carnut169

Purchased an MS3 basic from MSlabs (Rev).

Feeling a bit overwhelmed at the moment. It did not come with anything but a test sheet, the ecu and a harness of some sort.

I have read a ton of posts, but not sure which apply to my car and the MS3 I have... do I need to build some sort of gizmo for the alternator? Configure the timing? A hundered other things, or just unplug the factory ecu and plug this one in? I know I'll need a WB (buying today) and a IAT (GM?) which I'm also ordering (ebay) today but how do they get hooked up?

Is there an instruction sheet? I'm great at following directions but a lot of what I'm reading is for folks building their own MS systems and I think this one is already setup? Autotune... box came without any software... where do I find this? I know all of these answers are on this site somewhere. However, a lot of the information was posted in 2007-2008 before the MS3 existed, and now there are MS1, Ms2, Ms3 and 3-4 variations of each not to mention all the different Miata configurations.

Would love to install this this weekend but it's like someone handed me a box of parts and said build it when I'm not even sure what I'm building.

HELP!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

plug it in and drive.

and l2t

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

Well, not to sound like a DB... Google is your friend and the search function on this site is a great tool.

You need to download Tunerstudio (and, after spending the amount you did you may as well go for the 'paid' version). Then read through the Tunerstudio web site and re-read again a few times. You'll need the USB cable/laptop to connect to the MS3

The MS3 has alternator control so you don't need anything else.

Rev should've sent you an zip file with an *.ini file and instructions with wiring pinouts etc for the wideband. If not, you should PM him (I have MS2 not MS3 so sorry if the MS3 doesn't use/need the *.ini file).

Wiring the GM IAT is pretty straightforward but you need to figure out where you're going to put it.

You'll need to either lose the front O2 sensor or have another bung welded into the downpipe for the Wideband sensor.

Other than that, take your time + do the research on each step + take your time.

1. Install wideband + calibrate
2. Install GM IAT Sensor + wire it
3. Remove ECU + Install MS3
4. Tune

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Shoot Rev an email with your order number and ECU serial number. I believe he should have a set of instructions for you that will walk you through the install, setup, calibration and first start. At least, that's what I've seen from his other units.

simongabriel

iTrader: (3)

This is what i had when i got my ms3 basic from rev. The went pretty well have fun!


Instructions for the MS Labs

Basic MS3 ECU

1. Download TunerStudio from tunerstudio.com and install. Forget anything you

may have read about MegaTune or EasyTherm, it will not work with this ECU.

2. Download the drivers for your USB adapter and install.

3. 90-93 1.6 (US; 94-97 EU 1.6 as well) only: VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! Remove the 10A

"ST SIGN" from the engine bay fuse box. If you do not do this, the ECU will be

damaged and you will not be able to start the car!!! If you do NOT have a variable TPS,

you should also disconnect your stock TPS from the car. The ECU will not be damaged

if you don't, however it will appear as if the ECU is not working at all. You will

need to fit a variable TPS to take full advantage of this ECU. A typical and

budget TPS is the Wells type 201.

4. Remove the stock ECU

5. Run a vacuum line from the intake manifold, just after the throttle body,

to the ECU (the connection is under the DB37 socket). If you don't do this,

the car may not start at all, or may shoot black smoke out of the exhaust.

6. Connect the ECU to the stock harness.

7. If you want to use a GM IAT sensor, it must now be wired in.

• On the 99-05 (Non-MSM), simply replace the stock air temperature sensor found

• On the MSM, the GM sensor replaces the stock air sensor that is on the TB

• On the US 90-93 1.6L (and European 94-97 1.6L), the GM sensor replaces the

• On the 94-97 1.8L, the GM sensor replaces the sensor that is inside the MAF

on the air filter box with the GM sensor. There is no polarity on the wires.

elbow.

sensor that is inside the AFM (Air Flow Meter). Disconnect the AFM, and pull

back the rubber boot of the AFM's connector. You should see 7 wires on it. The

GM IAT connects to the red/green and black/green wires. No polarity.

(Mass Air Flow) sensor. Disconnect the MAF, and pull back the rubber boot of

the MAF's connector. You should see 5 wires on it. The GM IAT connects to the

red/black and black/green wires. No polarity.

8. Switch the ignition to ON, do NOT start the car yet. When you switch the ignition to

ON, you should hear the fuel pump priming for 2 seconds. If you do not year the fuel

pump priming, and your car is a JDM/Eunos, I may have included three connectors on

the harness adapter that have purple wires on them. Two of the connectors are male,

the third connector is female. Switch the female connector from the one of the males to

the other, and try again.

9. Connect the USB cable to the PC. Windows should detect and install your

cable.

10. After the device has been installed successfully, open the Device Manager

(Control Panel -> System -> Hardware -> Device Manager) and click "Ports" to

see which COM port it is under (usually between COM1 and COM10).

11. Save the attached .ini file on your Desktop.

12. We are ready to connect to the ECU. Run TunerStudio.

13. Click File -> New Project

14. Give your project a name - anything will do.

15. Under ECU definition, click "Other" and browse to the file you saved on

16. your desktop (the one attached in this email)

17. Click Next

18. Select:

• Oxygen Sensor: Wideband / AFR

• Temperature display: Celcius/Farenheit (whatever works for you)

• CAN COMMANDS: Deactivated

• EXPANDED CLT TEMP: Activated

• MPH: Activated

• Meters: Activated

• Internal log fields: Deactivated

• Use CRC data check: Deactivated

• PW 4X: Deactivated

• Cyl 12-16 support: Deactivated

19. Click Next

20. Under Port, select the COM port you found the USB cable to be under (ie

probably COM1 through 10)

21. Click "Test Port" - you should get "Successfull". If not, try with other

ports until you succeed.

22. Click Next.

23. Select the gauge style you want

24. Click Finish

25. You should see the gauges and you should be in Online mode.

26. Calibrate your TPS (if you have a variable TPS): Tools -> Calibrate TPS.

Do not press the throttle at all, and click the top "Get Current". Then press

the throttle fully, and click the bottom "Get Current" button. The click

Close. Now when you slowly press the throttle, the "Throttle Position"

indication should slowly go from 0% to 100%.

27. 90-97 cars must ABSOLUTELY set their base timing with a timing light!!!

99-05 cars will have a 0.5-2 degrees variance - you can drive the car in

low/medium revs/loads and you shouldn't have a problem, however you should

still set the base timing.

28. There are several free-hanging wires on the adapter loom (depending on your

request):

• Yellow - Wideband input. Connect this to your wideband analog output

• Grey – Switchable tables (optional). Connect this to a ground (through an on/off

• Brown – Launch control input. Connect to a ground (through a momentary

• Brown and Green (twisted together)- Ignition output C (brown) and ignition

• Pink and Violet – Injection output C (pink) and injection output D (violet) (90-93

switch) to switch between VE/Ignition tables.

switch) to enable launch (when pressed).

output D (green)

only)

• Pink and White (twisted together) – Oil pressure input (white; resistive), oil

temperature (pink; resistive). Connect to sensor. The other end of the sensor

goes to ground.

• Violet (purple) – VVT control solenoid (negative side) to use on 01-05 engine

swaps. The other pin of the valve needs a switched and fused (5A) 12V power

supply. The valve does not have a polarity.

• Green - Boost control output. Connect this to a boost control valve. The other

wire of the boost control valve needs to be connected to a switched and fused

12V source. A 5A fuse is recommended.

• White – Knock input. Connect to a knock sensor.

• Red – Datalog start/stop.Connect this to a switched 12V source (through an

on/off switch) to start/stop datalogging to the SD card.

• Orange - Free programmable output (Nitrous 2), low side. Can drive any load up

to 5A.

• Setting the base timing:

1. Run TunerStudio and open your project

2. Make sure you are in Online mode

3. Go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings

4. Set "Fixed Advance" to "Fixed Timing"

5. Set "Timing for Fixed Advanced" to "10".

6. Click Burn (if running, the engine may die at this point)

7. Switch the ignition off and on again.

8. Start the car

9. The crank pulley on the 99-05 has two marks on it. The left mark should align

with the "10" sign just behing the pulley, while the right mark should align with

the "T" mark behind the pulley. On the 90-97, there is only one mark, which

should align with the “10” mark.

10.Go to Tools -> Trigger Wizard

11. Press the "-" and "+" buttons until both marks on the pulley are properly aligned.

On the 90-97, there is only mark, so that should align with “10”.

12.Press Burn when you are done. The engine may die.

13.Go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings

14.Set "Fixed Advance" back to "Use Table" and click Burn

15.Switch the ignition off and on again - this is very important, if you don't do it, the

car will not start.

16.Start the car - the base timing is now set properly!

You are now ready to start the car and tune!

• Basic considerations for autotune (“VE Analyze Live” aka VEAL)

◦ Don't let VEAL autotune your idle – in most cases you will get a hunting (oscillating)

idle as if your car has aggressive cams. To fix this, go to “VE Analyze Live” →

Advanced Settings ->Min RPM and set it to 1500rpm.

◦ VEAL also likes to pull fuel on the very low load areas and as a result, after

◦ For the first 20 minutes of autotuning, set “Cell Change Resistance” to “Easy” to get

◦ As you go along and you are happy with the results, increase the Resistance

◦ To get good results with VEAL, you need to drive VERY smoothly, as if you were

◦ Make sure you sweep all areas of the fuel map by setting a fuel load target (adjust

◦ Start from 40% and increase the fuel load target by 10% each time, until your

◦ If you can't reach the rev limiter with very low fuel loads (ie 40%, 50%), use a lower

◦ Keep your eye on the AFR gauge – if it is too lean (especially under load) step off

◦ Make sure “Update Controller” is enabled.

◦ Click “Burn” every 5 minutes to make sure you don't lose any progress if your

autotuning for a while the car may hesisate at very low loads. To fix this, go to “VE

Analyze Live” → Advanced Settings ->Min fuelload and set it to 30kPa.

some quick results. Then set it back to “Normal”.

setting above even more.

driving on ice. This means very smooth transitions on the throttle.

your right foot on the throttle so the fuel load remains constant while driving) then

sweep through the entire RPM range up to the rev limiter. For example, try to

achieve a constant 50% fuel load with the throttle while the RPMs increase. Repeat

as many times needed for this particular fuel load target.

maximum achievable fuel load has been reached.

gear (1st, 2nd, etc).

the throttle and add some fuel manually to the map before proceeding any further!

laptop dies of battery or crashes, etc

Dimitris

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

And while the directions YOU got with YOUR MS3 Basic might work for you, OP may have his wired slightly differently depending on how Rev built the unit. I'm not saying they will or they won't work, what I'm saying is that if they don't, its going to be am expensive fix.

OP: if I were you I would STILL wait for Reverant to get back to you and confirm.

simongabriel

iTrader: (3)

Its look like universal from my eye, Because it have specification for years and model.But i can be worng im no expert!

carnut169

Thanks guys Rev did send a list very similar to the one above.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

And as mentioned, you will need the .ini file. Then things will run OK, but not perfect. Then you learn, and change things, and results will vary, but slowly get better than as received. HOWEVER, keep that original base map (tune) for reference.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

+1 to that. Keep a copy of that base config saved somewhere safe. That saved my *** more than once with my DIYPNP

Boris

iTrader: (1)

Just PM REV. He built the thing and knows exactly what and where.
He's answered every one of my questions, even the stupid ones.

6speed

If it's like my 2000 model, it's pretty simple. Run a vacuum line off of a T at one of your existing lines. Install and wire-up your WB. Unplug and remove the factory ECU, and plug in the MS3 and zip tie it up under the dash. You should be able to use your factory IAT sensor, but if you want to place it with the GM part that's a superior sensor. Start the car and begin tuning/tweaking with tunerstudio.