't disengage and it's either difficult or impossible to switch gears. When I turn the car off and shift to first, with the clutch engaged it doesn't move so I don't think it's slipping. I've also noticed that the travel time for the clutch is extremely short- less than an inch perhaps. Maybe adjust the linkage?

G_Wheezy

I think one possibility is that I never noticed before how short the travel is and I may have just not pressed the clutch in all the way.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Bad clutch slave, common Miata problem after several years. Could be the clutch master but most likely the slave.

G_Wheezy

Just got out from under her to try and see if there was anything leaking from the slave. Nothing so far but it looks really worn so it's probably worth trying that first.

I noticed a loose bracket around one of the lines near the slave cylinder. Anyone know what it goes to?

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

G_Wheezy

Lol fair enough.

Dropped her off at a shop that worked on my e30 for me since all of my tools are still in storage. Hoping its it's the slave so I don't have to eat the 1300 dollar clutch replacement.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Usually the slave, common failure on old Miatas. They're less than $20. $1300 for a Miata clutch including R&R sounds a bit steep. I'd expect more like $500-700 P&L. Add maybe $200 for a race clutch.

G_Wheezy

All the symptoms I'm reading about for a failing clutch and slave sound almost exactly the same. Is there a dead giveaway that the clutch isn't the culprit? Here are my symptoms:

The past day or so it was almost impossible to shift into gear. This afternoon, I started it in first and it wanted to stall out with the clutch depressed. After driving it for a little and engaging the clutch a bit, I could shift from neutral to first at a dead stop if I pressed firmly on the clutch.

A visual inspection showed that the slave wasn't leaking, but it looked corroded.

Clutch fluid was in the correct range, but was brown.

This problem kind of came up out of nowhere. I personally think my driving habits are decent enough that I don't ride the clutch.

PO was the second owner. Older dude who babied it as far as I can tell. It barely saw road use based on the color of the diff and trans fluids.