Ms installation issues.
#41
Well when i built your MS i could have included a modification for Fan control so we could turn them on at a lower temp. Didn't think you would be needing it with a PWR and the FCM fans/shroud. It's a little late for all that now though. As of now the only way I know for you to turn your fans on at a earlier temp would be to wire in a inline switch to turn them on manually or get in the diagnostic box and jumper them on all the time. Pretty sure that can be done.
If you want i can line you and Manny up on how to modify the MS for fan control. It's not very hard, and it takes a couple electronic components but if I put them in the mail when i got back you could get it done sometime this spring no problem.
If you want i can line you and Manny up on how to modify the MS for fan control. It's not very hard, and it takes a couple electronic components but if I put them in the mail when i got back you could get it done sometime this spring no problem.
#42
Original/Mazda_New/NAPA
If I could find a 180 that opened as wide as my 160 does, I'd get that.
Addtional pics:
http://abefm.smugmug.com/gallery/1807308
The info on how to unhook the WG is good but at my age I really don't need to do that. I've also got the Knocksense sensor installed (granted in the wrong location, right next to the CAS and I'll also get to changing it soon) but one thing I did which I really like and I'll take some pics and show them just in case anyone else wants to do it was to put the led on a small hole I made to the 2 gauge pod I have installed. Love that location, it scares the hell out of me.
Pulling the WG is great - there's SO much more of the off-boost map you can readily tune that way. It takes about 15 seconds with a cold motor. Just pull the c-clip and lift the arm off.
It's unhooked here (so is the turbo, this will ALSO limit boost. :-P)
I put a 2.2 k-ohm resistor in, and they weren't working really well. Recommended was 1k. Now I have 470 ohms and they work perfect. Basically, all I do is use an output of the MS to power the relays, and turn the fans on, then I select what temp I want them to come on at. I think the MS table is off (temps were reporting high!).
#45
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Well when i built your MS i could have included a modification for Fan control so we could turn them on at a lower temp. Didn't think you would be needing it with a PWR and the FCM fans/shroud. It's a little late for all that now though. As of now the only way I know for you to turn your fans on at a earlier temp would be to wire in a inline switch to turn them on manually or get in the diagnostic box and jumper them on all the time. Pretty sure that can be done.
If you want i can line you and Manny up on how to modify the MS for fan control. It's not very hard, and it takes a couple electronic components but if I put them in the mail when i got back you could get it done sometime this spring no problem.
If you want i can line you and Manny up on how to modify the MS for fan control. It's not very hard, and it takes a couple electronic components but if I put them in the mail when i got back you could get it done sometime this spring no problem.
About the second option; do you think RadioShack would have those electronic components? plenty of those here plus the General Manager is a very close friend of mine. I can ask him the favor to order the components if they carry them. I'm sure between Manny and me we can safely take care of that.
I have to read Abe's post. I'll have questions.
Thanks,
#47
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Hey Abe, I checked your link. I agree with your concept. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get a 180* one but I'll check some local shops. I want some info on the specific NAPA part so I can contact them. I like that one. Let me know what parts I should order.
Another thing I'm going to do tomorrow morning is to install the real water temp I bought (it's an Autometer and that ****** was expensive!). I hate the one in my car. When it finally reacts my car is already overheating
Another thing I'm going to do tomorrow morning is to install the real water temp I bought (it's an Autometer and that ****** was expensive!). I hate the one in my car. When it finally reacts my car is already overheating
#48
What year is your car? You can "linearlize" your guage. It's a big pain in the butt, but it looks good when you do it. Basically, get the stock guage to respond to what the sender is saying. It takes some soldering, some experimentation, etc.
Shoot, I don't have the part number, when I went to Vista all my old email didn't come with me (someone have a PST to anything-else converter??)... But go on miata.net and search "NAPA 160" or similar and you'll find it soon enough. I was on the miatapower.net list for a while and I know it's on there.
-Abe.
Shoot, I don't have the part number, when I went to Vista all my old email didn't come with me (someone have a PST to anything-else converter??)... But go on miata.net and search "NAPA 160" or similar and you'll find it soon enough. I was on the miatapower.net list for a while and I know it's on there.
-Abe.
#49
You can get the components to do the Fan mod at radioshack Rafa. These two links have parts lists and directions on how to complete it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...18&postcount=3
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...#Add_Output_v3
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...18&postcount=3
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...#Add_Output_v3
#50
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You can get the components to do the Fan mod at radioshack Rafa. These two links have parts lists and directions on how to complete it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...18&postcount=3
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...#Add_Output_v3
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...18&postcount=3
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...#Add_Output_v3
I'll read both very carefully and get back to you with my questions but I'll wait a few days to do it. In the meantime I'm going to do the same thing I did with my son's Opel. Those fans are going to be working overtime for a few days!
Thanks guys. It's almost 10 pm and I haven't slept well in quite some time. FWIW Chad, as far as I know you've helped turbo the first Miata in DR. You all should be very proud.
In a few days I'll start a thread to convey my feelings. In the meantime:
THANKS FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART AND HAPPY NEW YEAR! I feel like I should give you a rest for a few days.
p.s. Chad, you should also be proud of the fact that Cristian has faced issues of his own in the last 2 days and he had no input on the cops conversion or starting my car. I'm running it at 93 octane with toluene as a booster.
Happy trails,
Rafa
#51
What year is your car? You can "linearlize" your guage. It's a big pain in the butt, but it looks good when you do it. Basically, get the stock guage to respond to what the sender is saying. It takes some soldering, some experimentation, etc.
Shoot, I don't have the part number, when I went to Vista all my old email didn't come with me (someone have a PST to anything-else converter??)... But go on miata.net and search "NAPA 160" or similar and you'll find it soon enough. I was on the miatapower.net list for a while and I know it's on there.
-Abe.
Shoot, I don't have the part number, when I went to Vista all my old email didn't come with me (someone have a PST to anything-else converter??)... But go on miata.net and search "NAPA 160" or similar and you'll find it soon enough. I was on the miatapower.net list for a while and I know it's on there.
-Abe.
Abe, i'm in dire need of some temp gauge linearization help. When I did it i followed some odd instructions on m.net and now i have a gauge that sits in the middle and never moves. From the time i turn the car on to the time i turn it off nothing changes. Do you have a certain writeup you followed, or added to. I remember you saying you used a POT, but i could be mistaken.
#52
Sigh, again, not having access to my old email is killing me.
The be all end all article was by Wally from miatapower and miata.net: http://www.gravitydesign.net/saturn/miata/mtglp.cfm
But I guess his site is down. Shoot. I'd go asking him about it, he did have a write up I used. But if you dig around on my site, you should get which pins to use.
http://abefm.smugmug.com/gallery/3923107#227732361 If you're careful you should figure out where I've put stuff, and mayve with the full size versions get an idea of the values.
I do know the pot ended up at almost a dead short, so using a smaller one would work. Also, use a high current power supply, I was shocked at how much current this thing drank.
But in the end, I could adjust both the offset and the scale. Worked quite well.
Looking at the pics, there's TWO pots. There's also a zener diode I removed, that's what makes it NON linear.
The be all end all article was by Wally from miatapower and miata.net: http://www.gravitydesign.net/saturn/miata/mtglp.cfm
But I guess his site is down. Shoot. I'd go asking him about it, he did have a write up I used. But if you dig around on my site, you should get which pins to use.
http://abefm.smugmug.com/gallery/3923107#227732361 If you're careful you should figure out where I've put stuff, and mayve with the full size versions get an idea of the values.
I do know the pot ended up at almost a dead short, so using a smaller one would work. Also, use a high current power supply, I was shocked at how much current this thing drank.
But in the end, I could adjust both the offset and the scale. Worked quite well.
Looking at the pics, there's TWO pots. There's also a zener diode I removed, that's what makes it NON linear.
#54
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Chad, we finally got the car to 8psi of boost without detonation. Ignition was very retarded. Thanks, I know that was you trying to take care of my car. I appreciate it. We also changed the VE table, the overboost protection and the rev limiter to 7400. Don't worry I'm babying it.
A couple extra little things. The fans were not working because the fuse was blown. Changed it this morning but the fans will only come in after the MS reads something like 209*. Too high and they immediately come in when I turn the A/C on. I'm running 93 octane based on the Toluene mix. The other thing was the MS not reading AFR; they had connected it to the Lambda at the shop, when they changed it to the O2 sensor it started reading it. I still have to change the LC-1 to the one WOT sent me. I'll also be moving the bung further away from the turbo.
Thanks for everything.
Rafa
A couple extra little things. The fans were not working because the fuse was blown. Changed it this morning but the fans will only come in after the MS reads something like 209*. Too high and they immediately come in when I turn the A/C on. I'm running 93 octane based on the Toluene mix. The other thing was the MS not reading AFR; they had connected it to the Lambda at the shop, when they changed it to the O2 sensor it started reading it. I still have to change the LC-1 to the one WOT sent me. I'll also be moving the bung further away from the turbo.
Thanks for everything.
Rafa
#58
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BTW, I figure I'll be visiting the Dyno on the first or second week of 2008.