300zxrb26dett

iTrader: (6)

So I bought all the parts recently to upgrade my MS1extra to a full MS3/3X. After looking through the MS3 assembly manual it appears that my mainboard has some stuff missing and/or different functions going on from who originally built it. It was built with VAF delete, idle control, flatshift, and ground switch according to the label on it and I assume that is what controls the VICS solenoid.

I plan to run COP's and sequential fuel. Also since this car was originally equipped with a Ford engine, and Ford controlled all A/C and fan functions including WOT cutout through the ECU, all the wiring is there in the body ready to go so making it work with MS should be as easy as reconnecting the wires to the correct pins on the M/S.

What I want to achieve:

Sequential fuel and COP's
Fan control through the MS
A/C control through the MS
Make drive ability as smooth as possible. The Ford ECU utilized clutch, neutral, BOO, blower fan switch, power steering etc for inputs.

My questions: Can the MS utilize all those inputs to help it achieve a better level of tune and do I need to modify it in anyway to use them?

Do I need to modify anything to utilize the A/C and fan controls I want?

Parts list:

36-1 protege wheel
97 protege crank sensor (looks identical to the 96-97 miata)
Modify my distributor or purchase a CAS?
Toyota COPS and all associated wiring connectors

Correct parts? yes? no?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

get an expander board and you don't have to build circuits or "mod" anything.

But I'd populate the mainboard with the VR input circuit as opposed to the opto in you are using now.

300zxrb26dett

iTrader: (6)

I actually did buy the expander board, but I just wanted to make sure there was nothing that needed modded on the main board to achieve my results. Do I need to remove any of the old mods or just swap out the opto for the vr circuit?

Also does my parts list look ok?
and about using the CAS I didnt find any specific threads about it. Does it need modified for full sequential or just install as is?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yes, I'd remove every white wire and extra diode, fet, jumper, resistor, etc.

what list?

as is.

300zxrb26dett

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the help. Should be fun removing that stuff since the original builder put what appears to be hot glue all over the place.

The parts list is located in the first post right above the pictures.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

if you have trouble removing hot glue, you need to start using one of these:

300zxrb26dett

iTrader: (6)

Lol, I thought it would leave residue and be a pain to get off.

Now that I think about it, the crank sensor I listed in the first post should work fine, its just a matter of the settings in MS for it to work, correct?

300zxrb26dett

iTrader: (6)

I have another question.

Is there any difference between using a cam sensor similar to the ones on a 99 and up miata vs using a CAS?

What is the difference between using a 36-1, 36-2, 60-1, or a 60-2 crank wheel? Does the higher tooth count mean more accuracy?

300zxrb26dett

iTrader: (6)

So I did what brain said and then I added some components to build it according to the manual.

Should I do the tests listed in the manual to make sure all is well before adding the MS3 card or just proceed since this was already a functioning unit before?

Dont mind the soldering its my first try and I havnt clipped off the excess wire from the added components yet