View Poll Results: Any years recommended over others for easiest/cheapest modifications, autoX
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 18. You may not vote on this poll
newbie
#1
newbie
Hey there, just wanted to say hi. I'm still shopping for my first miata. I'm leaning on 94/95/99's and waiting for the right price.
I've seen a couple of the interested na's for about $4000 and the 99's for $5-6.5k. They all have power everything which I'm believing comes w/torsen LSD (the big item I'm interested in already having in it) so it's a matter of I guess checking out how they run. Start up ease, any exhaust smoke, throttle noise, gear changes, body condition... Are there certain things I should take care to look more carefully in the purchase? I've never bought a used car before and have relied on warranties to cover anything that would have come up.
Thanks!
I've seen a couple of the interested na's for about $4000 and the 99's for $5-6.5k. They all have power everything which I'm believing comes w/torsen LSD (the big item I'm interested in already having in it) so it's a matter of I guess checking out how they run. Start up ease, any exhaust smoke, throttle noise, gear changes, body condition... Are there certain things I should take care to look more carefully in the purchase? I've never bought a used car before and have relied on warranties to cover anything that would have come up.
Thanks!
#3
dud
well it turned out the 95' has some paintovers where you can see the rust flaking. It was on the back driver's rear panel near the door area. Antenna didn't move, brakes weren't responsive, driver's power window was about 4x slower than the passenger's. Additionally didn't want to budge anywhere below 4500.
#4
Elite Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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the pros:
90-93: lots of cheap used greddy kits floating around, no EGR so more lax emissions requirements
90-94: real oil pressure gauge
94+: bigger motor, better synchros, bigger brakes, more bracing, bigger/better/stronger diff
90-95.5: OBDI, oil feed right on driver side of block for turbo, lower compression(= better for turbo to avoid detonation)
90-97: MSPNP available, a dime a dozen
99-00: better head design
90-93: lots of cheap used greddy kits floating around, no EGR so more lax emissions requirements
90-94: real oil pressure gauge
94+: bigger motor, better synchros, bigger brakes, more bracing, bigger/better/stronger diff
90-95.5: OBDI, oil feed right on driver side of block for turbo, lower compression(= better for turbo to avoid detonation)
90-97: MSPNP available, a dime a dozen
99-00: better head design
#5
good summation for initial questions. thanks!
i've been leaning towards 94/95, but occassionally move over to 99's when the pricing seems attractive.
Currently searching for perfect 99's under $5500, and great condition 94/95's for under... $4000. You think any of the prices are unrealistic or can be easily gotten for cheaper? I don't mind waiting several weeks to pick up the "right car for an amazing price". :-)
i've been leaning towards 94/95, but occassionally move over to 99's when the pricing seems attractive.
Currently searching for perfect 99's under $5500, and great condition 94/95's for under... $4000. You think any of the prices are unrealistic or can be easily gotten for cheaper? I don't mind waiting several weeks to pick up the "right car for an amazing price". :-)
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