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Old 10-08-2016, 07:01 PM   #1
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Default Diypnp no rpm,no start and frying coils







1995 Miata M edition home brew sr20 t25 turbo setup built a diypnp 76 pin ecu meticulously wentover the board and loaded firmware off diys website put all the jumpers and whatnot in snd I cannot get an rpm for the life of me the car ran fine just lean with the stock ecu I don't know what I did wrong but loaded a start up map off their site and double checked the ignition setting burnt the first coils out and just burnt the second ones like smoke coming off of them I'm pulling my hair out I thought this would be fun. Any info would be greatly appreciated

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Old 10-09-2016, 04:55 AM   #2
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Did you load the firmware onto the board when it was installed in the car? If so, that's a good way to fry the coils. Also, if you're using the air temperature sensor as opposed to the MAF, you will have to do a little wiring to get the fuel pump working.
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Old 10-09-2016, 09:54 AM   #3
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you put a resistor where a diode should go. the idle valve flyback protection...

you need to remove r39.

you need U5 installed.

You have your INJ outputs going to both your injectors AND coils.



What directions are you following, because youre not being as meticulously as you think.
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:11 AM   #4
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Loaded the wrong pic I have corrected the r39 u5 and pull up diode but did not notice the injector wiring thank you and no I didn't load firmware on the car.
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Old 10-09-2016, 02:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas4g63 View Post
1995 Miata M edition home, brew sr20 t25 turbo setup. I built a diypnp, 76 pin ecu, meticulously went over the board and loaded firmware off diys website. I put all the jumpers and what not in according to the instructions, and I cannot get an rpm for the life of me. The car ran fine, just lean, with the stock ecu. I don't know what I did wrong, but loaded a start up map off their site and double checked the ignition settings, then burnt the first coils out, and just burnt the second ones... like smoke coming off of them. I'm pulling my hair out, I thought this would be fun. I was wrong, should have had someone else built it. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
good riddance.
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Old 10-09-2016, 04:23 PM   #6
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Brain should I reload firmware the corrections have just been made is there anything else I should be looking at I'm not electronics savvy

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Old 10-12-2016, 11:51 AM   #7
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Test the voltage on the spark outputs with the key on and engine off. It should be zero. Let me know what you measure.
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:15 AM   #8
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the voltage is zero i just put the new coils in and tried to fire it up but sure enough it didnt also i still have no rpm im sure theres somthing im missing
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:19 AM   #9
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the voltage is zero i just put the new coils in and tried to fire it up but sure enough it didnt also i still have no rpm im sure theres somthing im missing
I would try going to the diagnostics box and jumping Fuel pump FP and ground GND.
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:28 AM   #10
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you can hear the f/p kick on when i turn the key forward what would that have to do with rpm?
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:48 AM   #11
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you can hear the f/p kick on when i turn the key forward what would that have to do with rpm?
thats right, sorry, I just forgot the problem you were having. it's gotta be something on the board or the wiring harness.
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Old 10-14-2016, 10:49 AM   #12
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Please post a composite log of an attempted start. This will tell us more about the no-RPM issue.
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Old 10-14-2016, 10:50 AM   #13
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Also, remove R20 and R39, if you have not already done so.
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:45 AM   #14
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Would you like the composit log before or after I remove r20?
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:36 PM   #15
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After. No point in recording the composite log with a known assembly error.
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Old 10-18-2016, 01:29 AM   #16
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So I replaced the coils with brand new ones and now I have a code 1 and bouncy sometimes tach car runs for 5 seconds and turns off faulty coils or cas?
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