r808

iTrader: (7)

Which one is better for which application?

Aluminum
Steel

Which would be better suited for a JB Weld job?

TrickerZ

iTrader: (6)

I'm pretty sure they make both only to satisfy people who are welding. You can't really weld aluminum to steel intake piping. The steel probably fluctuates a bit less with heatsoak (steel doesn't transfer heat as well as aluminum), but I doubt it's enough to even notice. I would go with whatever your intake piping is in case you decide to do a real weld job at some point.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

I had no luck with the JB welded bung. It didn't hold long at all. I drilled/tapped my intercooler end tank and its working out great so far with much less heat-soaking. Same drill bit and tap used for the oil pan actually.

r808

iTrader: (7)

So you just discarded the bung and threaded the sensor in directly? Or is the bung threaded?

RTV or teflon?

And who the hell is Heather Bambrick? Why did she show up on a google image search of "iat bung" ?

Matt Cramer

Correct, we've got both since a lot of people opt to weld them into the charge pipe. The bung should match the pipe material even if you're initially planning on JB-Welding it.

curly

iTrader: (25)

I did the same as wayne curr, drilled and tapped the intercooler end tank. You tap the end tank and thread the sensor directly in (no bung). There's only a couple threads, and most intercoolers are aluminum, so don't over tighten it. My IAT sensor came with some red stuff on the threads, that's all I used.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I did the same thing when relocating my IAT sensor out from behind the radiator to decrease heatsoak. I just removed the intercooler, drilled a hole in the cold-side end tank, and tapped it. The sensor is screwed directly into the intercooler, with no bung. As curly said, you only get a thread or two worth of engagement doing it this way, but it doesn't really matter since the IAT sensor isn't very heavy, that area isn't subjected to hellish vibrations, and there's not much pressure behind it.

Nope. Just screwed it in. Any air leakage at this area is going to be minuscule at worst. If it's going to keep you up at night, put whatever makes you most comfortable on the threads. But there's no real need for it.

She's best known as a vocalist for the Royal Jelly Orchestra, but is also credited as the inventor of the free-air thermistor.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

It's About Time. No idea on the bung part of it though.

I like the idea of putting the iat sensor in the intercooler's end tank to reduce heat soak. Does it work? Do your temp readings at idle seem more accurate now? Impact on hot start?
If your experiences are positive,I think I'll copy, but I also think I'll go ahead and weld on a bung. Something about just threading the sensor in to the aluminum end tank doesn't sit right with me.

Gotpsi?

iTrader: (5)

I did the same with taping my end tank and threading it in, I thought I was just being lazy but I guess its quite popular.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

It did not completely eliminate heat soak, but it significantly reduced it. So long as the car is moving at any speed, IAT seems stable and believable. If I'm stopped at a light for several minutes, it will inch up very slightly, but far less than it used to. There also seems to be less heatsoak taking place when the car is parked for a while with a warm engine. IAT upon restart isn't at high as it used to be.

Previously, I had the sensor about 6" from the throttle body, which was a very convenient place to put it, but just about a worst-case scenario from a thermo standpoint, as it was directly behind the radiator. I didn't think that this would be a problem with an open-element sensor, but as we all know, that's not the case.

kenzo42

iTrader: (6)

How about a copper shield made for the IAT, similar to ones made for a WB sensor?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I think I located my sensor where heat soak caused by the radiator would be some what minimized. However, I am a teeny bit lean after hot restarts, so I assume there is some degree of heat soak. This is not leading to any drivability issues per say, but my goal is more primarily aimed at maximizing the correctness of the fueling calculations to minimize the need for EGO feedback at idle and light load. The more accurate the fueling, the less often my LTFTs will walk to max and pop CELs.

caideN

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the bump but would a Brass bung be ok?