Serper3

iTrader: (3)

I am going to try to go standalone. I need to build abes circuit as well as fan mods, ac and alternator.. Do I still need to jump d1 and d2 since I am doing ms2 standalone with nb sensors?

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

I kind of tested the power and it was ok. I do need to test the other stuff... Should I build the other mods before I test? do I need to jump d1 and d2? I think I should be able to handle rebuilding the motor though. hopefully we won't have to go their... Btw are those black heat shrinks required though for the jumpers?

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

I'll have to check on what D1 and D2 ever are, when I get time, from the looks of it, that won't be until thursday. :-) Tell me what they are and maybe I could help. There's never a bad time to learn how to read a schematic.

YES you should test everything. Those MS-II chips are like $90 each, how many would you like to buy?

The altenator is effectively a stand alone thing, just go buy the box, put it on the car, it has very little to do with the MS.

The AC you'll have to bug Joe about. He's 3" from done on this thing, get him to finish it.

Heat shrink (insulator of some sort) is *REQUIRED* anywhere two metal things might touch. Asking if a jumper needs insulator is like asking if a hose in your engine bay needs a ziptie. It depends how long it is and what it's going near. When in doubt, put some on. If it has bare metal going near other bare metal you must insulate it.

I drove my fans from me center LED.


This is an early drawing, I'm not even sure it's right. But I think so.



This is what I did, note I added an extra jumper in parallel with the trace to be SURE I wouldn't burn anything out. It'll handle more current than I'll ever need. Also, I used higher current transistors than those supplied by DIY autotune. Theirs are something like 200 mA, and you can get radioshack NPN's that'll do 800 mA (though they come in a mixed pack so you gotta be careful which you use), that way I'm not going to burn anything out and have my fans suddenly stop working 6 months from now.


Congrats, I think you're going to make it. :-)

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

To be clear, Serper- you are going to do one or the other. If you build Abe's circuit, then do not jump Tsel or TachSelect.

D1 and D2 are the Wing and John diodes in the Hall / Opto input circuit. If he builds your opamp circuit, that part of the board won't really be used. If he uses the stock hall / opto input for the CKP, then jump 'em.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

Thanks a lot for your help guys!! It defnitately helps boost moral knowing that u think its gonna work abe.. lol I am worried about doing the mods though as well as building the harness. Oh and as well as getting this thing to run software wise seems kinda intense.
Speaking of other stuff I need to order the harness tonight when I get home and those pins for my harness from that site I posted earlier... (Almost all the posts I post during the day are on my blackberry) I think that's all I need...

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys I want to order and get the harness stuff as soon as possible... My harness is supposed to look like that in post 8 of this thread right? I see other harnesses that have several connectors on one end by that is for parallel right? It looks to me like I need part number 1745187 from onlinecomponents.com. I also need a lot of those pins that fit into that connector right? (Don't have the part number now) but that should be it as far as I know right?
Thanks guys!
****. I just noticed they are out and won't be getting more till like november!

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Alternately, you could do what I did when building Chris' new harness- get an old stock ECU and cut the connector off the board:

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

Do u know how much a decent price would be for a used ecu if I go that route? From What years can the ecu be? All I need would be to get the ecu with the pigtail and connector... Then I can cut of the wires closest To the stock ecu and I would be ok right? sorry, now that i am looking at regular size, i can see that the yellow connector i need has those pins sticking out.. if i get the ecu with the connector on it, would i still need to get those pins? is there another retailer that sells these connectors? i am thinking boomslang but i dont see it on their website....

Marc D

iTrader: (7)

that wont work brain, the connectors the 99's use are 3 plugs. I dont see many cheap 99+ ECUs.

Matt Cramer

Yes, but it's easy to find cheap OBD-I Honda ECUs. These have the same plug as '99-'00 Miatas.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

$4.73, or however much else the buyer is willing to pay.
It'll vary greatly. For a '90-'93 Miata, and ECU '90-'95 (and possibly (-'97) would work, but for a '95 car, you'd not be able to use the '90-'93 ECU. Or, as Matt said, there are other potential donors as well. Lots of dead Hondas out there in the world.
Not even. Just the bare ECU itself.
Remember- that connector used to be soldered to a PCA. The "pins" are captive in the connector- they're what held the connector to the board. To remove the connector, you'll dike the pins off the board, leaving stubs long enough to solder onto.
Yes.
I'd rather rape my own grandfather than buy from boomslang. But since you ask, they sell harness extensions for all Miatas '90-'05.


Oh, one last thing:

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

A: Braineack and I are two different people.
B: Oh, nevermind... just A.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

Sorry, I will pay more attention to that darn shift key .
I ordered the ecu connection harness thing!
It looks like I just need to do the mods and test it, build the harness and put on the car and tune/configure it...
Been working so much though I barely have any time to work on it..
Also, with my ms kit I got a baggie with lots of resistors and stuff... It was labeled mk pull up I believe... Should this be all I need for the mods beside the main transistor?
Also, if someone would be kind enough to pm me there number so I could maybe ask a few questions if I get stuck while doing the mods... I would greatly appreciate it since it would speed things up greatly.. I promise I won't stalk or call excessively .

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

So before I start with building or attempting to build the circuits, I want to make sure I have everything that I need to build.
1. fan drive. post 104.

2. crank and camshaft inputs. post 98.

3. finish pwm idle valve. purple box in megamanual.
For this I just need to run the jumpers to q4 I believe.
It seems like you guys have alot more things jumped in you pictures. What else would I be missing once all of this is done?
Lastly, for building my harness, can I follow Braineaks sticky?
and

What do I do where it says cut to ecu?
Thanks guys.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

After reading over this post and digesting over this material for... alot more... I am beggining to understand how the mods work..
I was confused at first where sensor out goes for the crank and camshaft input mods.. I now see that they go directly to the wiring harness. (Post before this one, third graphic) 2 Corresponds to the middle part and the letter J and H to the prong on the adapter respectively. This seems simple now, but its like an epiphamy for me .
Comparing this image to the other ones that represent the same thing, I see that I am supposed to just create the same circuit twice, once from 2j to tsel and once from 2h to js10. I was confused before about why their where two listings under in and out.
Otherwise, I did buy a seperate board like I believe Abe reccomended to construct my circuits on.. Is it bad to just leave them on that board and put everything in the case? Or should I transfer everything to the proto area. It just seems like things will get real tight in their real soon..
I am going to try to build the crank and camshaft inputs tomorrow. I am not really sure how the fan control mod works. Hopefully I will get my adapter tomorrow so I can start building my harness but I am not sure how that works or if the diagrams I have posted before this are correct for my application.
BTW I hope you guys dont think I am a complete idiot because I just realized where these circuits go.. this stuff is really challenging for me . I hope my issues and questions though can help others and I am very much still planning on making/writing up a how to.
Again thanks alot guys.
Sorry also.. Since I am doing these things, looking at an earlier post:
Do i still need to do that? (I think so, since the abe mod is for the inputs, we need an outputs mod too right?)
Last thing for today I promise.. looking at the dual bi-fet opamp.. it looks like I can wire both the crank and cam circuits to one "chip" right? Or do I need to use two, one for each one. I am looking at the pin out.. since their are two sets of out and in on the pin am I correct to assume I only need one? I am really taking a stab at this since I have never done this before..
Thanks much.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

No worries, it looks like you're coming along. It's realizing how this stuff WORKS that makes doing it possible - otherwise you're just putting things in places and have no clue what it is.

Yes, two ins, two outs, one chip. I was going to try to get you a picture of it, but I don't have one.


Ok, honestly, I only kept this drawing because I thought it was funny (no offense to my buddy who drew it) but it gives you an idea, yeah - every pin on this chip is used.

As to the fans, I think my diagram isn't right, though it's not in a way that effects you: The other end of the relay goes to power not to ground. Nonetheless, internally you build it the same way - though I'd rather see the diode to +12V would be better on the boomslang.

Speaking of boomslangs, what is this harness thing you bought? If it's a boomslang you'll have all this stuff you're not going to use! Literally half of it.

I have an excel spreadsheet which is messy, very messy, but much closer to what you're planning on building. It might be better than trying to figure out from those drawings, overall I find them to be good support information but a little confusing if it's all you have. I'll have to dig for this stuff at home. Lukcy for you I have a long boring weekend planned.

Oh, and I'll happily post Joe's cell number on here - he's driving cross country and could probably use a chat just to keep himself from getting bored.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

I have been to several radio shacks and a frys and unfortunately I can't find the LM393 or the dual bi-fet opamp. I ended up getting, from frys, a dual op amp but it doesn't say bi-fet on it. Maybe it doesn't need to say bi-fet on it? The part number of the one I got from frys is nte778a.. Would this work or am I going to have to order this online?
I am currently going to another frys to see if they have something that resembles more of what I need..
Thanks for your reply abe! I really appreciate the help! I am excited about ur uneventful week.. Today is my first day off in 7 days!

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Heh, it sucks to work that much.

Tell them you want a TL082 on the phone, see what they come up with?


Now of course you owe me your first born. Unless it's a dude, I'm not into that.

Serper3

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. That makes it alot easier. I ended up buying another one that I thought would work that was supposed to be same as the LM393. I googled the LM393 and found the frys brand part number. Oh well. I will just go with the TL082.
Yea it sucks to work alot because, well, its alot of work.. on the other hand, Its kinda nice because I get to spend it in fun ways. I just baught Tein Coilovers for instance. I am pretty excited and this makes working more totally worth it. I just feel like my car is way too stock since currently my only after market parts are the racing beat intake which came on the car, and Kosei k1 wheels with hancook rs2 tires which I bought from a friend for a real nice price.
With how much you have helped me already.. you can have all my children!
JK.. but at least let me get your email adress so I can send you some money to buy a six pack.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

All my family lives in the bay area, so you can buy me one in person some day. :-)

I don't want to think about tiens, I have enough troubles thinking about suspension as is!!! OMG.

Anyway, the TL082 is a more user friendly chip I'd say. Good luck with it all, and if you PM me, I'll get an email and probably see it pretty quick.