Dyno Tuning, Take a Look FM we want your timingz
#144
Hi guys I think its great to see everyones maps,even if people don't use them directly, it gives ideas to people that have been running a very different map and shows there is more hp to be had.
I do think any new map change needs careful examination in your own car and very few do actually go to the dyno.
So here are a few ideas to hear the ping better.
If you have access to a stethascope( these have a steel diaphram which increases the sound), clamp the probe to the head with a bolt securely and extend the air tube from it to the ear piece by 6-8 foot.So you can drive your car with the stethascope in your ears. You will hear even the slightest ping, but if there is too much background noise, you can.
This is like using the resistor in knocksense;
Get 8 foot of vacuum hose with 4mm id hole,stick a piece of steel rod or bolt into one end, zip tie on, leave enough steel rod sticking out to clamp under a bolt on the head and clamp securely .Buy a set of cheap ear muffs , drill a hole in one ear to tightly fit hose through, push hose through so it actually enters the ear when fitted and go for a drive.
Very important;
make sure the hose does not get squashed anywhere and it is taped down so it does not vibrate or knock against anything.
Hope this may help someone and sorry I don't know how to spell stethascope.
Thanks Col
I do think any new map change needs careful examination in your own car and very few do actually go to the dyno.
So here are a few ideas to hear the ping better.
If you have access to a stethascope( these have a steel diaphram which increases the sound), clamp the probe to the head with a bolt securely and extend the air tube from it to the ear piece by 6-8 foot.So you can drive your car with the stethascope in your ears. You will hear even the slightest ping, but if there is too much background noise, you can.
This is like using the resistor in knocksense;
Get 8 foot of vacuum hose with 4mm id hole,stick a piece of steel rod or bolt into one end, zip tie on, leave enough steel rod sticking out to clamp under a bolt on the head and clamp securely .Buy a set of cheap ear muffs , drill a hole in one ear to tightly fit hose through, push hose through so it actually enters the ear when fitted and go for a drive.
Very important;
make sure the hose does not get squashed anywhere and it is taped down so it does not vibrate or knock against anything.
Hope this may help someone and sorry I don't know how to spell stethascope.
Thanks Col
#145
Weird, my knocksense has always been good to me. I don't know why it goes off when it does, but it's typically under high boost, high ambiant temps, and high revs. I just tuned it by free reving, and it never goes off when it doesn't seem like it should (except sometimes on grindy shifts).
Anyway, it's been a joy to tune with MS plucking timing out of my car. I drive around for five minutes, then pull over, check logs, tweak 0.5-1.5* of timing out of cells where the noise was and cells leading up to that cell.
Basically, I just used the 'hybrid' map, and found out that everything over 6k needed various amounts pulled. I have a feeling I could add more in the midrange, but at least the car doesn't fall flat anymore up top.
If I thought I could trust my AFR's, I'd say I could tune it on the street like this, with some patience. I'll post maps later, after I do more tuning.
P.S. This also inspired me to overclock my quadcore. Now I compress movies at 28 fps verses 20 from before. Awesome.
Anyway, it's been a joy to tune with MS plucking timing out of my car. I drive around for five minutes, then pull over, check logs, tweak 0.5-1.5* of timing out of cells where the noise was and cells leading up to that cell.
Basically, I just used the 'hybrid' map, and found out that everything over 6k needed various amounts pulled. I have a feeling I could add more in the midrange, but at least the car doesn't fall flat anymore up top.
If I thought I could trust my AFR's, I'd say I could tune it on the street like this, with some patience. I'll post maps later, after I do more tuning.
P.S. This also inspired me to overclock my quadcore. Now I compress movies at 28 fps verses 20 from before. Awesome.
#146
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
Sam, get a variable TPS. It is so worth it for so many things (boost control, LC/FS, etc)
Speaking of which, anyone have any ideas for me on this one? The car is an otherwise-stock 1.6, MSPNP running Jerry's 1.6 basemap with VariTPS running an automatic TB. Looks like the TPS is freaking the **** out to me.
Speaking of which, anyone have any ideas for me on this one? The car is an otherwise-stock 1.6, MSPNP running Jerry's 1.6 basemap with VariTPS running an automatic TB. Looks like the TPS is freaking the **** out to me.
Also installed an MSPNP on a JRSC'ed '90 today. Kicked the AFPR and the JR BTC to the curb, and solved idle droop issues to boot. The owner is thrilled.
#147
Back from the dead.....
This thread needs tags, or stickied or something. Lots of good timing info in it, but hard to find. Only reason I found it is cause I remember there was a long timing thread with a title about FM in it.
Here's the table I'm running right now on my 99' I can't run as much timing as everyone else as the headwork I did makes it easier to knock. Also, I'm not boosted so the boosted sells are not tuned or tested. This map was born by getting info from a hydra guy, making a table on it, then pulling timing where I had knock.
This map is a basically the same thing, but smoothed out more. I'm about to load this one and try it.
One question though. Why are some people not adding timing in after peak torque? Any reason not to?
This thread needs tags, or stickied or something. Lots of good timing info in it, but hard to find. Only reason I found it is cause I remember there was a long timing thread with a title about FM in it.
Here's the table I'm running right now on my 99' I can't run as much timing as everyone else as the headwork I did makes it easier to knock. Also, I'm not boosted so the boosted sells are not tuned or tested. This map was born by getting info from a hydra guy, making a table on it, then pulling timing where I had knock.
This map is a basically the same thing, but smoothed out more. I'm about to load this one and try it.
One question though. Why are some people not adding timing in after peak torque? Any reason not to?
#148
I'll have to look, but I think I have timing added in back later. More or less, I ran till I saw knock, and pulled timing where I did.
I know I've seen cars before with the least timing at the torque peak, or at least reduced, though if this is to save the driveline or prevent engine damage, I'm unsure.
Really, a dyno is the way to do thing.
I know I've seen cars before with the least timing at the torque peak, or at least reduced, though if this is to save the driveline or prevent engine damage, I'm unsure.
Really, a dyno is the way to do thing.
#151
Hi guy's wow there is alot of stuff in this thread and alot of maps....
Im running ms2 with the toytoy COP conversion and wondering to find the best fuel#spark table to start with I have a 1.6 liter Turbo gt2560R, stock b6t injectors and bottom end with the forged rod and the head is like miata 1.6 head excep i have a 1angle valve job, a bit of porting and b6t exhaust cams. planning to run around 12-15psi next summer
Found alot of stuff in this thread but ima bit confused (poor in english) and not sure if 1.8 maps will fit to my 1.6.
Thanks to help
Im running ms2 with the toytoy COP conversion and wondering to find the best fuel#spark table to start with I have a 1.6 liter Turbo gt2560R, stock b6t injectors and bottom end with the forged rod and the head is like miata 1.6 head excep i have a 1angle valve job, a bit of porting and b6t exhaust cams. planning to run around 12-15psi next summer
Found alot of stuff in this thread but ima bit confused (poor in english) and not sure if 1.8 maps will fit to my 1.6.
Thanks to help
#152
This is my sparkmap, and it will be the 2nd and final time I post it. This is the result of careful tuning on a load based dyno by competent personnel. It's specific to my car, my mods, and my local fuel. It's also aggressive as ****, and is the key to why my car makes so much power. I whole heartedly do not like sharing maps because I'm afraid of what a will do with it. Use extreme caution!!! Don't blow your **** up. This map is shown for informative and comparative purposes only. I'm also running a tad bit rich under boost.
What octane fuel was used when this map was generated?
#153
Here is my base timing map for a 1990 w/1.8 drivetrain conversion running a VNT25 at ~15-16psi. All controlled by an ancient TEC II running standalone
I know it's not a MS but it is a conservative starting point, and so far I haven't picked up anything with my detonation earphones at various full pulls up some good steep hills.
I know it's not a MS but it is a conservative starting point, and so far I haven't picked up anything with my detonation earphones at various full pulls up some good steep hills.
#158
Bumping because i'm planning for the future with my car, and it was linked over on another thread i was looking at.
Are most of these MS maps i'm seeing showing absolute pressure? Ergo 100kpa = one atmosphere, then above that is boosty goodness?
Trying to reference against what i've got. (Not set up with cans, but was on a steady state Dyno Dynamics "heartbreaker," we were just trying to get the car on the road.)
Are most of these MS maps i'm seeing showing absolute pressure? Ergo 100kpa = one atmosphere, then above that is boosty goodness?
Trying to reference against what i've got. (Not set up with cans, but was on a steady state Dyno Dynamics "heartbreaker," we were just trying to get the car on the road.)