cabowabo

Quick n' dirty: Picked up a used MS3 Basic recently. Unit was never installed by PO, but when he bought it from Rev 2-3 years ago it had apparently spent a few weeks or so in another car. I'm a total n00b, but have been pouring through documentation, threads, and the basemap to determine what (or if anything) needs to be changed before I get going.

My car is a 97 N/A with I/H/E.

To get things started I bought TunerStudio and got the MS3 connected to check it out and save the tune from the controller. It was sitting on Firmware 1.2.4, which I have since bumped up incrementally to 1.4.1 (thanks for the thread TorqueZombie). Since doing that I've been looking through the basemap and have found some possible discrepancies and would like to get some experienced eyes on. To my noob eyes, the VE, AFR, and Ignition table actually look fairly sane, but I could be very wrong. The following appears to be off.

- Injector Size was set to 1000cc, which had Required fuel at 3.1. Setting it to stock 254cc gets required fuel to 12.2.

Ignition Options / Wheel Decoder
- Spark Mode: Miata 99-05 - as far as I can tell this should be 4g63. Everything else looks correct, other than maybe adjusting Trigger Angle to 0 as I already double checked timing at 10 BTDC.

- Boost Control Enabled: On. Not sure why this would be enabled on a basemap.

Speed and Gear Sensors
- Final Drive is correct at 4.1, but gears are setup for a 6 speed. I realize this is an easy enough fix, again, just curious why it would be on a 96-97 basemap.

Current tune attached.

cabowabo

Finished wiring up last night and have two problems: LC-2 not getting power and car won't start. Have tried contacting Rev numerous times over the past week and a half with no response. I bought this second hand, so don't really expect support, but was hoping to at least get initial settings and pinout for my DB37. Trial by fire isn't working out so far.

LC-2: Based off the instruction sheets I've looked at (Trackspeed, a friends 96-97 MS3 Basic, forums, etc) it looks like pin1 (white/red) is fused 12v, pin2 (black/yellow) is ground for wideband and Pin4 (yellow) is wideband input. Based off that I wired up power/ground to pin1/2. Pin4 isn't used on my DB37 and I don't have a yellow wire at all so it would seem it's not setup the same. Not really sure how to track down my 12v unless I go get a new multimeter or can I figure it out by opening the case? My decade old Coast Guard issued multimeter died some time ago.

Cranking
Spark mode 99-05 with cam input JS10 (How it was set when I first connected and also how my freinds 96-97 MS3 Basic basemap was set): Car turns over a few times and clunks. The ECU reboots because voltage drops. Going to buy a new battery today since an old battery putting out low voltage is obviously an issue with MS.

Bought a new battery. It's sputtering every few turns, but won't fire. If I push the throttle in it clears whatever fuel is in the cylinder and stops trying to fire. Mechanical timing is set to 10 BTDC, does this need to also be set with the MS or should I be good to go? Here's a log from trying to crank.

EDIT: Dur, read the instructions for the 100th time and realize how base timing is set in tunerstudio, but the car doesn't start regardless so can't get that far.

cabowabo

I assumed PO would have included any instructions, assuming is bad. Talked to him a bit ago and he sent pictures of the instructions, which don't vary from other versions I've seen. Going to recheck my wiring for wbo2 as it should be working.

cabowabo

BOOMSAUCE.

Went to my buddies oldest restore point and noticed it was setup for 4g63. His good tune was for, duh, his VVT swapped 96. With 4g63 spark mode we're cranked up and idling. Now to get the wbo2 working.

Miater

Multimeter is a must. At the very least a test light.

cabowabo

Yeah, went and got one a while ago once I finished up some suspension work. Pin 2/3 are good grounds as listed. Pin 1, which is supposed to be fused 12v is dead. Pin 10 is the only 12v I could find and it's neighbor Pin 11 is a 5v. No wires on those so I'll have to get that done. A couple of existing wires had 10.5v on them, not sure what that's about.

cabowabo

So despite finding power the most I'm getting off any pins is .04 amps. LC-2 documentation states 3 amps and as such it won't power on. The DB gauge can power up off that pin, but even it dims in pulses. Is there a known fix for this? I'm searching, but coming up empty so far.

acedeuce802

iTrader: (1)

Are you using the current meter correctly? You have to put a load in series to the multimeter to measure current, so the fact that it's drawing 0.04 amps could mean that the unit is faulty, or the wiring is bad (assuming you're using the current meter correctly). Use the multimeter to check for 12V.

cabowabo

It's actually only 12mA once I put it on a setting low enough to actually read a bit more accurate. When measuring voltage I'm getting 12v (11.92 or so) on Pin10, flip it to mA and it's drawing 12mA on the dot. If I wire up my innovate DB gauge to the wire I just moved to pin 10 for power and pin2 for ground (known good ground black/yellow) it comes on. If I measure those lines with the multimeter the gauge shuts off. So it powers the lowly gauge, but not enough amperage for the LC-2. Going to find another power source just to confirm the LC-2 isn't fubar.

FWIW the car starts and idles now that I got the ignition/spark settings sorted out. The DB37 is just wonked out. I guess I'll live if I can power the LC-2 elsewhere and find my o2 input, assuming it's there and still works.

cabowabo

Pin10 is RPM out on Trackspeeds documenation. Gauge dies as soon as the car is started and tach doesn't work. Welp.

How do I get pin1 working right? I took the ends off the case last night, but the boards seem pretty well wedged in there. I clearly need to be testing something related to pin1, who knows maybe it's just the fuse.

EDIT: Just wired the damn thing(s) to power window 12v for now. As long as signal is pin4 like it should be I'll at least be up and running and finally get to some tuning.

cabowabo

Buttoned up late last night and it's running like a champ. Power window 12v seems to work pretty well.