Ben

iTrader: (33)

Well, yeah it does. And the jumper is enabled by default.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

Launch control is not turned on in software by default.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I turned it on in the software and it doesn't work. So if it's not the jumper, then I have a defective unit?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/docs/mspnp_gP_genInstall.php?isModel=2

Not on this page? I can't figure out how you got to that page you linked.

Matt Cramer

More likely you have a defective clutch switch.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

wait wait wait, so I still need to wire in a switch to 5w/5x to be able to use LC with the oem clutch switch?
I never wired in any switches, I just thought it would work when enabled just like rev/brain built ms3's I used before.

I think I see what Im missing now, sorry for confusion.

*Edit: and aidan, it looks like they're updating the documentation daily, cause I'm seeing new things on there every time I visit the site, and none of it is in my documentation that was provided with the MS unit.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Makes sense.

Testing your clutch switch is real easy too. Just check continuity to ground on the clutch switch pin (3l maybe?). Press the clutch and it should go to ground.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i wire "launch in" directly to the clutch switch.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Nothing needs to be wired in. The jumper selects between the clutch switch or an external switch. So set the jumper and use the clutch switch.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'm just saying that on my patch harness I wire it directly--he has to make sure the jumpers are correct on his PNP-PRO unit.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

According to that page Ben posted another switch needs to be wired in even when using the clutch switch.
And according to what Ben/Matt are saying the jumper should already be in the default oem clutch switch orientation.

Matt, I highly doubt my clutch switch is bad. Just like I highly doubted my oem AIT was bad (and it was fine, it was the MS settings that were way off). My car is 72k miles perfect condition CA car that was never modded before. I am 10000000% sure it's either the ms or the settings or I'm just confused.

The "evolving" documentation is really frustrating.....Is there a manual for this thing somewhere that goes into detail about ALL the options/features and not just getting the car to start on a base map and leaving the rest to figure out?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Bottom line: what exactly needs to be done to enable LC on my car with the OEM clutch switch?
IF the jumper is supposed to be set up for the OE clutch switch
and
If no other switch is needed if using the OE clutch switch
and
If it's literally going into TS and "enable LC", I've done it, and it doesn't work.

what do?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

From this to me it looks like you should just have to enable it. You could try and connect 5w and 5x. And test your clutch switch. If none of those work then I'm out.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you have 5w and 5x jumpered?

curly

iTrader: (25)

If we had defective clutch switches, the car wouldn't start. It's the same switch for the starter interlock.

I've had a few units now that require extra wiring. It's something in the pinout, not the user's car.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

No, you are mis-reading. If jumper J6 is enabled (which is default), your factory clutch switch will arm launch control. If you prefer a remote switch, remove J6 and wire per the directions.

The documentation on the site did not change.

Do you see the flag at the bottom of tunerstudio called "Launch"? If launch control is turned on, it will turn green when you push the clutch pedal. Take a screen shot of your launch settings for me, please.



Note the 2 other Miatas in the parking lot at the end of the video. I tested this feature in all 3, among others.



Wrong. The starter interlock is an entirely different switch on the clutch pedal.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Thanks Ben, will do.

I looked for that button on the bottom even before I made this thread, nothing illuminates with LC enabled and clutch pushed in, which is why I was so confused. I'll get screen shots tonight.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Interesting, so I'm assuming it's a simple on/off switch, easily checked for continuity?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Yes,

Joe P posted up a good picture the other day. (Or did I just read it the other day)

From what I got, the green is the ECU switch, so its active right when you press the pedal a little bit, and the starter interlock switch is all the way at the bottom, hence the reason you have to push it all the way down to start it.



From here

curly

iTrader: (25)

So my MSM project is finally up and running on the MSpro, I used an old O2 sensor plug to send the white wire from my AEM uego to the blue wire of the plug, it's an easy enough switch come emissions time.

So am I to understand that the MS now controls the speedometer? That's cool since it seems like Mazda put the wrong sensors with the wrong cars half the time. I'm guessing we mess with wheel diameter and # pulses per mile?

Speaking of things that can be fixed, VSS, under gear detection, it might be smart to plug in values. Default has 5 speed selected, and under the 6 speed menu, it has two over drive gears. All MSMs have the same 4.1 rear diff and 6 speed ratios. Maybe for the 01-05 mspro you could plug in the right values for 5 and 6 speeds too.

So what is High Current Out 2? It's set to turn on at an RPM higher than 3700. Is that not VTCS now?

What are these magical numbers from this magical thread? Please show link or values? Can't get mine off -21* after sending "Mazda" values.

Responding to this picture late, but oh well. I've always hooked up LC to the the red switch, which is why I said "if our switch was broken our cars wouldn't start", but am I to understand the default "LC" pin uses the upper/green/cruise control switch?

curly

iTrader: (25)

Last question: I have my FIC injectors here, I'm assuming we use the 58psi/4.0bar fuel pressure setting of 831 for the returnless MSMs?