Intro
#1
Intro
My name is Dan.
I live in York Pa.
Recently purchased a 1994 1.8l miata.
Back ground on me:
Always been into racing. Started out with racing some atv's tons of fun. Currently in college and was looking into getting a sporty fun import. I stumbled upon my miata. I am a mechanical engineering major and a life time car enthusiast. As soon as I started thinking about a import I was planning on forced induction. Spent many a night looking through all of the current posts and feel like I am only scratching the surface. I am glad to be a member and hope that I can learn a lot and help others out with the experiences that I have working on my miata.
And now ...car info time:
As I said 94 1.8l miata. Runs and drive beautiful.
The bad:
cylinder 1:172 psi
cylinder 2: 170 psi
cylinder 3: 162 psi
cylinder 4: 170 psi
The good:
I live in York Pa.
Recently purchased a 1994 1.8l miata.
Back ground on me:
Always been into racing. Started out with racing some atv's tons of fun. Currently in college and was looking into getting a sporty fun import. I stumbled upon my miata. I am a mechanical engineering major and a life time car enthusiast. As soon as I started thinking about a import I was planning on forced induction. Spent many a night looking through all of the current posts and feel like I am only scratching the surface. I am glad to be a member and hope that I can learn a lot and help others out with the experiences that I have working on my miata.
And now ...car info time:
As I said 94 1.8l miata. Runs and drive beautiful.
The bad:
- fixed e brake
- fixed exhaust leak
- minor dents and dings
- top is getting tired
- heat does not work currently plugged
- leaking oil at the back of the cylinder head don't know for sure which seal is giving me this issue but my guess is the CAS gasket
cylinder 1:172 psi
cylinder 2: 170 psi
cylinder 3: 162 psi
cylinder 4: 170 psi
The good:
- great interior
- Lower mileage
- Raceland coil overs
- no rust
- MS 3 and wide band o2
- FM turbo kit probably without the turbo from them it seems a bit over priced. I am thinking I could find a solid T25 and rebuild if necessary
- Stage 1 goal power 175 whp
- Stage 2 goal power 225 whp
- Stage 3 goal power 325+ whp (long term goal I know I will need to build the engine for this and do tons of research)
#4
- Stage 1 goal power 175 whp
- Stage 2 goal power 225 whp
- Stage 3 goal power 325+ whp (long term goal I know I will need to build the engine for this and do tons of research)
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#5
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Our EFR kit seems expensive on the face of it, but it will save you money in the long run. Any FM-based kit that you buy today for 175whp will have to be altered a bunch to make 325whp (new downpipe, new turbo at minimum). Our EFR6258 will make 180whp just like a GT2560R does, and then it will make 325whp just like a GT2863R does, without spending a dime on the hotside parts.
#9
Hey I have been doing some asking around at some local tuners and have heard that certain shops only like to tune what they consider healthy motors. The compression numbers from my test are on the lower end of what some places like to see. Should I be concerned about introducing boost with the results from my current compression test ?
Compression test results:
cylinder 1:172 psi
cylinder 2: 170 psi
cylinder 3: 162 psi
cylinder 4: 170 psi
Compression test results:
cylinder 1:172 psi
cylinder 2: 170 psi
cylinder 3: 162 psi
cylinder 4: 170 psi
#13
Thanks for the replys. The engine was warm during testing but the temp was dropping towards cylinder 3 and 4. The test was done dry. I need to fix some oil leaks around the cas sensor this weekend and while I am at it I plan on testing the compression again both wet and dry.
The car is not my daily so boosting right away would be possibly as opposed to a build at the start.
Do you see any significant lack in performance/boost due to the blow by?
The car is not my daily so boosting right away would be possibly as opposed to a build at the start.
Do you see any significant lack in performance/boost due to the blow by?
#14
Why not just do a leakdown at this point.
I'd probably consider setting up the electronics side of your car and build a bottom end on the side. This will give you plenty of time to tinker with Megasquirt and fix your other issues, then when you have all the turbo bits ready to go swap it in with the new motor. You'd likely be getting a new clutch anyway so half the battle is over at the time of the swap.
I'd probably consider setting up the electronics side of your car and build a bottom end on the side. This will give you plenty of time to tinker with Megasquirt and fix your other issues, then when you have all the turbo bits ready to go swap it in with the new motor. You'd likely be getting a new clutch anyway so half the battle is over at the time of the swap.