willeywilson

Hello All,

First post here but have been reading for many months.

I am hoping you can help me out with my Megasquirt install to my UK spec 1998 1.8 NB Miata (or MX5 as we call it).

The motor is completely stock whilst I acquire Turbo parts and I am desperate to get the AEM Wideband and Reverant Built MS2 Enhanced on this weekend, in an attempt to root out any issues and get a basic tune on their before I start fitting parts.

However, before I do that I wonder if you could look over my settings and tell me if anything is drastically wrong?

Reading THIS thread indicates that I may have the Ignition Falling Edge wrong and it should be Rising Edge instead???

I would greatly appreciate any help on this.

Thanks to Rev for the support so far on this fourth hand unit.

Thanks in advance

Engine & Sequential Settings


Ignition Settings


General Settings


MAP Settings


Injector Dead Time


EGO Control


AFR Table 1


Fuel VE Table 1


Ignition Table 1


Crank / Startup

4strings

iTrader: (1)

I'm not seeing any pictures.
You will often get more help by uploading your tune file (*.msq) and I think people prefer that it isn't named "currentTune.msq".

willeywilson

Thanks 4strings

I have updated with images uploaded to different site.

I will grab the .msq file from Tuner studio when I get home.

4strings

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a JimStim?
Change your coolant temp sensor calibrations to the RX7 ones.

willeywilson

I don't I'm afraid.

I will be calibrating all the sensors when I first plug it in as per the mega manual / Youtube teachings.

I am running stock Coolant and IAT sensors for now until I get the recommended GM ones. Are these available on this list of sensors or will I need to check resistance values at given temperatures?

My main worry at the minute is the Going High, Falling Edge ignition settings.

willeywilson

My tune is attached. If you could take a look and let me know where I've gone wrong that would be a massive help!!!

Thanks!

willeywilson

If someone could also check the "calibrate MAP/Baro" Settings that'd be great. this is an old Reverant 2 Enhanced unit so I aren't exactly sure which MAP sensor it has.

Thanks

4strings

iTrader: (1)

A problem is that settings like "going high" and alternately "going low" are dependant on how it is wired inside.

The builder may know or may not have the info on that particular unit any more. I built my own MS2 but I also know MANY others way out class my knowledge.

Alternatively, if you can open it up and get good pictures of how it's wired up inside. It may help others help you.

willeywilson

I agree, reading the thread I linked to earlier Reverant himself said he uses Going High Rising Edge on his ECU's so I am hoping that is correct and will be changing to that unless someone comes along and tells me differently. I can open it up but not until I'm back home tomorrow.

If the falling or rising edge is wrong will it definitely burn the coils or just run like a bag of crap?

4strings

iTrader: (1)

Falling or rising edge is reading the timing teeth. That shouldn't pose a danger to your ignition coils. I think It would either not run or run badly. You can check the high speed composite logger tab in tuner studio (when cracking or running) to see how the ecu is interpreting the signals for timing.

willeywilson

Thanks! Going to keep searching for info on this but hopefully it'll fire up Saturday afternoon. With regards to ignition, is 3.0ms dwell a tad long, should I shorten it to 2.5? and spark duration of 0.7ms? Sound right?

willeywilson

SHE LIVES!!!!

Started up first time on the key!!! Timing was a bit of a pig as I am using an ancient strobe light plus it wouldn't idle on it's own as I had Idle Control turned off. It was also REALLY Lean!

Tried using closed loop idle and it just revved up to 3 grand and sounded like a POS, plus it was leaning out over 18 AFR so I kept shutting it down.

Copied a few settings from the internet and managed to get it to idle a bit better but it is still really high, so once it was warm I turned Idle Control back off and took it for an autotune.

Autotune (set at 20% authority) helped keep it in the richer AFR zones on the AEM, but couldn't really feel the results and the front brakes have decided to bind on

Anyone got any idea whats going on with my closed loop idle? tune attached.

ALSO, my tacho keeps dying when I accelerate hard, reads fine when I lift off. Thoughts? Also had the battery light blink at me at high revs

Alternator issue maybe? Seen it on another car in the past.

Thanks

willeywilson

Video of Tacho dying

willeywilson

Tacho apparently fixed - Helps if Taco Output enabled is 'on' and it's on Pin Tachout. Who'd have thought eh?

However, this car WILL NOT IDLE.

I can get it to run and idle fine with all IAC settings turned off (except when first starting, I have to give it some gas) But when I try to follow the guides on MX5Nutz on how to set up the idle, it just revs to 2k, or 4k, or keeps rising slowly.

I have no idea what is going on with it, changed the valve frequency up and down, both make it rev higher

Completely confused.

adryargument

iTrader: (1)

warmup enrichment and after start enrichment.
My cars the opposite, idles well but runs piggy.

Hows your ve table run? My car wont start if its warm so i'm limited to idling until i fix the issue.
But i run hell lean after warmup enrichment ends so she conks out then i cant start her. Might steal a few values and go from there.

willeywilson

Been reading on WUE & ASE all evening and after tweaking un-tweeking and scratching my head, it still starts like a pig.

Annoyingly, if I hit the gas pedal as I am cranking it (as I do in most cars anyway) it starts within a second or so. The issue then is, I have to keep my foot on the pedal to keep it idling, if I lift my foot it drops to about 500RPM and stalls itself out running mega rich.

I 'tweaked' the ASE & WUE that much that my WB was showing AFR's in the 10's and the car stunk of fuel and was miss-firing, shaking like a sh****g dog.

I gave up to come inside and do more reading.

I have a feeling that it is all to do with this IAC valve that I cannot tune.

I have read THIS GUIDE from MX5Nutz start to finish, which is a bit pointless as my car fails at the first hurdle.

I select Idle Control > PWM Valve >Open Loop Warm Up. Start the car, it idles anywhere between 2k & 4k RPM

I go to Test IAC - Steps =100 - Enable test, if it isn't already idling high it shoots up to 4000 RPM. I then start to walk down as told in the guide and by the time I get to 97 it drops down to idle between 1000 and 2000! WTF!? Therefore I can't find my values to plug in to the next settings table.

I have tried inverting the valve settings I have tried copying numbers of the internet but nada. Nothing seems to work.

Anyone got any advice? I may make a specific thread...

adryargument

iTrader: (1)

I simply adjusted the idle screw on the engine until. It idles at 900+

willeywilson

I did that months ago on the Stock ECU haha. I would have thought I should be able to control the IAC from Megasquirt better than from Stock as I should be able to decide where it idles, without the need for the screw.

Also, I don't know if the screw can adjust it enough to compensate for a starting idle of 2300RPM haha.

4strings

iTrader: (1)

Tune everything open loop first.
Closed loop needs a baseline to work with.

jstck

Every car should have a Taco Output.

What was the tachometer connected to that made it almost-sorta-work the way it did?