cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

That is basically the same as the 99s crank pulley assembly.
Replace 11-414 with the timing wheel and remove 404 and 408 they don't exist on a 99.

Im going to the junkyard right now, might be something laying around that could answer your questions.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

There's a 1.6 on the forklift in the back right now, but I have no way of taking precision measurements.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

It doesn't have to be micrometer-accurate, I'd settle for a ruler marked in 16'ths. I just need to know what size piece of aluminum stock to purchase- the biggest bar I've got on the metal shelf right now is 2.375", and I know it's bigger than this. The question is between 2.625" and 2.75" diameter and I need depth of dish to the nearest 1/4" or so. Just trying to buy the smallest piece of pre-cut stock I can, to minimize the amount of machining necessary.

I don't want an NB wheel, quite honestly. I'd still have to use a cam sensor, and I'm really just trying to go with a proper 36-1 wheel setup. I've decided that I can use the 4" wheel that DIY sells, and make the center hub the same diameter as the big washer, then use the four bolts to hold both the hub and the wheel on. It'll give me less adjustability (basically it'll need to be close to dead-on-***** the first time, all adjustment will be in the sensor rather than the wheel) but it means I can build the whole thing at home with the lathe that I have.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

I was comparing the two just for the sake of filling this thread with information for all to read in the future. I am going to the junk yard though, they have 1.6 motors and i have a vernier.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Hey- if they've got a longnose 1.6 at the yard you're going to (we don't locally) could you buy the whole pulley assembly for me to use as a reference? Ideally, I'd like everything from the timing belt gear all the way to the outer washer with the four bolts, including the big bolt that holds the package to the crank. (I hate to keep using you as a parts bitch, but our local yard is slim pickens and you appear to have a goldmine on your hands)

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Looks like they're all short nose in this yard. I know a guy in east TN that might be able to help though. He sells most his stuff on ebay. miata_godfather at yahoo dot com
Send him a message, he replies same day most the time. I know he has quite a few miatas around.

The_Pipefather

iTrader: (5)

Can we do a groupbuy on the 1.6 longnose version of the adapter, maybe from emachineshop? Assuming Joe has been able to make a drawing of it?

M-Tuned

iTrader: (6)

I still have my old TECII wheel (Shiv) kit and bracket (now uses a GM sensor) from my old car. I'm all ears to this thread, it would be great to use it versus a CAS in the future.

I also might have some pulley assemblies at home. Hopefully I did not throw them out last year.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Well, if there is a huge outpouring of support (I think we'd need at least 10 confirmed orders to make it worthwhile, the more the cheaper) then I'll be happy to design the part and manage the order. We'd probably need to all agree on a specific trigger wheel for it to really work as a bolt-on. Looking at the parts diagrams, I think it might be possible for one hub to fit all the NAs, but I'd need people to donate a complete shortnose assembly, a complete '94-'95 assembly, and a complete '96-'97 assembly to verify that. Everything from the timing belt gear to the four 6mm bolts.

For the moment, I am moving forward building one for myself. I think I've figured out how to do it with 2.75" diameter 6061 stock which will fit my lathe. The metal should be in tomorrow, along with some longer bolts. (Have you ever tried to find class 10.9 M6x70 bolts locally? It's impossible.) The sensor is going to be a Ford part, either a mid '90s 1.9 Escort or a mid '90s V6 Taurus. They are electrically the same but have a different mounting scheme. I've ordered one of each to see which fits best.

On a happy note, two packages arrived today. The first is a ChinaCo Model 2090 40Mhz 2-channel USB-based PC oscilloscope. I got tired of fighting with the old Tektronix TDS-420A that I've been using. It was a truly awesome scope in its day (even used they sell for up to $2,000) but it's absolutely friggin' massive, it won't run on batteries, the floppy drive is dead, and it doesn't do logging. The new one, despite costing a paltry $240, seems to work pretty well. The software is pretty easy to use, it seems accurate, and it even came with a very nice set of 1x/10x probes that, apart from having only a 60Mhz rating, are damn near indistinguishable from a $300 set of Tek P3010s.

The other big ticket item is my new crankwheel from DIY. It's the little one- only four inches. I'd have preferred a 5" wheel, but couldn't find one anywhere (in the US) in 36-1 and from an electrical standpoint I didn't want to deal with 60-2. Once I saw it, however, I couldn't believe how small it was:



On the plus side, it should clear my BOV (which is right next to the pulley) with no problems and it'll hopefully make fabricating the sensor mount just a bit easier. We'll see when the time comes how that goes. I'm just hoping I can get a clean signal out of such small teeth. Once the hub is semi-complete, I'll spin the wheel on the lathe while scoping the sensor to make sure I've got a usable signal before proceeding further.

The_Pipefather

iTrader: (5)

Ok. I thought 60-2 was the preferred one over 36-1. Any reason not to go that route? I also saw some Tec 60-2 wheels on ebay.

How about setting up a group buy in the classified to gauge interest.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

would it be worth swapping my 9093mspnp to the crank trigger on my 99 motor?

Matt Cramer

MS1/Extra doesn't gain any improvement from a 60-2 over a 36-1. For an MSPNP, you'd need an optical or Hall effect sensor rather than a VR sensor.

Stealth97

iTrader: (5)

I dont want to be a gunea pig, but if a "kit" comes out of it I definitely want in. Even if the extra accuracy is only worth a couple hp than it is worth it on my setup.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

The higher the toothcount of the wheel, the higher the fundamental frequency of the signal you're working with. All else being equal, it is easier to work with a lower frequency signal, particularly when you're in a noisy environment trying to do accurate threshold detection.

Indeed. Technically, a 4-1 wheel would be ideal, only nobody makes one that I can find.

Wait a sec... Matt, would I be crazy if I ground all but three of the teeth off the wheel I just bought from you? I mean, how critical is the balancing situation? Nah... Stupid idea.

Insofar as the Hall vs. VR situation, I am planning to build the VR circuit for my system in an external box. The primary driver in my case is to make it easier to probe and modify, but adapting this concept for others would permit MSPNP owners to use a traditional VR sensor, simply by using this circuit as an external logic-level converter. They'd have to snip one wire in the factory harness (CKP), and splice into two others (VREF and GND).

Also, FWIW, I'm pretty sure the stock NB crank and cam sensors use open collector output, just like the NA CAS.

Everyone involved will be a guinea pig. And I still haven't figured out exactly how to mount the sensor. I know approximately where mine is going to go, but the actual mounting scheme is probably going to look like quite a hack-job. Not something I'd want to sell to others.

M-Tuned

iTrader: (6)

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Mazda-Miata-MX5-C...QQcmdZViewItem

Very cool idea.. I like this..

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Hell, I finally finished all the machine work last night for my very complex crank wheel, and now I see this...