so on. 0 | 1 for triggers. coolant > 200. 10 for hysteria.
It was idling for probably a good thirty or fourty minutes
In my output settings the PA0 is coolent > 175, hysteresis 5.0, power on values 0|1, should I then copy this all over to the warmup LED and disable the PA0, or am I to use the figures you gave me of 200 and 10 in the WLED field.
Do you think this is why it overheated, or is it possible I fuckered something else up to cause same result? Im going to get down there and try to take some footage of what happens when it stops raining so hard.
Thanks, could you clarify what exactly I am to do with the values. You told me to copy\paste them over but the values that you gave me are different than what I have. Do I use yours or do I recycle the ones in pa0. Also, do I disable pa0 or leave it enabled?
Cooling fans seemed to have turned on after I made the change. Thanks. Heres my datalog (I think). Is there any required throttle or behavior I should be doing when making a datalog? Anyway heres what I took.
UPDATE: Dicked with it some more. Slowly becoming a little more comfortable with the software.
I adjusted the timing. One question though- my pulley has two notches, which do I use? I used the one on the right as the left seemed less prominant. Regardless after that the car ran a little bit better.
My problem currently is that after anything over 2k rpms the car droops to a 500 idle and stays there. Ideas?
brain helped me with this one also when i did mine.
Use a socket and turn your crank pulley so the right notch lines up with TDC and the left one is on 10 degree. mark the far right notch with white out. use that as reference to get your timing to match 10 when you are using fixed.
So....I uninstalled the old ecu and bolted the MS in so I could finally go for a drive. I forgot to click stop on the datalog so I wasnt able to salvage anything, but one thing I did notice is that the car no longer limits the revs at slightly past 7k. Also, its missing a whole bunch of bawls but i am attributing that to my novice tuning properties. So what gives with the no rev limiter? I checked my variables and as far as I can tell theyre kosher.
Spliced in the 5/32" vaccum line to the back of tb, ran to ms, plugged into old ecu and tried to start car. As I understand(or maybe I don't) the ait sensor isn't crucial for me to just start the car, correct?
Car cranks and cranks but won't start. Will installing the ait fix this? Also, how in the hell do I secure the ait in my 99? Do I lop off the old one, wire the diy up and shove it into the rubber grommet?
I know its very basic but maybe somebody besides me can also benefit from it. I liked the article for his tables and charts that help explain what youre actually looking at when you open TS. The AFR table with designated examples of what the car is actually doing at that point helped me adjust some of my own on my table. I still am reading about fuel, and have no idea what to do with my fuel table, so I am semi recycling the one provided by DIYauto-tune still with my proper fan configs in.
I took it out for a run last night and got a data log thats not on this computer. Would anybody here be willing to look at it, or know what to look for, in order to give me some suggestions about what I am doing right\wrong?
I have another question too, actually. How do the red\blue\black numbers on the fuel table\afr table relate to what is actually happening in regard to tuning. What I am asking is, I notice that after driving the car the numbers themselves will be either black blue or red, and I am wondering if this is telling me to change something or if its just a product of things I have changed.
Posting a datalog and pictures of my afr\fuel tables here to see if you guys could let me know if I am going in the right direction. If not,any nudges definitely appreciated. Sorry in advance for my noobdom, or if i am not seeing some of the obvious flaws in my table. I promise i have been reading.
EDIT: I just realized my datalogs exceed 1mb. This is the only smaller one I have.