a/f logs with stock ecu controlling fuel? or your map and a/f logs?
#1
a/f logs with stock ecu controlling fuel? or your map and a/f logs?
hmm.. does anyone happen to have any a/f logs form the stock ECU controlling fuel?
I just hooked up my LC1 and i'm a litle concerned that it's not working quite right as when i'm at part throttle with my map, it's pegged at 19.xx for a lot of the time. of course, this is while idling and just blipping/holding the throttle. it looks a little better with the stock ecu controlling fuel... but still not spectacular...
Going to try and drive around a bit and capture some logs to see if i'm nuts or not...
anyone?
I just hooked up my LC1 and i'm a litle concerned that it's not working quite right as when i'm at part throttle with my map, it's pegged at 19.xx for a lot of the time. of course, this is while idling and just blipping/holding the throttle. it looks a little better with the stock ecu controlling fuel... but still not spectacular...
Going to try and drive around a bit and capture some logs to see if i'm nuts or not...
anyone?
#6
i got sidetracked yesterday so i dind't really have a chance to play around with it. hopefully today i can go capture a couple of logs and see if i feel better or worse about my installation. i definately calibrated it in free air before i screwed it in, though i might re-calibrate again today.
for install, i tapped into the power wire that is powering the MS, for system and analog ground i tapped the MS ground wire (which, via kingofl337's plug'n'play setup are the stock ECU power and ground wires, effectively). i ran the heater ground out to the engine bay, and then analog 1 to the narrowband's signal wire, and analog 2 to the MS. analog 2 then got reprogrammed to send 0-5v for 10-20:1 AFR, via the LC1 programming tool, and the MS got reconfigured to accept the 0-5v as 10-20:1 afr.
finally, that black calibration wire got hooked up to the LED and the momentary switch, and then the LED and switch outputs were grounded to the same place on an in-cabin ground.
i honestly can't think of anything to do differently, except possibly changing the grounding locations.
anotehr issue i've noticed i have is that if i start the car, and the LC1 shows up reading the a/f on the MS, and then i stop the car and turn it right back on, the LC1 usually won't start right back up again. however, if i leave the car off for about a minute, it works fine and turns on with the MS (since it gets power from the same place). is this somewhat normal?
for install, i tapped into the power wire that is powering the MS, for system and analog ground i tapped the MS ground wire (which, via kingofl337's plug'n'play setup are the stock ECU power and ground wires, effectively). i ran the heater ground out to the engine bay, and then analog 1 to the narrowband's signal wire, and analog 2 to the MS. analog 2 then got reprogrammed to send 0-5v for 10-20:1 AFR, via the LC1 programming tool, and the MS got reconfigured to accept the 0-5v as 10-20:1 afr.
finally, that black calibration wire got hooked up to the LED and the momentary switch, and then the LED and switch outputs were grounded to the same place on an in-cabin ground.
i honestly can't think of anything to do differently, except possibly changing the grounding locations.
anotehr issue i've noticed i have is that if i start the car, and the LC1 shows up reading the a/f on the MS, and then i stop the car and turn it right back on, the LC1 usually won't start right back up again. however, if i leave the car off for about a minute, it works fine and turns on with the MS (since it gets power from the same place). is this somewhat normal?
#10
nah, i followed the install guide to the letter. the only thing i could think of is that after i calibrated it in free air, i had to unplug the sensor so i could screw it into the bung, then plugges it back into the controller. i don't think this should be an issue, though.
we'll see, i'll play with it tonite some and report back.
-D
we'll see, i'll play with it tonite some and report back.
-D
#12
i zip-tied it to the AFM for now. i figured when i remove the AFM i'll find a better plac for it. turns out i might have to look sooner because i think the sensor is overheating in the stock O2 sensor location.
basically, it'll turn on (indicated by actual readings of O2 on megatune, and the LED indicator light that ya hook up to the LC1 black calibration wire) if the car is cold. if i drive it around for awhile, then shut the car down, the LC1 will NOT come back on. sound like an overheating sensor?
basically, it'll turn on (indicated by actual readings of O2 on megatune, and the LED indicator light that ya hook up to the LC1 black calibration wire) if the car is cold. if i drive it around for awhile, then shut the car down, the LC1 will NOT come back on. sound like an overheating sensor?
#15
just got off the phone with Innovate and was told the stock O2 sensor location should be just fine. said the likely culprit is either a faulty unit or my power/ground.
this is kinda tough to imagine, since the MS power/gound i tapped into are basically the stock ecu's power/ground as per kingofl33t's
miatasquirt" installation.
this is kinda tough to imagine, since the MS power/gound i tapped into are basically the stock ecu's power/ground as per kingofl33t's
miatasquirt" installation.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AlwaysBroken
Engine Performance
4
09-04-2015 01:35 PM