mxnige

Hi,

I have a 1996 1.6 miata running on DIYPNP. I decided to upgrade from the CAS and fit a 36-1 trigger wheel, whilst still using the cam signal form the CAS for sequential fuel. The CAS was modded by removing all but the smallest cam signal tooth.

The car now starts and runs but only on cylinders 1+4, I adjusted the #1 tooth angle so the spark angle matches my timing light but it's still the same. I have a feeling it's something to do with this number or some sequential injection settings that need changing.

I've attached my tune and a composite log.

nilefulker.msq

complog 1.csv

And here's a screenshot of my composite log



Thanks in advance for any help.

Nile

soviet

iTrader: (10)

in ignition settings you have "single coil" - that needs to be wasted spark.
also your trigger wheel is on backwards if your angle is 246 degrees.... should be like 80-85.
finally I would change 'second trigger active on' to Rising edge instead of falling edge.

mxnige

Ah! Can't believe I missed that. It's too late here to test now but i'm sure having single coil selected is the problem.

The tooth angle I got from this guide, plus some adjustment with the timing gun.
MS2-Extra Dual Wheel Manual

Thanks for your help.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Single coil is your problem.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I'm just saying you put the timing gear on backwards - outer side needs to be facing.. out.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

If it's triggering reliably, it doesn't matter.

mxnige

Thanks for the help.

She now runs on all 4 cylinders, but badly. I keep getting sync losses, especially during cranking. I made sure the cam signal is not too close to the missing tooth signal so i'm not really sure why.

Here is a composite log of cranking.
cranking log.csv

Soviet, the timing wheel i'm using is a universal ring gear welded to the bottom pulley, I fitted the wheel in the Ford edis style, so tooth 9 lines up with the tdc mark at tdc.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

The composite log looks perfectly fine.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

post a screen capture of when you lose sync.

mxnige

Ok I can't even get the car to start, so both of these shots are from cranking.





I see I get error 1 and 2 for sync loss. What does error 1 init error mean?

Thanks

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

doesnt appear to be really capturing your cam signal anymore, as well as skipping teeth on the crank.

mxnige

This is the latest comp log, it does have a regular cam posn signal.



I just want to confirm that the cam posn signal is supposed to be read before the missing tooth? Also that the polarity of the signals is correct?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

cam needs to read anywhere but at the same time as the missing tooth, looks like you're okay juding by the above.

you have cam reading as rising and crnak as falling?

soviet

iTrader: (10)

If he's using the protege 36-1 wheel, it's concave on one side, like Miata wheels. it should be mounted the right way because otherwise it pushes against the crank pulley.

OP you need to play with your VR pots.

mxnige

Both are set to falling at the moment. I will try cam rising.

Does the DIYPNP have VR pots?

soviet

iTrader: (10)

It should.
I just installed the same trigger wheel and had to play with pots to get it working. It still works but I have a lot of trigger error now, so I guess I need to fine-tune it.

Also, disable cam signal altogether now and just get the trigger wheel working. Switch to batch fuel and get the RPM signal nice.
And yes, cam tooth comes before missing trigger wheel tooth.

mxnige

Still no start with the second trigger set to rising.

The weird thing is the car did start earlier and was idling ok.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

depends on how you built it. You can add one and change the threshold of VR2 only.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Your previously posted composite logs looked great, but these look horrible. What has changed? Do you have a bad wire connection? Is your crank sensor not solidly mounted?

Exactly what sensors are you using? Is the CKP a VR type?
I'm assuming that CMP is hall or opto, modified from a CAS?

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I think he's using the stock 96 crank sensor which is VR.
On related note, would there be anything to gain by switching to 99-05 crank sensor? It's a hall and has same mounting and connector. Wiring would be trivial - just switch one wire from ground to 12V.