Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Easy for you Abe. I've never even seen a jimstim! Only heard others speak about them. BTW, I haven't forgotten about my Knocksense led and taking the pic. I really think that came out good. I'll take some tomorrow morning. I just saw it's not actually in the pod but in the Begi Boost gauge.

About the coolant mod is not so much being afraid to solder. The friend who helped me with the coil on plugs is really good at it; it's more with the fact that I don't really understand the instructions

I'd rather wait a few days. I'm going to have another EMS that I don't plan to use but then, if I mess up I won't be stranded without my car for 3 weeks like now:gay:

This turbo thing is really fun. I just surprised my first 355 tonight. haha.

Rafa

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Oh, yeah, it's a weird feeling that....

Before my turbo, I had an expression, getting v-8'ed. On the way home from work, there's two long, high speed turns followed by a big hill. I could take just about any non-exotic through the turns, but then up the hill every plane-jane mustang would leave me in the dust. I got "v-8'ed".

Now* a mustang really has to be something special, they are much more rare than a quick evo oh something, but generally it's only Z06's that I worry about, and even then it comes down to who's driving.


*Stictly speaking, now I'm quite slow. NA power, below 1/4 throttle and 2/3 revs. ha.

When you get the ECU, speak up, I'm sure you'll get solid directions for this mod.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

This raises a good point which I'd never really considered before. There are a couple of very basic "how to solder" tutorials that teach you about tip prep, what a good joint looks like, etc. But I don't think I've ever seen a basic "how to read schematics" tutorial. Just the basics like how to read netnames, how to understand current flow, how BJTs, FETs, diodes, etc work, that sort of thing.

Not sure if it'd be helpful to the total novice or not...

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

That is a good point. That's why those links i posted are so great. One has schematics, another has a parts lists, both have pictures of the actual mod top and bottom. It's so well written out that I would hate for him to do it himself when I could just fly down to the DR and suffer through spring break is the tropics while i take 8 minutes to complete the fan mod

Why is this smilie like my user name cjerk= very close to cjernigan

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

True- that's good documentation.

The ones that bother me are, for instance, the ignition output mod. There are good written directions that say "attach a wire to the top of Rxx" and pictures that go along, but there's no damn schematic! So if I want to understand how the circuit works, I've gotta reverse-engineer it by eyeballing the PCB to see where the "top" of Rxx goes to, correlate that to the schematic, etc. So I've been working with an 11x17 printed copy of the schematic upon which I've done a lot of penciling.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

FWIW, you've already received that invitation in private. I'll make it here in the Forum so everyone who knows you can make fun of you: Both you and your companion are always welcome at my home. You'll have the use of a turboed Miata while here. I'm too old for you to be hanging around with but you can count on Manny (and even with Rafa jr and Charlie) to show you around. ****, I'll even get you the best rate possible at the best local beach hotels.

I'll make this info which I hadn't provided to you yet, public; check the net and look for "Punta Cana International Airport"; that one is one of the few "private" international airports in the world. If you decide to visit using that one I'll even give you VIP treatment and pick you and your companion at the plane's stairs. The owner of that particular airport just happens to be one of my closest friends. He's my oldest son's godfather. He just became filthy rich with time. We're still friends. Don't get the wrong idea, he is the one who's filthy rich, I'm just his friend.:gay:

I don't think I can offer you anything more. I got no clue on anything mechanical

Rafa

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Abe, I agree 100% with you. That's the reason I turboed my car.

about getting directions; I'll open the MS at that time and ask with pics.

Thanks for everything,

Rafa

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

A very good idea - though I think something going into that much depth might even be a bit intimidating unless you broke it up into sections.

Certainly, day one:
Ground/Vcc, etc
Wires
Resistors
Diodes
Capacitors
Inductors

The last two are a little conceptually difficult, and you hard see enough of the latter to make it worth studying (we're not all RF folks, you know). But you could make one cheat sheet for those.

Then a second one that's entirely transistors. Explain ONE in detail (this opens the gate/turns the valve/etc), and then show different kinds and how they are all basically the same.

Lastly, special topics, like limiting current through a LED, what Zener Diodes do, what a relay does, etc. You could also litter it with things like fuses, lamps, etc.

But I'd want to see each mentioned part with a picture (sketch/photo), pins clearly labled with unambiguous understanding of "top" and "front", etc. Each section would need that. Maybe add pages for very simple circuits, Vcc-switch-light-ground. A voltage divider. On the second page, maybe the current limiter from the MS, that's a nice circuit, complex but simple.

When you getting back in town??

thebeerbaron

iTrader: (1)

Back in the day (ha!) I got my introduction to electronic components by studying for an Amateur Radio license (aka a Ham radio license). I don't know how popular amateur radio is for our friend from the DR, but here the American Radio Relay League (ARRL) publishes a great handbook that will simply inundate you with electronics info. Granted a whole heck of a lot of it has to do with RF stuff you'll rarely need in an automotive setting, but it's all there.

There are all sorts of learning tutorials designed to explain the basic concepts to you, then train you on the practice questions you'll need to know to do the license test. Those might actually be a bit of a more gentle approach than the ARRL handbook. On the other hand, there are so many generations of the ARRL handbook that they're easily found dirt cheap or free, and age doesn't matter (within reason - you want less focus on vacuum tubes ), because the fundamentals are the same.

There are probably good Ham sites on the web that will teach you the basics, you might google amateur radio license tests or study material or something.

Anywho, sorry for the longish and slightly-off-topic post, hope it helps someone...

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

beerbaron, great info there. FWIW, also back in the day (hahaha) I used to have a 2 meter radio in my car but the one I bought I never even thought about opening it up!

I really like your idea to google amateur radio license. I'll pursue that option and keep on asking dumb questions:gay:

BTW, based on your sig I would say you know your beers. If so, I suggest you ask for a "Presidente" one day. That one is made locally and controls more than 90% of this market. If you find it and try it let me know.

Thanks to you and to Abe. I'll follow up on this electronic thing.

Rafa

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Here you go Abe, a pic of the knocksense led installed in the Begi boost gauge at the pod.

Regards,

Rafa

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

here's where i had put mine:

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Scott, you don't have a pod installed? I've got a momo steering wheel in the car and even though I like how it looks it interferes with my sight to some of my gauges. Anyways, in my particular case it's just sitting there looking pretty. It lights up but it doesn't mean anything. (It's sensor is connected to the CAS!). I guess I'll have to change the knocksense sensor to the right location myself, but that will have to wait until at least Wednesday.

Btw, would you mind if I pmed you my latest datalog? I'm having some significant issues with my LC1 and I'm afraid to run Ben's wrath if I start another LC1 bitching thread.:gay:

In short, when I powered up my car with the LC1 connected to the lambda cable I was not seeing any AFR readings on the MS; so, being as I am a complete Miata "expert" (hahaha), I changed that connection to the wire marked as "O2 sensor". I sent Chad my datalogs of last night and he, of course went ballistic. BTW, I still haven't told him that little bit of info about switching connections:gay:

Sorry,

Rafa

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

where was it installed before? i dont see how you guys are having all this trouble. where was the output connected in the first place? It's on the pink wire now?

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Let me try to make a long story short. About 6 months ago my O2 sensor got fried and I got an engine check light. Since, as you know, we don't have any local emissions laws I found a used LC1 on the mnet classified section and bought it. I then took it to the shop where they installed it. At that time I clearly knew much less than I do now so when they told me it did not work I just forgot about it. I was running around with an installed pod with 2 gauges, 1 for boost and another for A/F and neither worked!

So I get all my turbo parts and contact WOT who btw, was kind enough to ship me a new one even though he had nothing to do with the one I had previously bought. We get to the part when they have to check whether the LC1 installed works or not and they tell me that it indeed is working. I tow my car home and work on the cops. When I'm through installing them and fire up the car I check the LC1 and it jumps from the rich limit to the lean one, except when the car's idling which shows a perfect 14.7. In the meantime, I connect the MS and find that it's not reading AFRs.

I just went down to my car and took some pics. It's getting late and I don't know how they'll come up. We'll see; give me a few minutes.

Rafa

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Scott, pics attached. In the MS wires you can see we connected the one for the O2 sensor to the MS in the location where the Lambda one was connected. When the other one was connected the MS would not read any AFR. At least it's reading it now. Granted not the right readings.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

what readings does it give you? is your configurator and MSQ setup for LC1? I looks like you put it on the pink wire, which is correct. where was it before?


I'm confused to why the blue/wht wire is labeled fuel pump and the purple labeled EBC....did Chad make those labels?

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

I'll see about the configurator and MSQ setup. I would guess yes. What I did was disconnect the wire that Chad had labeled as lambda (which I knew was the right one for a wideband but was not getting an AFR reading in the MS) and connected the wire for the O2 sensor to that same location. From that moment on the MS would recognize AFR but only like it was a narrowband sensor.

I'm going to have to wait for Chad to read these posts to give me some input about how to make the MS read my AFR.

I have the case of the new LC1 right in front of me and I already checked a link posted in Sam's thread with a general explanation. I'll follow those instructions. I still think that the LC1 sensor bung I have on right now is too close to the turbo (less than 2 feet away).

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

open configurator. car1 settings settings lamda sensor, change to lc1 0-5v. (or default if you never changed the output).

go save open megatune.

go the basic settings.

exhaust gas settings

change narrowband to WB.

change the number below it to 2.5

burn.

AFR should read correctly.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Got the message. Just so you don't get pissed; even I realize I'm beyond help right now. The first thing I have to do is to disconnect the MS wire from the one labeled O2 sensor and connect to the one labeled lambda as per Chad's original suggestion. Once I do that, I'll follow your suggestions.

I'm reading the Innovate manual right now at their website. The more I read the less I like what I've been told they did at the shop. Small sample: "When installed in the exhaust, the oxigen sensor must be connected and operating with the LC-1 whenever the car is running. An un-powered oxigen sensor will be quickly damaged when exposed to hot exhaust gases". I repeatedly asked the shop to disconnect it the first time when I saw it wasn't working. Calibration of the sensor? what calibration! they never did such a thing. I also asked where it was grounded; never got an answer. I'll have to find out by myself tomorrow morning.

Scott, really thanks for the help but right now I need to get informed before asking any more questions. I have to find out where the sensor is grounded. ****, I have to change the Knocksense sensor location too. I specifically requested that they follow my instructions and even while I was present I couldn't get them to listen to me.

I have to take care of all this before asking any more stupid questions. At least I'm certain that I have no AFR problems and the engine is not in danger right now. We went out in my car with a sniffing wideband (the one you connect to the tailpipe and to the car's lighter) and the readings were all good, both in vacuum and in boost. It seems a lot of Cristian's customers just do not keep an account of what their cars' AFR are doing. I guess they feel that's too much of a hassle and why bother? since that is not my case I'll keep on getting informed.

I've got 2 short term priorities:
1.- change the location of the knocksense sensor in my engine and
2.- find out where my LC-1 is hooked up right now and then proceed with correcting any issues.

Once I do that I'll be back to make dumb questions. Don't doubt that for a second:gay:

Many thanks

Rafa