ronniebiggs

Ok so back to basics. Ive had a break from it and now I have come back witn a fresh head to put away once and foreall.
looking at the DIY Autotune EBC Valve one side has 1 hole and the other has 2.

I have 1 pipe going to the side with 1 hole obviously and I have the other part going to the lower hole or hole number 3. This is the hole furthest away from all the black plastic.

Now when I blow through the valve with the ignition turned off the air flows through the pipes which I have piped up. It doesnt matter which side I blow in as the air passes through the valve. At no point does any air come out of the spare hole which is not in use (Hole numbered number 2).

Then when I turn on the ignition an blow through the hole which has only 1 hole (Numberd on thye valve as 1) air comes out of the unused hole (Number 2) but not out of the piped up hole which the air was coming out of when the ignition was off. If I then try to blow through the piped up side where there are 2 holes (number 3). No air can be blown through.

I know this will not be easy to understand but is this the function of a correctly working EBC? I have checked all the diagrams and I believe its wired correctly. Maybe Im supposed to use hole number 2 or the hole which is closest to the black plastic on the side with 2 holes? as this does flow with the ignition on and not with it off?

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

OK, you're making progress. I can confirm that your plumbing is correct.

Now, go into your MS and check your EBC settings. Sitting static, you are operating at 100kPa, 0RPM and 0% TPS. If your EBC table calls for 100%DC at these conditions, then your setup is operating correctly. 100%DC on the EBC valve will close the signal to the wastegate. You can also adjust your table so that it produces 0%DC under static conditions. When you do that, the EBC valve should be open.

Confirm the above and let's work from there.

ronniebiggs

Im not sure I understand. I turned the ignition on the car then opened my boost control target table. At 0% throttle and middle of the 1000rpm box the figure reads 100. I assume this is what you are on about?

the valve is closed at this value with ignition on as I can only blow through one way and it comes out the hole which isnt in use.

If I change the value in the box to 0 it makes no difference. Same if I cahnge the figure to 200 in this box.

Am I looking in the correct table and box?

The EBC is warming up the longer I leave it on. Its not to warm just luke warm.

ronniebiggs

I changed back to open loop and then went into the boost duty cycle table and the figure at 100rpm and 0% throttle is 0 in the table but the valve is still closed. Changing the figure in this tabel to 100 also makes no difference and the valve remains closed.

Can someone tell me what settings to change so the valve opens then I may be able to work it out. I think this is the route of my problems as it always over boosts hence the valve is never opening and thats why I cant adjust the figures to make a difference.

Could the signal wire going to the ECU be incorrectly wired to the board or could the problem lie with that?
There are 4 wires on thsi block connector. If I only have the EBC wire connected and the other 3 where not connected is that ok as thats how mine is wired now?

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I do think you've found your issue. The settings that you are adjusting should be opening and closing your valve.

Sounds like the "signal wire going to the ECU" is permanently grounded for some reason. Grab a multimeter and see if you can find the short. I would start by unplugging completely from the ECU. That will indicate whether the short to ground is internal or external to the ECU.

ronniebiggs

I will do that first thing tomorrow and report back. Thanks for the help.

Mr.Pibb

Did you ever figure it out?
I'm having the exact same problem.

hornet: Do you mean disconnect the ground to the transistor to see if anything else is
grounding it?

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Don't think we'd even gotten that far. I just suggested disconnecting the main ECU plug that contained the EBC control wire. Then, ohm the EBC control wire both on the harness side and the ECU side and see which side is shorted to ground. If the harness side, then there is a problem with the car wiring. If the ECU side, then there is a problem within the ECU. Never heard whether Ronnie got his issue solved or not. That means he probably got it fixed.

ronniebiggs

Sorry everyone I put my car off the road every winter and I have just got it back out again and resurrected this thread to again try and get the ebc working. I'm still where we left it Rick I need to check the signal wire and report back. I will do it tomorrow morning and post back as the car is back in use again.

ronniebiggs

Hi rick. I still don't have a clue. I haven't got a multimeter to be able to check as you said. If needs be I can go out tomorrow and buy one but you would have to say in the simplest of words how to do what you suggested I I never know what to set the multimeter to when I use it.

I tried a few things today. I checked the signal wire to th ecu and I couldn't see ny breaks in the wire. Is there a specific way round to wire the ebc up. I don't believe the wires have a specific way round.

I turned on the ignition and then tried blowing through and couldn't as the valve was closed. Turn the ignition off and blow through and you cn blow through as it's open. Again with ignition on if you unplug the wire which goes to the blue connector near the headlamp and you can here the valve cluck as it opens. Connect it up again and I clicks and you can't blow through.

The ecu end appears fine no bad solder. The ebc wire is soldered to the 3rd pin in from the right on the bottom row when looking at the plug at the end which plugs into the ecu with the least row of holes on the bottom.

Does the thickness of the wire used make any difference as I used quite thick wire instead f the thin stuff which s soldered to the plug?

Not sure yet about internals of the ecu but I do know from looking in the past that it would appear to be ok.


Software wise the over boost is turned on and set to 250kpa. I tuned. He boost table (in closed loop I believe) but still nothing. Not sure if there is any link but my wide band doesn't register on tuner studio either which would indicate a potential fault with the connector to ecu as the sensor and gauge work but I can't get a signal to the software.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

With a multimeter, set it to measure ohms. Low ohms = continuity. High ohms = open. Usually, there is also a setting (diode test) that will beep when there is continuity. You are checking for continuity to chassis ground. This is basic electrical troubleshooting. If you don't know how to do this, you probably better get some local help. I don't think posting on a forum will get us there. Need to get that LC-1 reading in Tunerstudio also. I have no idea what the pinout on a DIYPNP should be.

ronniebiggs

I haven't had chance to check continuity yet but 1 question. Does the ebc have polarity?

I have 1 wire going to the blue connector near the headlamp and the other to the ebc signal on the db plug on the ecu for the signal. The only 2 other wires on the same db connector which could be used. Are a ground and 12v. I've just wired the ground from the db connector to the same ground on the engine which the main ecu earth goes to and the 12v is used for the lambda I think.

ronniebiggs

Ok so I removed the wire to the ECU and the valve remains open which would indicate that the fault is with the wire used on the connector or internal in the ecu.

Are we sure im using the correct wire on the connector on the ecu? I got a diagram from Braineack which showned the connector with the most pins on the top and reading left to right the 4 wires are:

12V then Ground then EBC then Wideband O2.

We can ingnore the WBO2 as that is working. The ground I have just wired to the engine block where the ecu ground goes and the 12V I think I have it plummed to my Innovate LC1. The EBC obviously goes to the ecu. Is the EBC wire im using the correct one on the DB...... connector?

Again does the EBC have any polarity or can it be wired any way round?

I tried going into the settings and changing lots of figures in the closed and open loop tabels just to try and get the valve to open and it wont. It just remains closed all the time *** if the ecu isnt getting a signal.

Likewise if I enable or disasble the valve in tunerstudio the valve remains closed.

Mr.Pibb

The solenoid can be wired in either way.
Invert it in settings, so it doesn't get hot being closed all the time.

I gave up on it and run a mbc. :P

ronniebiggs

I'm sure I tried to invert it with no difference but I will have a go again to confirm.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

considering why you think you need to invert the settings shows why you gave up...

ronniebiggs

Hi braineack have you any suggestions as I'm just trying anything at present as nothing is working. Is it possible that the ground on the connector is actually the ebc signal wire?

Can I confirm I don't need to use the 12v and ground wire from the db connector? I'm using the wbo2 wire which is now working and the only other I need is the ebc signal.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the solenoid needs constant switched 12v, then the ground is supplied by the MS at a very rapid varying rate to control the flows.

ronniebiggs

The switched live is supplied by the blue connector near the headlamp and the other wire is wired to the ebc wire on the db connector not the ground wire of the db connector. Is this the problem?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

correct.

ebc wire, not ground wire. if it was attached to a constant ground, the solenoid would be always 100% open, and you'd only be at wastegate levels of boost. is that what you are seeing?