Golferluke

Ok so I took a datalog of running about 10 seconds, I don't really know what i'm looking at though. Also my afrs are still jacked after calibrating it, maybe the lc1 isn't setup to talk to the ms? I have the cable but don't have the plug, can I still configure it?

ianferrell

Did you hook up an output from the lc1 to megasquirt? doesn't look like the value changed at all. Also, Idk if you'll be able to program the lc1 or not (without the plug, maybe google knows)... you might try using the other output from the lc1. You did pull the o2 sensor out of the exhaust before you calibrated it right?

All you have to do to get the LC1 to talk is make sure its wired up, then do the sensor calibration so that its converting the values correctly then make sure your project settings are correct. If it still doesn't show the right thing you may have to turn on EGO correction (I don't think you should have to do that with ms2, but I know that on ms3 you have to turn it on for to read the EGO at all... you can mess with the settings so that it can't actually do much if anything while you're tuning)

Golferluke

Yup it's wired onto the o2 wire that I jumped the adapter board to. and I took it out to do the calibration (and remembered to put the heat sync back on this time lol) I can try the other output cable I guess. I'll double check my msq settings too.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

did you unplug the stock o2 if that's sharing the same signal wire?

Golferluke

Yes wideband is in the original o2's spot and original o2 is out of the car.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

and you're using LC1 Default, not 0-5v 10-20?

Golferluke

Yes is that bad? I didn't know which one so I just chose default.

Golferluke

Ok programmed the lc1 today. It was set up to simulate a narrowband (wish I'd known, could have been running it with my stock ecu lol)

I havnt had a chance to reconnect the megasquirt for testing yet but I did drive around doing some data logging through the lc1. That brought up some questions. My idle seems to be about 17. Cruising (on throttle but maintaining speed) is about 15-15.5. When im hard on the throttle it's pretty solid at 13 which seems right. I've never datalogged before, does this seem right? Oh and of I let off the throttle my afrs go off the gauge.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

idle should be closer to 14. the rest sounds okay.

tune your AFR targets table, register TS, and then start autotuning.

Golferluke

Ok. That's with the stock ecu though. Havnt gotten a chance to hook up the megasquirt. I have today off but it's snowing and ***** cold :( I was just wanting to make sure that sounded like my sensor was calibrated correctly. I took it out and calibrated it last week so it should be good to go.

How user friendly is the auto tune stuff? Is it pretty worth the money?

Edit: also I've been looking for a good target afr table or a write up on how to make one but no luck so far.

ianferrell

Its pretty much worth the money, its not necessarily that much better than the 'old way' (using megalog viewer to scan a log file) But its faster and brain dead easy. I have a license if you want to try it before you buy, if you really wanted to be cheap we could get a good enough tune using mine and you can use mega log viewer later to tweak it... It gets everything pretty damn good in an hour of driving around really... but at the same time its good software and its worth supporting Phil, imo.

FatKao

Buy it. It's worth every penny and stupidly easy to use.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Buy it because Phil Tobin is a great guy and actually made a great piece of software.

Golferluke

Cool. Thanks Ian but I'll probably just buy it.

Golferluke

Ok so its been a while but a quick update and then a question. My diypnp is up and running, I registered TS and I've tuned a couple of the idle/no load cells with no problem but since I don't have alternator control I can't really go far. Which brings me to my question. For alternator control I am using (attempting to anyways) abes alternator control here.

I'm running into problems though because its all set up and still doesn't work. With the stock ecu in and the box disconnected the charging system/battery is fine so I know its the controller. I doubt I got a bad controller, just bought it from oreillys so I'm thinking its gotta be how I have it hooked up. For the setup I needed to be able to swap back and forth between my stock ecu and diypnp.

How I have it setup:
Ground: Mounted it on the shelf behind the headlight. When it first didn't work I figured I didn't have a good ground so I sanded the paint next to the box down a little and soldered the case to the shelf. Also soldered a wire to the box and the other end I attached to the intake manifold just for aditional peace of mind. After it still didn't work (don't know why I didn't do it before) I tested the box with voltmeter and it is solidly grounded.
Green Wire: Because I needed to be able to switch between ecus I spliced into the grey/red signal wire but shouldn't be fine because when the megasquirt is hooked up theres nothing connected to the other end of the wire. Right?
Blue Wire: Heres were I think I screwed up, I used an 'add a fuse' to get my switched 12v out of the fuse box. Well turns out after playing around with the voltmeter that its not actually switched. Its constantly putting out 12v with the key off. I don't see how that matters but its the only thing I could find that wasn't exactly like the write up. Do I need to change to a switched 12v? If so wheres a good place to get one under the hood?

Well now that I think about maybe the signal wire is were I screwed up, do I need to cut the signal wire and run directly to the green wire? I can just put a little quick disconnect on both wires and switch when I need to. I don't know, anybody have any ideas?

Golferluke

Also, if I can't get this figured out, would I be able to swap in a 90-93 alternator if I swap the pulley off of my 2000 alt?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Its possible if the connectors and the pulley lines up once mounted.