DIYs Plug and Play MEGAsquirt
#141
Tour de Franzia
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
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No real story on that yet-- Bottom line is I'd like to just resell the KnockSenseMS unit and be done with it, but the designer doesn't make enough off of it to do that profitably, nor can he make them in large quantity... so that said we'll look into designing a solution that we can offer but we're not there yet so for now I'd go with the KnockSenseMS. Boris is a good guy and I'd really like to support him, everyone I know of has had good luck with his product when properly dialed in...
Oh yeah-- your MSPNP is on the middle row, third from the left--
Oh yeah-- your MSPNP is on the middle row, third from the left--
Is the IAT sensor the only part of the install that will require modification? I'm thinking about installing this in my hotel parking lot, but don't have a drill handy.
I was thinking about installing this weekend, but I don't really want to tune off a narrow band.
#143
Tour de Franzia
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
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yeah, my engine is totally stock. Since I'm living out of a hotel...how much can I get a timing light for? I think that's the only thing I'll need other than my "track day tool bag." How many people have installed stand alone engine management in a hotel parking lot?
#147
Supporting Vendor
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Location: Duluth, GA 30097
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I'd agree MegaLogViewer is really powerful and all you need, but this is the second time I've had someone ask about DLL, and it shouldn't be that hard...
__________________
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
#148
Supporting Vendor
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Duluth, GA 30097
Posts: 803
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Ben-- you picked that up like an hour ago-- it's not in the car YET?
__________________
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
#153
Supporting Vendor
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Duluth, GA 30097
Posts: 803
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Yep-- as Ben said-- MS1 Extra
__________________
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
#154
If you order one an LC1 along with your MSPNP, you shouldn't need a resistor - it's only the older ones in the green and white boxes that ever needed this, and even then this was to protect against bad grounding. The new ones in the "Thunderstorm" blue/black box should not need the resistor.
#155
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
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In case you didn't catch it earlier, I picked my MSPNP up from Jerry @ DIY earlier today. Along with the MS unit itself, I also received the software disk (which is self loading and well done), a tuning cable that looks like s-video on one end and a db serial cable on the other, an intake temp sensor and bung kit, a 5.5' length of vac hose (looks like it only needs 4-4.5'), and a vac T. Jerry also gave me a MAP signal filter to help clean up the signal because I elected to get the 4 bar sensor in place of the standard 2.5 bar sensor.
Installation:
pull STSIGN fuse--30 seconds
expose & remove the oem ecu--4 minutes
run vac hose through firewall--15 minutes (a 2nd person helping is nice)
install ecu plugs, vac hose, and serial tuning cable into MS--1 minute
reinstall ecu cover plate, carpet, and sill panel--4 minutes
total time: appx 25 minutes
difficulty: easy, except running the MAP signal line through the firewall. Though not technically difficult, it's frustrating. Having a second person would make it less painful (one person pushing from the engine side, the other person under the dash looking for the hose and pulling it through). I used an opened wire coathanger and very tightly taped the hose to the hanger and pushed it into the hole in the firewall. Then I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to prod the hose & hanger through. The hose comes through high up under the dash on the pass side towards the side of the car.
Jerry was super cool and offered phone and web based tech support.
Pointers:
*I had to lower the transmission speed of the serial connection to 9600 from its default 11500 to establish communication between the laptop and MS
*The supplied documentation is in word format. So you'll need word, openoffice, or equivalent.
Installation:
pull STSIGN fuse--30 seconds
expose & remove the oem ecu--4 minutes
run vac hose through firewall--15 minutes (a 2nd person helping is nice)
install ecu plugs, vac hose, and serial tuning cable into MS--1 minute
reinstall ecu cover plate, carpet, and sill panel--4 minutes
total time: appx 25 minutes
difficulty: easy, except running the MAP signal line through the firewall. Though not technically difficult, it's frustrating. Having a second person would make it less painful (one person pushing from the engine side, the other person under the dash looking for the hose and pulling it through). I used an opened wire coathanger and very tightly taped the hose to the hanger and pushed it into the hole in the firewall. Then I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to prod the hose & hanger through. The hose comes through high up under the dash on the pass side towards the side of the car.
Jerry was super cool and offered phone and web based tech support.
Pointers:
*I had to lower the transmission speed of the serial connection to 9600 from its default 11500 to establish communication between the laptop and MS
*The supplied documentation is in word format. So you'll need word, openoffice, or equivalent.
#157
In case you didn't catch it earlier, I picked my MSPNP up from Jerry @ DIY earlier today. Along with the MS unit itself, I also received the software disk (which is self loading and well done), a tuning cable that looks like s-video on one end and a db serial cable on the other, an intake temp sensor and bung kit, a 5.5' length of vac hose (looks like it only needs 4-4.5'), and a vac T. Jerry also gave me a MAP signal filter to help clean up the signal because I elected to get the 4 bar sensor in place of the standard 2.5 bar sensor.
Installation:
pull STSIGN fuse--30 seconds
expose & remove the oem ecu--4 minutes
run vac hose through firewall--15 minutes (a 2nd person helping is nice)
install ecu plugs, vac hose, and serial tuning cable into MS--1 minute
reinstall ecu cover plate, carpet, and sill panel--4 minutes
total time: appx 25 minutes
difficulty: easy, except running the MAP signal line through the firewall. Though not technically difficult, it's frustrating. Having a second person would make it less painful (one person pushing from the engine side, the other person under the dash looking for the hose and pulling it through). I used an opened wire coathanger and very tightly taped the hose to the hanger and pushed it into the hole in the firewall. Then I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to prod the hose & hanger through. The hose comes through high up under the dash on the pass side towards the side of the car.
Jerry was super cool and offered phone and web based tech support.
Pointers:
*I had to lower the transmission speed of the serial connection to 9600 from its default 11500 to establish communication between the laptop and MS
*The supplied documentation is in word format. So you'll need word, openoffice, or equivalent.
Installation:
pull STSIGN fuse--30 seconds
expose & remove the oem ecu--4 minutes
run vac hose through firewall--15 minutes (a 2nd person helping is nice)
install ecu plugs, vac hose, and serial tuning cable into MS--1 minute
reinstall ecu cover plate, carpet, and sill panel--4 minutes
total time: appx 25 minutes
difficulty: easy, except running the MAP signal line through the firewall. Though not technically difficult, it's frustrating. Having a second person would make it less painful (one person pushing from the engine side, the other person under the dash looking for the hose and pulling it through). I used an opened wire coathanger and very tightly taped the hose to the hanger and pushed it into the hole in the firewall. Then I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to prod the hose & hanger through. The hose comes through high up under the dash on the pass side towards the side of the car.
Jerry was super cool and offered phone and web based tech support.
Pointers:
*I had to lower the transmission speed of the serial connection to 9600 from its default 11500 to establish communication between the laptop and MS
*The supplied documentation is in word format. So you'll need word, openoffice, or equivalent.
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