Matt Cramer

What are the ADC readings at full and closed throttle?

Make sure it's calibrated for your wideband under Tools -> Calibrate AFR Table.

Please post a screen shot or the full text of this error message. I'll have a look at it.

xitsam

It writes this error for the Boost Controller, i will make a screenshot, but this is the only what is writing.

What do you mean with ADC? hm
If i go to Calibrate TPS there are same linke MSPNP two buttons (Get current...) and in booth cells are a number over 200, and the blue beam, is zapping a bit up and down.

When i press get current on closed i have a number of ~223, when i go to full throttle the the number goes up to ~230

I had calibratet the WB, but i will try that again, next time.
I am not sure, with the BaseMap you posted on Diyautotune, i yuse this for a setup for the 1.6 Engine, are there some diffrentces?.

The Car is running, without MAF, Stock Coils, Techedge WB, Miata TPS (automatic).

Matt Cramer

I think your TPS is wired wrong. Check the voltage on the pin you're using to bring the TPS signal into the DIYPNP.

It's a 1.8 map but should be close enough to get you started.

xitsam

But on MSPNP 90-93 works the TPS fine, without errors

FoundSoul

iTrader: (5)

So I guess you've added a VTPS to your 90-93 Miata and you have a modified MSPNP MM9093 that the TPS is working fine with?

If so, it would seem to me that something is miswired internally in the DIYPNP that is preventing your TPS from working properly. Your TPS should swing across a much broader range than 7ADC.

xitsam

Yes i was made the mod on mspnp.
I will check the internal of diypnp.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I'm converting my dynotuned spark map from my LINK to Tunerstudio. What should I adjust my 10 kpa row, or should I remove it? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I know it's conservative up high, but I never boosted into those levels. I pretty much stayed below 200 kpa. This map should have zero knock in it for my car.



Anyone know how to convert the LINK fuel table values to MS fuel table values. I paid good money for the fuel table that I have and would like to keep it.

xitsam

What can be wrong, i have no idea
Here a shot ot the print.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I am building for a 93 and my tps sig does not hook into the same location that yours does. Mine hooks up to 4k

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

If I have sequential firmware installed and I don't have sequential wired. It should effectively run like batch correct? I want to get my car running before I start adding cops and rewiring the injector harness. I just want to make sure I can run it in "as is" condition while using the latest firmware

WestfieldMX5

Please start a seperate thread. That is spark, not a fuel map.

Edit: looks like you already did, good.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

Sorry, I put two thoughts in one sentence. I was supposed to ask if i needed a 10 kpa row for spark. The next question was about converting the LINK fuel values to MS fuel values.

xitsam

What aera is for the VTPS?

What Resistors, Diodes have i to check?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Ran into a problem attempting to make my sequential injection work. On this screen



For injector drivers, the only option in the box is "standard drivers". There are no other selections. I do not have the ability to select "additional drivers"; it's simply not there. I am running 3.0.3 firmware.

screenshot


<edit> I loaded the 99/00 startup map from the DIY website. They definately have the "addtional drivers" option that I do not have. They are running firmware 3.0.3h. I have 3.0.3i. I just downloaded it off the MS2 site a short while ago.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I'm running 3.0.3i and I have the ability to select additional drivers

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Me too! Me too!

James from the MSExtra forum helped me out. Here is the solution.

You can activate or deactivate "Megasquirt Module" in the TunerStudio project properties page.

So we didn't get it done in time today, but tomorrow, the car lives again.

jerrah

Ok to confirm:

1991 1.6 Miata

AC Control
Remove R14
1Q -> Input 1 IN
1J & 4S -> Input 1 OUT

FAN Control
PA0 -> Relay 1 IN
1L -> Relay 1 OUT

Is this correct?

EDIT: I just read two pages earlier that FAN control is not required? What happens if I DO wire in the fan?

I currently have my Fuel Pump going to my DB15 which I was going to wire over to the plug referenced under the steering column. The MSPNP 90-93 doesn't mention running this wire over in the manual - does this mean it's using the 'vtec-like circuit' on pin 1C?

What is the vtec-like circuit? Do I just wire FUEL PUMP to 1C or is there a relay?

1C according a stock loom appears to be connected to ST SIGN?

Matt Cramer

That'll work great.

You add the ability to turn the fan on at lower than stock temperatures.

Yes, the MSPNP takes over a signal intending to tell the factory ECU that the engine is cranking and uses it to control the fuel pump.

You'd connect this circuit to 1C and remove the ST SIGN fuse.



Only where it says to use ALED or WLED, you'll use the fuel pump connection.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

My previous excel file was wrong, here is the current one.

Zaphod

I just got my car 99-00 up and running with the 3.0.3 alpha in sequential mode.

I can't get the fans to work... what am I doing wrong? Fans are wired from WLED to Relay 1 IN (also tried 2) and from Relay 1 (2) OUT to 1R. They don't come on - I changed conditions at the output settings so they should be always on. Nothing.

Do I have to set something more up to get them working?

Edit: I took out my DVM and measured a bit:
I do get ground at WLED all the time. No matter if the output port is on or of... I can measure 12.36 V between power source 12V and WLED.

I do also get ground at ALED but only 8.84 V.

WTF?

Thanks, Greets