New kid in town
04-06-2009, 10:05 AM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Central, MA
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New kid in town
Hello everyone,
Just introducing myself. I bought a 92 Miata last fall and quikly relized it was severely lacking in the power dept. I drive an STI with about 360 HP so naturally this thing feels slow but is still fun as hell. I just bought a motor for a turbo build I plan to begin. The bought the motor for $150 still running just low compression in cylinder 3. It had about 130 and all others were in the 170's. Took the head off it last night and all cylinders look really good and can still see the factory hone.
As for my plans:
Block is gonna get checked out and machined (hoping just a hone needed)
Heads are getting 3 angle valve job
Crank is getting checked
Plan on a Begi kit (not sure which) with mega squirt
rods and pistons are still up in the air (etd or eagle and wiesco)
My goals are between 200 and 250 RWHP.
Yes I know there is alot more involved but you get the idea.
Just introducing myself. I bought a 92 Miata last fall and quikly relized it was severely lacking in the power dept. I drive an STI with about 360 HP so naturally this thing feels slow but is still fun as hell. I just bought a motor for a turbo build I plan to begin. The bought the motor for $150 still running just low compression in cylinder 3. It had about 130 and all others were in the 170's. Took the head off it last night and all cylinders look really good and can still see the factory hone.
As for my plans:
Block is gonna get checked out and machined (hoping just a hone needed)
Heads are getting 3 angle valve job
Crank is getting checked
Plan on a Begi kit (not sure which) with mega squirt
rods and pistons are still up in the air (etd or eagle and wiesco)
My goals are between 200 and 250 RWHP.
Yes I know there is alot more involved but you get the idea.
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04-06-2009, 01:22 PM
#8
There is a big difference between 200 and 250whp... A BIG DIFFERENCE.
Since you're going with some headwork and forged internals, you should be shooting for even more than that on the motor... but I highly suggest this motor you're going to build be a 1.8. The FM swap kit is cheap, and the 1.8 offers a lot more performance for the exact same amount of money. You can find blown 1.8's practically for free. Sweet-talk your local wrecking-yard guy and you can probably pick up an entire 1.8 drivetrain for $500.
If you're set on keeping the 1.6, and shooting for 250whp, may I suggest any of the BEGi Series 3+ kits w/MS and a GT260.
Don't forget you'll need to budget for a clutch... the new FM clutches should be the only choice in town once they're proven.
Don't forget big exhaust... there are several production 2.5" and 3" full exhausts if you have no fab skillz.
Don't forget the differential in the 90-93 cars are not going to handle 250whp unless you stick with 195tires... and then some. They are a 6" ring gear and have been broken on stock power. 2.5x stock power and you can break them just pulling away from a stoplight. Something also tells me you're not the kind of guy who "babies" his cars. You'll need at some point to upgrade to a 94+ 7" r&p w/Torsen dif. Open dif's are just as strong, but Torsens get cheaper every day.
Since you're going with some headwork and forged internals, you should be shooting for even more than that on the motor... but I highly suggest this motor you're going to build be a 1.8. The FM swap kit is cheap, and the 1.8 offers a lot more performance for the exact same amount of money. You can find blown 1.8's practically for free. Sweet-talk your local wrecking-yard guy and you can probably pick up an entire 1.8 drivetrain for $500.
If you're set on keeping the 1.6, and shooting for 250whp, may I suggest any of the BEGi Series 3+ kits w/MS and a GT260.
Don't forget you'll need to budget for a clutch... the new FM clutches should be the only choice in town once they're proven.
Don't forget big exhaust... there are several production 2.5" and 3" full exhausts if you have no fab skillz.
Don't forget the differential in the 90-93 cars are not going to handle 250whp unless you stick with 195tires... and then some. They are a 6" ring gear and have been broken on stock power. 2.5x stock power and you can break them just pulling away from a stoplight. Something also tells me you're not the kind of guy who "babies" his cars. You'll need at some point to upgrade to a 94+ 7" r&p w/Torsen dif. Open dif's are just as strong, but Torsens get cheaper every day.
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04-06-2009, 01:51 PM
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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I kinda like the idea of keeping the 1.6. Have looked for a 1.8 but they disappear very quikly in this area.
I am not hard on my cars at all. I'm hard on the miata because thats the only way it will go. No worries I have been looking for a 7" rear diff, flywheel, clutch, exhaust, ems. This is not an overnight build it is gonna take a while.
Is the 1.8 so much better just because of displacement or is there more I am not seeing. I was aslo gonna have my buddy do some p&p work to the head.
I am not hard on my cars at all. I'm hard on the miata because thats the only way it will go. No worries I have been looking for a 7" rear diff, flywheel, clutch, exhaust, ems. This is not an overnight build it is gonna take a while.
Is the 1.8 so much better just because of displacement or is there more I am not seeing. I was aslo gonna have my buddy do some p&p work to the head.
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04-06-2009, 03:14 PM
#13
It's just the motor/tranny mounts... everything else is on you:
Miata SR20
There are lotsa threads on this one at miata.net... just do a title search in all forums for SR20det and SR20.
Miata SR20
There are lotsa threads on this one at miata.net... just do a title search in all forums for SR20det and SR20.
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