patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Solder and heat shrink everything. Many will disagree with this, arguing that solder could crack over time. But in the real world, I see crimp connectors fail all the time and never see a soldered joint fail. When I built my MS2 standalone (read, more standalone than yours), I soldered everything.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Am I still going to be able to use the mspnp 9093 .msq with the HR code? Are all the settings the same for idle etc? I flashed it to the ms last night and I think I may take a stab at installing this shiz today.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Truthfully, I don't know if the actual MSQ itself will be portable from lorez to hirez (I never tried it) however the vast majority of the tables and settings will work just fine. Idle, spark, cranking, warmup, etc should all be 100% correct. In my experience, VE will require some slight tweaking, but I emphasize slight- well within MLV's capabilities.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Ok, my level of confusion is growing now that i'm on Hires.

My required fuel calculator is throwing me off as well as the constants page. It keeps changing back to a 350CID engine with 42lb/hr injector flow. What should my settings be on engine constants and req fuel?

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I'll play. See how many types of connectors you see in my entire engine harness.






Answer: There's large butt connectors for the +12V wires where they go into the fuse holder. And a couple others. But 97% is soldered and heat shrinked.

Try opening Megatune, opening a known good MSQ, and then setting the constants you speak of, then close, then save. Reopen and see if they changes took effect.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

The calculator has no bearing on actual operation. It's just a tool to help you figure out the correct value to put into Req_Fuel. And yes, it resets itself every time you close it.

The Req_Fuel constant should not change much when switching between regular and HR code. Thus, assuming stock injectors I'd keep it at the stock DIY setting. For your 1.6, that would be 13.4.

The same goes for the rest of the engine constants. Start with the DIY values. Unless you've changed the injectors already, any tweaks to the defaults will be minor for now.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

I've changed all the settings to the DIY ones as outlined on their writeup. I've made sure my constants reflect the above. There still seem to be lots of menus with things that I haven't changed but i'll follow JP's advice and leave them be.

I guess i'm ready to start wiring things up. Brain's diagram of the Miata ECU harness with the callouts is only for paralell i assume. It seems to have several fewer callouts than wires that i'll need to splice in. What should I be following for wiring the pigtail into the stock harness?

Also, should I wire up the WB initially or get it to idle with the NB first before introducing too many questionmarks to the process? As for grounding, do I just run all the ground wires through the firewall to the valve cover directly?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that nothing else needs changing from a "bare" MSQ- lots of stuff in fact needs congifuring. Cranking, warmup / ASE, idle control (two pages' worth), some outputs, etc. What I am saying is that for starters, you can use the base maps (.MSQ file) that DIY distributes with the MSPNP: http://megasquirtpnp.com/mspnp_downloads.htm

Ideally, your own notes made while looking at a copy of the factory service manual's wiring diagram.

Assuming you built your MS essentially to Brainey's specs (in terms of pinout) then you can wire it the same way as he calls out. It doesn't matter, for instance, if you splice into a line rather than cutting said line if there's no ECU on the other end of the harness. Quite a few connections on my harness are tapped rather than cut, for no other reason than that they were tapped back when I had an EMU, and now it doesn't matter since the ECU is gone anyway.

The WBO2 should be installed and working before the MS goes in.

Yup.

Well, not the valve cover itself, but the main grounding point in the rear section of the head. (or is it the IM... I honestly can't remember where those bolts are...)

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Ok, thats why I asked earlier if I could actually use the MSPNP .msq with the HR code. I'll give it a shot.

I started tapping into the wires last night following brain's callouts on the stock ECU pinout. Rather easy once I figured out which way to look at the harnesses =P. All I need to tap is fans and idle i think other than what he has on there.

I came to this conclusion last night. Logically in my mind I didn't think the LC1 would work with the stock ECU. After reading the documentation, i realize that my logic is flawed.

There is kinda a bracket (one of the ones used to hoist the engine) that actually attaches from the valve cover to the manifold for that ground. Thanks for clearing that up, thought it sounded kinda iffy tapping into the stock ecu grounds. I'll run all my grounds through a heavyish gauge amp power wire I have sitting around

Last question for awhile...

I wired up my fans mod like in the writeup, which pin is that going to come out of on the DB37?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Give the DIY MSQ a shot. I can't think of any reason why it would not work, I just can't say for certain that it will.

IAC2A is pin 29.