samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I'm sorry this is long, but it's really only a couple easy things I hope.

Here's my first log and I've got some questions.
First, in MegalogViewer, how do I get some numbers along the side of the graph like a dyno plot so I can actually tell what's going on. I know you can PLAY the log at the bottom but it's not the same.

The log below starts at 2k in 2nd all the way through 4th shifting around 6500rpm.

Also, since the little dial on the bottom for MAP shows I'm running 155? something at WOT... is that in kpa? If so, 155kpa converts to 22psi. Is that equal to 22psi-14.7psi? If so, I'm only pushing 7psi of boost which means my Stewart Warner boost gauge is off by about 1psi. That also means my **** is REALLY FAST at 7psi... at least as fast as I was at 10psi on bandaids.

NOW, my problem. I was troubleshooting my EBC today (still no luck, damn thing still gives me all or nothing) when this odd thing happened.
The car was running as normal with idle AF around 16 like it is in the target able. I pulled the MS out of the car and opened the case to check the EBC fet one last time. It looked good. I put the case together and back in the car and started it... but idle was crap w/AF aroun 10.5 and pissing fuel out the exhaust. Duty cycle was around 3% and MAP around ~10.

My first thought was to re-calibrate the LC-1... which I did several times w/no joy... so I gave up and went for a run. I came back, recalibrated the LC-1 again and fired it up. Initially, it idled OK at around 12.5 and got progressively better as the car warmed up. I took it for a drive and it got better as it warmed up. I LOGGED THE INCLUDED FILE during this drive and the AF targets match fine... but NOW my idle AF is about 14... which is 2 lower than ever before and I changed nothing.

Also, my LC-1 via Logworks is showing a consistant .75 to 1.5 richer than is being shown in Megatune. What's the deal?

richard_ha

Boost = Max Kpa - Atmospheric Kpa
= 161 - 98 (guess, check the MAP when the engine not running)
= 63 Kpa
= 9 PSI

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you need to tell MLV what wb02 you have.

you can also turn psi on, so you don't have to convert to kPa to psi....ambeint is 100kPa so 107 would be 1psi



did you check the resistor on the MS board coming off JS2? if it's brwn black yellow, it's not the right one.

It needs to be 100ohms brwn black brwn.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

So my math was correct... awesome!

I did tell MLV that I have an LC1.
Where do I turn PSI on...? I looked and looked.
I bought the 100ohm 1/4 watt and soldered it in place... see pic... looks brn-blk-yel-gold

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

You want the 10k ohm resistor across the mosfet, and a 100 ohm resistor from the gate to JS2.
That looks like brown-black-yellow which would be 100k ohm which is not what you want.
Brown-black-orange is 10k ohms.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Hmmm.... that looks a little different than what I have.
Here's a pic of my MS.

I don't have anything on the JS2 wire.

Scott, based on this diagram, the original resistor across the GND/JS2 was correct.... and the new resistor you told me to buy needs to go on the JS2.

And now I'm looking at the diode that goes across the solenoid... exactly where do I mount that thing. My 12vlt source is on the fender.

IcantDo55

iTrader: (11)

Hmm my unit was bought from Scott about the same time as yours and my EBC transistor thingie is mounted to the main heat sink, not on the side like yours? Wonder if mine going to work......soon we will see......

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Run the diode from the drain (middle pin) to S12 like in this picture, same idea as the idle mod shown here.
Did he install diodes on the harness like he usually does?


You should have a 100 ohm resistor going from the wire you have running into the proto board to JS2 on the back side like this:

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

^Thanks for helping with this... but I speak absolutely zero geek, so I need this explained a little simpler.

First, I'll check the backside of board for the board for the resistor at JS2.

Second, the 100k resistor for the drain to S12 is definitely not there. I love the paint you did to make it simple... but I'm retarded when it comes to circuit boards. I'd love to have an actual picture of this so I'm 100% clear. Which side of the diode is the banded side, and exactly how do I junction it into the middle of the wire??? Do I just solder it on like a "T" down to S12?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

by S12 he means here:



or to make your life easier you can simply do this:



it is not an absolute necessity.


as far as the EBC.


if you follow this diagram I drew up



there is a 10K ohm resistor across the two gates. It looks like you put a 100K ohm resistor back across it. That resistor wasn't the one i wanted you to change. I hope you still have the one you removed and you need to replace it back with a 10K ohm resistor (brown black orange)

the second resistor that was the issue is the one coming off JS2 on the bottom of the board.



you can see here this one is incorrect, it's a 100K ohm resistor (brown black yellow), this is the one to change. It needs to be a 100ohm resistor (brown black brown).


does that clear things up?

y8s

iTrader: (8)

I gotta do it because I just gotta:

101.3kpa = 0 psi gauge. I know it's only 1.3% but it's the engineer in me.

I still prefer to tune in kpa but I like my gauges in psi.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

^AW ****! Sorry Scott, miscommunication. I still have the other resistor so I can solder it back in place across the red wires. I'll have a look at the back and solder the new resistor onto the JS2... I'll let everyone know how it goes tonight!

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

New soldering complete.
I reinstalled the 10k ohm brn-blk-orng resistor across the outer pins on the fet.
I soldered the correct 100 ohm brn-blk-brn resistor on the bottom of the board at JS2 and the corresponding pin for the wire on the top-side.

Nothing changed... still all or nothing for EBC. I had limited time to troubleshoot in the car, but I did try removing the USB-Serial adapter to see if it was grounding like it was back when the fet didn't have the little piece of insulating plastic underneath it.

The only thing left to try I think is to turn down all the values in the boost target table to ZERO and see if it does the same thing. If the EBC doesn't work at all, I'll assume software... but if it does the same all-or-nothing, then I still have to stick with a hardware fault somewhere.

As per Scott saying it was optional, I do not have the 1N4002 diode installed on the drain.

I'll be back tomorrow with more testing.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Bring up the Boost DC gauge in megatune. Right click on a gauge and change it.
With the MS in the car, does the DC value change when you rev it? If nothing happens that tells you if it is a software issue.
I've dealt with this myself recently. Reflashing my firmware so i know it isn't corrupted and creating a 100% new msq solved this issue.
The way to create an all new msq is to just open megatune and enter all the values by hand saving along the way. Then import your ve, spark, target afr and ebc duty tables. That was the only thing that solved my issue.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

also, take a DMM, and test to see if you have a signal from the signal white wire coming out of the EBC FET, to your harness where you connect up to your solenoid.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Has be been doing the LED w/ resistor bench test to see if it's outputting anything?
He can do the same test to see if he's getting 5v out of the drain as well. Same thing.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

or he can just mail it back to me and ill fix it all really fast.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

^I will try the basic stuff suggested tomorrow... but I might also be heading up to PaxRiver on Thursday night and coming home Sat... may be making a trip to Brain's house Sat morning for some pancakes and EBC fix on my way back to VaBch. Since the Miata doesn't do long distances yet... MS6 test drive for Scott!!! YEAH!

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I pulled up the "BOOST Control DC" gauge in Megatune and it was at 0% while the engine was on. It did not change as I revved. I just did this in the driveway.

My "Boost Control Parameters" menu looks exactly like this:


I verified that in "Codebase and Outputs Funtion" that JS2 is set to Boost Control.

I know that from previous EBC threads the MS uses the table in "Boost kpa targets table" to control the solenoid, unless you set your "Closed loop kpa" to ZERO in the "Boost Control Parameters" window, and then it uses the "Boost Duty Targets" window. Mine is set to ZERO, so I assume making changes in the "Boost Duty Targets" window will affect the solenoid. Even with every digit in the entire table set to ZERO, the solenoid never opens.

I also see in the "Tuning" dropdown menu there is "boost1" "boost2" and "boostdutytargets" and the large black space in those windows where I would expect to find a graph is simply blank.

So I think we're back to a hardware fault of some kind. No chance to test voltages or ****. I fly really late tonight, so maybe tomorrow.