FartTroll

So I finally finished up my turbo build, and it doesn't start. It cranks and occasionally makes a few pops. I was hoping that someone would be oh so very kind enough to possibly look at my basemap and see if anything looks awry.

My specs are:
'95 1.8l
MS2/v3
460cc injectors
open IAT
No MAF

Thanks a bunch

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Flip the spark plugs leads around so that you're not 180° out of phase on the firing order.

In other words, remove the spark plug wires (at the coil end) from 1 & 4, move the 2 & 3 wires over to that coil, and then re-install the 1 & 4 leads over on the coil that 2 & 3 came off of.


Post a datalog of cranking, in case it's something less obvious, like a bad CAS signal.

I'm not at a PC where I have access to TunerStudio right now, but have you verified your cranking fuel settings against a known-working MSQ to ensure that they're at least approximately within reason?

Also, did this engine ever run previously on the MS, before you tore everything apart and installed the turbo system, or did you just change everything all at the same time?

soviet

iTrader: (10)

No fuel, no spark or no tach signal?

FartTroll

Well, holy ****. It started. Does that mean the MS is wired incorrectly (brown and yellow wire switched or something, I didn't build it, Reverent did)?

And here's the datalog of when I switched the coil plugs around. You guys are simply brilliant.

Also, my tach wasn't working, not sure if it was related or not.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Well, "wired incorrectly" is kind of a strong phrase. It was wired backwards relative to your configuration. I'm not certain about MS2, but on MS1, you can configure the spark outputs either way (eg: such that spark A = 1/4 and B = 2/3, or vise-versa). This is probably the biggest single cause of no-starts on newly installed units.


Yes, I know.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

you probably just mixed up the connectors on the coilpack. that has the same effect, right?

FartTroll

Haven't touched the coilpack (well, except for today when I switched them).

So, as it stands right now, should I change the spark output setting that might exist (which I cannot find, I would give you massive e-kudos for a screenshot) or should I leave the coilpacks switched?

FartTroll

So, in regards to my tach, I set the tachoutput to IAC1 because my miata is a 4pin at the coilpack, and I still can't get the tach to come alive.

Anyone have any suggestions? Please

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

The tacho circuit is built on the D15 (WLED) output, not on IAC1 (which controls the main fan). I've listed the configuration in the XLS I sent you.

Btw per our communication I thought we had concluded that your car was a early 95, so the tach signal is generated by the coils and not by the MS - which is why the tacho signal is not brought over to the stock harness. You can find the tacho signal on the YELLOW wire on the small DB-15 connector.

FartTroll

Although I could be mistaken, I'm fairly certain that we concluded that it was the 4pin. I've since then cleared my sent box, and it is unfortunately not in my email either (only received messages).

Regardless, what exactly will I have to do with the yellow wire in order to get my tach working? Also, thanks a bunch for your help. I really do appreciate it.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, the 4-pin coilpack generates the tacho signal. You can connect the yellow wire to 2I on the connectorboard - that should do it. Also remember to change the tacho output to D15.

FartTroll

Here? Because there isn't a connector that even plugs into any of the "2's"

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Sorry, I meant 4I. There should be a black/white wire on the stock harness on that pin.

FartTroll

It worked great reverant, thanks a ton for your help!