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Old 06-18-2016, 03:57 AM
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Default First Project Car, Hopefully My Daily Soon

Hey Gang,
My name's Dan. I manage a furniture store, have a wife and a 1 year old daughter. I've been wanting to try modifying cars since over 10 years ago and I just pulled the trigger on getting my first project car: '96 Miata w/ a '99 head swap. It looks rough and runs even worse. Last owner only had the car for the last 6 months and I think the owner before him did the head swap w/ long headers, aftermarket wheels, and Koni sport shocks on lowering springs. Bought it for $1500 and drove it home last week (Got a quick lesson on driving stick from my brother in law the day before LOL!). The goal is to have it running smooth and driveable with simple maintenance items as I learn more about the car and how it operates. I will also be doing my homework on boosting and hopefully will be ready to do it next summer. I formerly studied in college as a physics major turned chem major and have an interest in mechanical engineering. So, though I don't have a degree, I enjoy learning all the technical goodies.



Issues:
- CEL, pulling code for bad downstream O2 sensor
- CEL, pulling code for bad crankshaft position sensor
- car idles REALLY rough, won't run unless you give it gas at idle
- aftermarket wheel has weird lug nuts that I can't take off yet
- timing belt cover was never put on by whoever did the '99 head swap and the belts rubbed the crap out of the crank position sensor wire
- turn signal housings are missing. I have no idea why they were taken out
- The body is dinged up and body kit has tears/cracks in it
- speedometer is off
- tachometer is off
- gas gauge is off
- rust in rocker panels


Things I've down so far:
- Replace O2 sensor. Still had the same code..
- Replaced crankshaft position sensor. Also did nothing.
- Replaced fuel filter thinking that car had trouble starting due to lack of fuel flow. Still ran the same.
- Then after much reading, found out that a bracket to properly position the crankshaft position sensor is completely missing. WTF. Ordered and will install next week.

If I still have issues, I plan on checking the timing belt to see if it needs to be replaced. If it's not that, perhaps its the VICS not properly set up after the head swap. I'm honestly not too sure. Either way, I'm learning a ton and having a lot of fun doing it! Glad I bought the thing.
Attached Thumbnails First Project Car, Hopefully My Daily Soon-miata.jpg   First Project Car, Hopefully My Daily Soon-80-miata_2f7a473c73dafb4ddc2fccd21abc30811e5ac746.jpg   First Project Car, Hopefully My Daily Soon-80-miata_hood_a225785fc4ae0bcc529b58748711209399b08134.jpg  
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Old 06-18-2016, 12:45 PM
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Dan - another dan here. Great car, looks rough, but for the price and learing on something fun id say you did good. How did you install the crank sensor without the bracket? When you do get the backet, the sensor should be about a credit card width away from the trigger wheel. Did you clear the codes with your scan tool or disconnect the battery for a while and reconnect and check codes again? Crank position sensor wire should not be in contact with belts... Who the f did this?! Even without those covers (i dont run them) it should not be close - secure it somewhere, ****! Rant over - just bothers me that someone half asses something and then dumps it on the next guy... Check the timing! if those covers are missing it should be relatively easy to check timing... As far as the VICS im not sure if they work by some other means that came with them specifically with their original car? Last resort and its a stretch - if all else fails make a fuel pressure gauge and "T" it into the fuel line that feeds from the fuel pump and check pressure. Good luck!
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Old 06-18-2016, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by d.alexander
Dan - another dan here. Great car, looks rough, but for the price and learing on something fun id say you did good. How did you install the crank sensor without the bracket? When you do get the backet, the sensor should be about a credit card width away from the trigger wheel. Did you clear the codes with your scan tool or disconnect the battery for a while and reconnect and check codes again? Crank position sensor wire should not be in contact with belts... Who the f did this?! Even without those covers (i dont run them) it should not be close - secure it somewhere, ****! Rant over - just bothers me that someone half asses something and then dumps it on the next guy... Check the timing! if those covers are missing it should be relatively easy to check timing... As far as the VICS im not sure if they work by some other means that came with them specifically with their original car? Last resort and its a stretch - if all else fails make a fuel pressure gauge and "T" it into the fuel line that feeds from the fuel pump and check pressure. Good luck!
Yeah... not sure if the original modder knew quite what he was doing. I guess there's supposed to be a bracket off the oil pump for the crankshaft sensor but my car had the sensor bolted directly to the oil pump so I was none the wiser until I did more research. It was weird because I was like, "Why doesn't the sensor point towards the crank pulley?" Hopefully this fixes the issue. If not, I think I did enough reading to check/replace the timing belt. I cleared the code using scanner tool.

As for VICS, I think I'm missing the solenoid that should have been put in during the head swap but if necessary, I will get the replacement in. I still don't fully understand how it all works but once I do, troubleshooting the problems should be easier. I don't understand how using a fuel pressure gauge will help so looks like I need to do more reading to keep up with ya!
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:03 PM
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The fuel pressure is far from what is probably causing your issues. It was a last resort because most fuel pumps die, but i have had one that just got weaker and weaker untill it was barely pushing fuel. The gauge basically just makes sure there is sufficient pressure at the fuel rail (again, probably not an issue). Also, does the car have locking lug nuts? Is that what you meant? If so, there SHOULD be a lug key for it. If not, there are a few options to remove them. There's one on each wheel i assume? Do you need turn signal housings?

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Old 06-18-2016, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by d.alexander
The fuel pressure is far from what is probably causing your issues. It was a last resort because most fuel pumps die, but i have had one that just got weaker and weaker untill it was barely pushing fuel. The gauge basically just makes sure there is sufficient pressure at the fuel rail (again, probably not an issue). Also, does the car have locking lug nuts? Is that what you meant? If so, there SHOULD be a lug key for it. If not, there are a few options to remove them. There's one on each wheel i assume? Do you need turn signal housings?
Aaaaaaah, I got ya now on the fuel pressure. I will keep that in mind.

Yeah, trying to score some turning signals from the classifieds here. The orange bulbs are just dangling right now lol!
As for the lug nuts, I think theyre tuner nuts? I'm not entirely sure. Trying to figure it out without buying every kind of key for lug nuts... seems simple just kind of annoying and tedious.
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Old 06-19-2016, 07:00 AM
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perhaps a local speed / custom shop may have a few tuner lug nut sockets and you could try a few to find the one thats right for your nuts! lol had to go there. post some pictures, might help. someone might point you in the right direction.

i have some turn signal housings that i will look for. if i find a left and right in good condition i will let you know


also, just noticed... the red crimp connectors on the cam sensor. and the two vacuum lines on the intake......................... could be causing you some issues.

the cam sensor should be ok as long as its wired correctly, it didn't come as a whole replacement with the pigtail and all?

the vacuum lines are the other hand... mostly the one from the iac (idle air control valve located below the throttle body) looks not only pinched, but being that it is about 6 times longer than the stock one could be causing your idle issues. amongst other things.
best bet: find a local friend with the 1.8 and try his stock intake (instead of throwing $$$ at parts). if you were closer i would help you out

i assume you know the maf sensor is unplugged in this picture?

Last edited by d.alexander; 06-19-2016 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:09 PM
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I'll get those nuts checked out.

I contacted Munky about his part out and should be getting some turn signals from him this week so I'm good in that department, but thanks anyway!

The wires on the CAS were crimped by the PO. He completely replaced his CAS (>$300 part) before realizing it was just the wire connection. LOL! The crimps are on the wires from the harness and not the actual CAS. I will say though, those are some eagle eyes. How in the world you spotted that is beyond me.

As for them hoses... Jesus... I didn't think to try reaching out to others in the Miata community to try out parts to figure out what's wrong. Partially that's because I'm am introvert who doesn't really like asking for help. :P I might try that though. And because that intake is in such a retarded position, I constantly move it out of the way and I always forget to plug the MAF in. Like, without fail. EVERY TIME. Doesn't matter cuz I can't get the damn engine to start anyway. :P I wish I was kinda like a lot of people here with 5 other miatas so I could try swapping parts and whatnot.
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:28 AM
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Having all the cars to run and check helps in a huge way! Any local junk yards? Put the intake back to stock and go from there. Wont start at all now?
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:45 PM
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It will start if I give it gas when I turn the ignition key but the revs usually slow down and the engine shuts off. Sometimes the revs suddenly shoot up and then drop and then engine shuts off. I'm inclined to believe it has to do with timing/position sensor. If not, then I can check fuel flow, and if it's not, check air flow. Just trying to figure out all the parts and how they work together is still a bit confusing.
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:29 AM
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I can't really see what they look like, but you can usually get lug locks off without the key using a socket that is just barely too small to fit over them, and a hammer.
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:16 PM
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what Schuyler said, if you can't find the key or correct tuner lug socket. just be careful if you like the wheels. definitely sounds like a timing issue, also check that the cam sensor is in correctly (while you have the valve cover off to check timing)
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