whacked-out lc-1 (heater calibration error)
#1
Tour de Franzia
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whacked-out lc-1 (heater calibration error)
This **** is making me crazy. 90% of the time both outputs read 15.0 or 14.9:1, with the 4-steady blinking lights indicating the need for heater calibration. Its done this every time I've driven it for the past few weeks; last night it worked fine for the entire 3-hour road trip.
I've done the heater calibration several times and I keep getting the error usually immediately.
What do I do now?
I've done the heater calibration several times and I keep getting the error usually immediately.
What do I do now?
#2
Is it wired up 100.00000000000000000000000000000000000% the way outlined in the instructions included with the LC-1? Where is the sensor mounted and has it ever been mounted closer without a heat sink? How are all of your connections made? Where does the unit get it's switched when key on only and not when starting +12V power from?
#3
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Is it wired up 100.00000000000000000000000000000000000% the way outlined in the instructions included with the LC-1? Where is the sensor mounted and has it ever been mounted closer without a heat sink? How are all of your connections made? Where does the unit get it's switched when key on only and not when starting +12V power from?
sensor is in just at the very back of the downpipe, mounted on top (I used a copper heatsink when it was on the stock DP).
connections are soldered.
power from the big, yellow wire under the steering column (my other gauges stay on when cranking, but the DB gauge shows no #'s when cranking).
#6
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all should be on the same ground as the ECU......the TB ground.
your analog input is your MS, which gets grounded there....
Originally Posted by Innovate Motorsports's LC-1_Manual.pdf
Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should share the same grounding location of the analog input’s ground.
#8
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5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source. Optimally, these (and any other MTS device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal “noise.” When possible, soldering is always better than crimping. Please see chapter 2.3 for more information on Electrical Grounding Concerns.
#15
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Even then, I've followed the directions, and it worked fine on the previous install.
#17
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Your CPU ground should be 2C (black/green) and your sensor ground is 2A. Those two wires are connected down the road, but they should end up in the same place, along with your wbo2 grounds.
When they are grounded in different locations and your voltage differs to the LC-1 due to the separate grounding points, it doesn't like you.
#18
I grounded the LC1 at two different points and haven't had a single issue so far. About 5k miles on it.
I put the system and signal ground to the BLACK/LIGHT GREEN tab at the location that Brain posted, and the heater ground to the BLACK tab just below the brake master cylinder on the driver's side of the car. I don't remember exactly why I did this, but I'm 99% sure Klaus Whatsisname (the tech chief at Innovate) recommended this expressly, contradicting the language in the LC1 manual.
I put the system and signal ground to the BLACK/LIGHT GREEN tab at the location that Brain posted, and the heater ground to the BLACK tab just below the brake master cylinder on the driver's side of the car. I don't remember exactly why I did this, but I'm 99% sure Klaus Whatsisname (the tech chief at Innovate) recommended this expressly, contradicting the language in the LC1 manual.
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Zaphod
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10-26-2018 11:00 PM