Serper3

iTrader: (3)

lol u guys are sooo cruel!!!

Matt Cramer

We sell the wire in 2' lengths - if you order two small wire bundles we can get a 4' version.

Just about everything had com problems with MS2/Extra 1.0.x, but that's not nearly as bad with version 2. The DLP-TXRX (a sort of internal USB mod that we sell) was the one that had real issues with MS-II.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

yep! ordered the stuff today! hopefully will have it built and in the car soon. will be installing the ms first, then turboing since thats the general reccomendation from what i have read.
this is what i ordered:
MS2 CPU 3.0 PCA (unassembled)
JimStim-c two-white-dot version (unassembled)
StimPower
"wire bundle", 23" (this is supposed to come with DB37 adapter on one end?)
IATwPiggy $22.25 IAT Sensor (this is the only other sensor i need?)
38NPT-Bung_S $8 Steel Bung for mounting IAT sensor
TuneCable $5.50 6' DB9 tuning cable
USB-2920 $20
IAC modkit
Relay Control modkits (x2)
Pullup Resistor modkits (x2-3)
extra diodes
Is there a full parts list that is published online? what other stuff would i need?
Thanks alot again guys!!!

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like a plan.

No, the DB-37 is not going to come pre-attached to the wire bundle. You wouldn't want it to, since the wiring ends up being a little different for every car.

Yes, the IAT will be the only additional sensor you need, and judging by the price you quoted you got the open-element one, which is good.

Here is the MS2-Extra documentation: http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/ I suggest you read the whole thing, though you'll find one section in particular that covers the NB trigger inputs here: http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Miata.htm The circuits they describe are quite different from what Abe built, however you'll find a lot of that in the MS community. There are many different ways to skin a cat, and folks just do things differently. My suggestion would be to try Abe's circuit first, and see how it works for you. The only difference from the schematic I posted is that the second half of the circuit will output to JS10, rather than JS8 (I drew that for MS1)


For ignition output, follow the "Option 1: Spark Output to factory Miata ignitors" documentation here: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...azda_miata.htm but ignore all the software settings- those are for MS1.


For your IAC control, go here: http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-...ware.htm#Fidle

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Ok, a bit of pruning has been done, now hopefully we can all start acting like mature adults again...

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

found it. Also, the knocksenseMS is mounted there, too, if you have good eyes you'll see it.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

ok guys so i got my stuff from diyautotune. i have been reading up on soldering and stuff and i am gonna practice a bit before i begin to work actually on the car related stuff but.. first i need to build the jimstim.. where can i get instructions and stuff for what i need to do? as for the MS build itself.. what instructions should i be following since this is going to be a 99 ms build? i am assuming i am going to have to follow the instructions exactly and then make some modifications since this is for a 99. since most of the instructions out their are for the earlier cars, i dont want to build my ms the wrong way. thanks alot again for everyones help!
Henry

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you'll wanna follow the ones in my faq, if you are doing a piggyback with a 90-97 CAS.

for general building of the stim and board, www.megamanual.com

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

I think he's going to do a 99 OEM build, so some of the faq will be useful, some not. Someday, when I get 79 hours to myself, I should do a write-up on this.

Maybe sooner than later. If Joe comes over and figures out the AC thing... I'll have all I need. Guess I'll have to hassle him.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

so for the stim board, the 99 is the same as the earlier ones?

is their a write up that talks about the differences between the 99 ms build and the earlier ones?

i am not sure but it seems like i dont want to start building the ms to the 94-97 spec because i might mess stuff up/ have to redo things..
any help with what i have to do and how the regular ms build varies from the 99 build would be greatly appreciated!
thanks alot!
Henry

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

The STIM build has nothing to do with the year of your car. The stim merely acts as an engine simulator so you can trouble shoot the MS as you build it if needed.
The regular MS build doesn't vary from what you're doing. You are still just building a MS2 but once you're done you will be adding input circuits for the tach input. Solder away.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

thanks alot! so for the stim build, this is what i want to follow exactly..
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/v1stim.htm

for the ms board... http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm

and for the ms2 daughter card install.. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/install.htm

basically once i am done, with those builds i will have to follow other instructions to modify the ms to run with my 99?

again thanks alot! i will be sure to post my progress and questions when they will arise! thanks a ton!

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Off the top of my head (and I don't claim to have put a lot of thought into this, largely because I'm on my sixth rum & coke of the evening) you'll need to:

1- Do the PWM IAC mod, described in the main build documentation.
2- Do the dual spark output mod, described in DIY's "How to Megasquirt a Miata" writeup.
3- Build either the second trigger input described in the above writeup (noting that you'll wire to JS10 rather than JS8), or build Abe's dual op-amp circuit.
4- Install a relay driver for the fans.
5- (opt) Install a relay driver for VICS.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

thanks alot for your help!
for number 1, are you refering to the main build from megamanual.com?
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm step 62?

for number 4.... is there anywhere this is documented with directions i can follow... since i am such a lol
again thanks for the help!
oh for 3, what would be easier to do?
again thanks a bunch to everyone!

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

For #3, the moding it is easier to do. But then there's a good chance you'll have to redo it. I'd recommend doing the op-amp circuit I showed you, you'll be less likely to have to redo it later.

Also,I didn't use a relay for the VICS. I maybe should have, but I didn't. You could probably get away without it, just use a big transistor to run it. It switches basically everytime you rev past 5200 rpm, so make sure your relay isn't one of these 500 use things. :-P

Maybe I should put a relay in mine...

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

ok so i started to more in depth look at the parts and where things will go (on the stim build).. ..
i know its been a while but i have been occupied with other things lately such as finals and getting a wisdom tooth pulled
i realized that http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/v1stim.htm instructions are not for the stim i have. i have the stim v1.3. can i follow these instructions http://www.jbperf.com/JimStim/JimSti..._assembly.html ?

i am also getting kind of discouraged by this build and my shitty soldering ability.'

is their anyone out their that would be willing to build this for me for some CASH?!? how much do these builds usually cost?
i am just sort of frustrated currently with all these electronical pieces and stuff.
/bitching.
but if anyone would seriously want to do a build for me for money. i would be most appreciative.
thanks again guys!
Henry

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

again after more research i am still confused about my stim. my stim board says its a 1.3. it doesnt look like this http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...bled-p-30.html.
it looks like http://www.jbperf.com/JimStim/JimSti..._assembly.html. whats up with x2 and x3? can i just build this stim and be ok or do i need the 2.2 version? the 2.2 looks much simpler to build!
thanks guys.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

Anyone have any input? Please? It looks to me like the one I have will work, but will it?
Thanks again in advance!

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

If that photo looks like what you got, you got a Stimulator, not a JimStim. It doesn't have the wheels, which are really nice. But, you know, you got what you got. The place might have taken it back,but if you've been soldiering on it, I'm sure you're stuck with it. So do it and relax. At least you're not wrecking anything too cool. :-P

As to the soldering... What do you have for an iron? Do you have flux-cored solder? You need to apply enough heat to get things warm.

If you have someone in town who knows how to solder... Have them spend ten minutes with you - there's not a lot to it. Basicallly you heat everything to the melting point of solder, and it takes care of itself.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

so will the stimulator work though? i am assuming from your response it should be ok?

i have seen people solder a while ago... i have a 25w iron. it is flux cored i believe, 60-40. i know the theory, am just worried i will either not have a good connection, or i will overheat the component... i know your only supposed to apply the iron for only a few seconds, but it seems like sometimes its not enough, or i have to add more solder to get a better cone shape.
how easy is it to really over heat components. i know leds are easier to overheat.. but with the other components, is it really easy to overheat them?
also, if i just enough solder to barely coat the lead and feel the hole with solder, is that enough or should i be applying to get more of a visible cone?
thanks alot for the help!!!