Abe's NB-MSII Adapterboard/PnP
#42
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Ok, time for an update. After trying it on several people's cars with bad wiring, unknown sensors, etc, and waiting several weeks for people who said they would let me test on their cars, I spent half a morning getting all the wires sorted on my car, and kinda started to do a test.
Results (good):
TPS, CLT, and similar sensors all worked.
Ignition inputs seem to work
Car will try to start, sort of catch, cough, and die again.
Results (bad):
I think the FAN, VICS, and IDLE are all messed up. Not sure. The fans are on, and I didn't figure out why yet. The VICS actually seems to be working, but it's hard to tell since I need 5000 RPM to make it switch (I could change it in software, but that's not what's limiting me)
The idle valve isn't humming, which tells me there's a real problem, and yes, one which would keep it from starting.
Also, thanks to the MSe people, I'm having real troubles finding matching versions of everything. Sometimes things are by date, sometimes by version number, sometimes they report the wrong info. Right now I seem to have version 2.1.0o in the computer and 2.1.0p in the software - I don't care what version I use, I just with it were consistent, at the same time I don't want to change the one on my regular DD MS, so I can still get to the beach. :-)
Anyway, I'm going to take this board to the lab and debug it - I can power it off my voltage "ref" lines, so I don't really need a jimstim. that part is cool. Will keep everyone posted. Thanks all!
-Abe.
Results (good):
TPS, CLT, and similar sensors all worked.
Ignition inputs seem to work
Car will try to start, sort of catch, cough, and die again.
Results (bad):
I think the FAN, VICS, and IDLE are all messed up. Not sure. The fans are on, and I didn't figure out why yet. The VICS actually seems to be working, but it's hard to tell since I need 5000 RPM to make it switch (I could change it in software, but that's not what's limiting me)
The idle valve isn't humming, which tells me there's a real problem, and yes, one which would keep it from starting.
Also, thanks to the MSe people, I'm having real troubles finding matching versions of everything. Sometimes things are by date, sometimes by version number, sometimes they report the wrong info. Right now I seem to have version 2.1.0o in the computer and 2.1.0p in the software - I don't care what version I use, I just with it were consistent, at the same time I don't want to change the one on my regular DD MS, so I can still get to the beach. :-)
Anyway, I'm going to take this board to the lab and debug it - I can power it off my voltage "ref" lines, so I don't really need a jimstim. that part is cool. Will keep everyone posted. Thanks all!
-Abe.
#44
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Ok, interesting, my pulse widths seem to be at 33 ms. 33 ms on start up, with 100* coolant? What the hell? That's 550 cc injectors (req fuel 6.0).
Something is weird. Any ideas?
edit: That's on the Stim, my board/car isn't invovled.
Something is weird. Any ideas?
edit: That's on the Stim, my board/car isn't invovled.
Last edited by AbeFM; 07-25-2009 at 08:04 PM.
#46
For the idle, would it be possible to do the mod on the main board, then just pass the line directly to the adapterboard then to the harness plug? maybe that might clear up the idle problem?
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Just got back to it, I think I'm going to dig a bit. Looks like the idle is working on the Stim (so the MS is ok there), but not on my board. So I think it's two unrelated problems.
#52
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I just want to say how amazingly awesome the little row of signal interrupts is. :-) I've been able to put the jimstim in in parallel, making debugging both the code and the board much more easy.
I'm not as much a fan of my jumping the idle valve transistor, since, if you plug it right into the stim, the CPU has to sink all the current from the LED, which is fails to do, dropping the LED to only ~2.3V. Won't be doing much more of that!
-Abe.
P.S. For those keeping track, the idle valve seems to be working (if not the MS's "idle valve test" function - not sure why yet), so now I need to check I didn't just make a no-brainer mistake and put the idle out on the wrong OEM harness pin.
I'm not as much a fan of my jumping the idle valve transistor, since, if you plug it right into the stim, the CPU has to sink all the current from the LED, which is fails to do, dropping the LED to only ~2.3V. Won't be doing much more of that!
-Abe.
P.S. For those keeping track, the idle valve seems to be working (if not the MS's "idle valve test" function - not sure why yet), so now I need to check I didn't just make a no-brainer mistake and put the idle out on the wrong OEM harness pin.
#55
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Everything's on the right pin, and the signals pulls through fine - I pulled it up with a resistor and it acts as it should. Perhaps it IS working, it just seems more quiet than before.
What's got me more concerned is this factor of ten in the fuel delivery, and the fact that one of the two ignition LED's never quite goes off. This is more trouble shooting the MS than the board!
-Abe.
What's got me more concerned is this factor of ten in the fuel delivery, and the fact that one of the two ignition LED's never quite goes off. This is more trouble shooting the MS than the board!
-Abe.
#56
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Ok, new transistors are on the way, I should have everything I need to kit whole boards here within a week. Hopefully by then I get it running on my car, find a volunteer to verify the alternator and AC controls work, and could get stuff out to all of you soon! Very happy about this, and not just because I need the space. :-)
#57
Ok, new transistors are on the way, I should have everything I need to kit whole boards here within a week. Hopefully by then I get it running on my car, find a volunteer to verify the alternator and AC controls work, and could get stuff out to all of you soon! Very happy about this, and not just because I need the space. :-)
#59
What was the earlier problem with the pulse widths related to? Wrong type of transistor?
Thanks a bunch for doing this, I've been aching to get MSII set up, trying to read up on Frank's way, but his modifications look very tedious to set up and getting the correct parts might be a pain too.
Speaking of alternator circuit, Frank said that the alternator circuit on his board worked IIRC, so it should work just fine
Thanks a bunch for doing this, I've been aching to get MSII set up, trying to read up on Frank's way, but his modifications look very tedious to set up and getting the correct parts might be a pain too.
Speaking of alternator circuit, Frank said that the alternator circuit on his board worked IIRC, so it should work just fine
Last edited by Marc D; 07-31-2009 at 11:10 PM.
#60
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Woo-Hoo!
At the risk of jinxing myself... The pulse widths were from taking my MSQ and putting in to an MS built differently.
My knock sensor in line was *shared* with the barometeric correction. So, any bouncing on the line moved the fuel all over the place. In software I set baro to initial read, and put the knock on it's own pin (and set the internal pullup - nice of them to include it in software) and all is well.
Now everything looks right on the stim. Time to wedge it into my car once more, and try to track down the idle thing, then I'm all good.
-Abe.
My knock sensor in line was *shared* with the barometeric correction. So, any bouncing on the line moved the fuel all over the place. In software I set baro to initial read, and put the knock on it's own pin (and set the internal pullup - nice of them to include it in software) and all is well.
Now everything looks right on the stim. Time to wedge it into my car once more, and try to track down the idle thing, then I'm all good.
-Abe.