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01 VVT Turbo build

Old 02-19-2017, 03:07 PM
  #21  
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Also, could someone tell me what resistance should I set the R56 pot, cause i have lost my count on the turns.
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Old 02-28-2017, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by shuiend
This is the answer. It will tell you everything you need to buy and how to assemble it all.

Could you help me with some information please? My MS is up and running on test mode, but have a few questions. Everyone seems to be ignoring my questions at the end of this post.

Thank you for any leads.
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:10 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Bara83
Ive read a bunch, and dont know who's wiring harness build should I follow? Help?
Also still waiting on the jimstim troubleshoot help....
JimStim v1.5 Assembly Instructions
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Old 03-01-2017, 09:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by bahurd
Thank you Bahurd, I figured the Jimstim out already. Can you help me with the potentio meter settings? Like can anyone give me an exact ohm measurement on the pots?
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Old 03-02-2017, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bara83
Thank you Bahurd, I figured the Jimstim out already. Can you help me with the potentio meter settings? Like can anyone give me an exact ohm measurement on the pots?
I didn't build mine, but looking over some of the DIY stuff I read this: "
The trim pots on a V3.0 board take about 18 turns from fully off to maximum value, and you can often hear a click when they reach the end of their travel. The V3.57 pots are about 6 turns end to end, and they just free-spin after you reach the end of their travel. If you’re not sure where you are with the pot on a V3.57, give it six turns counterclockwise to get back to zero. MS3X trim pots work the same way as V3.57 trim pots. Note that you can’t actually measure the hysteresis or trigger voltages directly.
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...megasquirt-vr/

I also think you can use the Jimstim to adjust the signal?

Using the Tooth Logger or Composite Logger to adjust the VR conditioner

If you don’t have an oscilloscope, the tuning software has a couple of different tools you can use to get things adjusted. The Tooth Logger is available in TunerStudio and MegaTunix, and works for MS1/Extra, MS2/Extra, or MS3. It displays just the crank trigger. The Composite Logger is a feature of TunerStudio and works for MS2/Extra and MS3. The Composite Logger looks like an output signal on the oscilloscope. Using either one requires you to know what the signal coming in should look like. Like with an oscilloscope, you should start with R56 and R52 (R11 and R32 on an MS3X) fully counterclockwise.

The Tooth Logger displays the time between signals, and works best for basic missing tooth wheels. With one of these, you should see one small bar for every real tooth, and a single large bar for the missing tooth. If there is one missing tooth, the bar is twice the height of the others; it’s three times the height for two missing teeth. If you see a bunch of other, teeny-tiny bars, turn R56 (R11 for the MS3X) clockwise until they go away. If the extra tall bar is replaced by two extra tall bars, the sensor is wired backwards.

Using the Composite Logger requires knowing what the pattern should look like. If you are seeing pulses that shouldn’t be there, turn R56 clockwise until they disappear. If pulses that should be there show up,turn R56 counterclockwise until you see them. Hysteresis adjustment with the Composite Logger is the same as with an oscilloscope – turn up R52 (R32 on the MS3X) if you see extra pulses at the edges, like this.
Maybe someone like @aidandj could pop in.
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Old 03-02-2017, 04:08 PM
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You can turn the pot a bunch in one direction, and it will max out.

https://trubokitty.com/#/ms3xassembly

So for R56, turn it 12 times or more counter clockwise, and that will reset it to its max (or min) value, and then turn it 7.5 turns CC

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Old 03-04-2017, 09:15 PM
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You guys are awesome! Thank you very much. Sadly, Im getting lost in the language way too often. Well Im going to finish my harness tomorrow. Need to figure a way out to merge 3 cables into one since X24 is being used 3x.
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:29 PM
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I might have had some eyesight problem or the wiring diagram changed. Vtcs goes to x25, and low battery goes somewhere else too. Soon my wiring is done. I'm going to recheck it. The Miata is up and running on forged internals. Did the coolant reroute too. Didn't drive it yet since I have a hash in my soft top and it's raining in OH. This was a work in progress haha.
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Old 05-24-2017, 12:40 PM
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Well after some other car builds, finnaly came back to finish my own car. Should be able to start it Friday night.

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Old 05-26-2017, 07:00 AM
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So I have two issues so far, one of them seems to be related to the vr pots, found Brain settings on the forum ( my car won't rev over 3k ).
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ar-msx3-72310/ #14, this doesnt apply for me since on my board I have one adjustable and 2 on the expansion board. I think im going to log whats happening. Sitting a bit clueless.
The other problem is, it wants to idle super high with the IAC plugged in. It revs up hits 3k drops down a little, revs up drops down endlessly around 3k almost 4k. Going to adjust the pots again and see. Any leads, Braineack?

Thank you very much.

Last edited by Bara83; 05-26-2017 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 05-27-2017, 04:07 PM
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Attached a log from missing sync over 3k rpm. I dont understand how to adjust for this sensation.

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please help if you guys have a minute.
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Old 05-27-2017, 08:53 PM
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Changed my 36-2 trigger wheel to the oem one. No more sync loss, but 1 and 4 quit firing. Both coils have 12 volts on the connectors and I swapped them and they both work in 2-3 position. God help me with this car.
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Old 05-27-2017, 10:12 PM
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Bombing my own tread, so one coil is dead. Getting a new one tomorrow.
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