Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Ok... 1993 miata... MS standalone... (fans on thermoswitch for now)

DB37 ---- Miata
7-9 ----> 2A (ground)
17-19 ----> 2C (ground)
20 ----> 2P (Intake air temp)
21 ----> 2Q (Coolant temp)
22 ----> 1N (tps 0v - Vb)
23 ----> 2N (O2 sensor)
24 ----> 2E (ignition input, CKP, primary)
25 ----> 2G (ignition input, CMP, secondary)
26 ----> 2L (tps vref)
28 ----> 1B (main relay power)
31 ----> 1H (Ignitor B, 2/3)
32-33 ----> 2U (Injector 1/4)
34-35 ----> 2V (Injector 2/3)
36 ----> 1G (Ignitor A, 1/4)
37 ----> wired in car to lt.green for Fuel Pump

Here is the link for the ecu pinout sheet on the car..
https://www.miataturbo.net/~web1_bra.../ecupinout.jpg
Here is the DIYautotune mods
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...azda_miata.htm

Hows that look? Wrong/right....

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Anyone? I have 30min to mod it before i spend 2.5hrs getting to the car to work on it tonight....

If all is well... I'll be starting car up tonight on Akaryrye's 550cc Al Hounos based map...

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

I can't note on the ECU pinouts but the MS side of it is correct and same as how i wired up my '99. Are you using bullet connectors or something like that?

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

I'm using the 18" Diyautotune harness and a boomslang obd1 Plug. I'm aiming for the only non plug/play wire to be the fuel pump... until i figure out which car harness wire i'll give up and tap for that purpose.

For getting the car running... i'll find it under the dash for now.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

One of my concerns btw is the TPS vref and TPS... I've got a manual.... and will be using a Nissan TB/tps... so i'll be using the wiring from the miata on a nissan tps...

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Take a soldering iron with you.
Not saying i know that something is backwards but when i was getting spark to work i had my coil wires backwards and the car wouldn't fire. Never looked to see if i had it wrong compared to the documentation or what but that fixed my spark problem. The nissan TPS will be an interesting setup. Take pics of how you adapt it to the miata.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

I doubt it will matter. All tps's are just 5 volt potentiometers. Scott might be able to shed some more light though since he just wired up the auto tps to the manual harness.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Thats exactly what I'm looking for... basically if i got it right .

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Well.. my picture host from my build is down... but with the intake manifold we built we used a Nissan TB... bigger than the miata one and variable tps... basically we used it because it was sitting in the garage

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I basically wired the 3 wires the same. switch > switch, ground > ground, TPS > WOT, then I'm tapping the 5ref off the line that goes into 2M off the AFM harness.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

I see, i didn't know you were using the Nissan TB. I was assuming you were making a sweet little adapter for a nissan TPS to mate it to the miata TB. Stock throttle cable gonna work for you fine?

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Stock cable is working fine. Custom manifold made it easy to use something else. We had a complete (with real tps) Nissan one sitting around and used it. I can easily goto a even larger TB later by retapping and boring out our TB baseplate.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

So no start... not feeding fuel or spark. Ignitor gets warm, but nothing untouchable. Fuel pump primes (I found the lt.grn wire inside the cabin... i took pictures for reference later).

Grounds are good I believe.... thoughts?

Matt Cramer

Are you getting an RPM signal when you crank it?

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

You know, I don't think there was RPM when my friend cranked it while I watched the gauges in MT....

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Btw. "stim as wheel" gets me RPM fine in MT with the stim attached (off when on car of course).

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Found one flaw in the DIY autotune harness. It is supposed to have blue (14 gauge) at pins 32+33 and green (14 gauge) at pins 34+35. I just opened db shell and checked wires with a meter... its reversed. Blue is 34+35 and green is 32+33. So I know my ignition stuff was reversed... I'll remedy that by just switching the blue/green on my obd1 harness.

Here's my exact wire up... (without the green/blue swap)
ECU - DIy harness color - Diy Harness pinout
1B - red - pin28
1G - brown - pin36
1H - grn/wht - pin31
1N - blue - pin22
2A - blk (14/big) - pin7-9
2C - blk (14/big) - pin17-19
2E - shielded white - pin24
2G - blue/white - pin25
2L - gray - pin26
2N - pink - pin23
2P - orange - pin20
2Q - yellow - pin21
2U - blue (14/big) - pin34+35
2V - green (14/big) - pin32+33

2U and 2V (blue/green) are ones I believe are incorrect according to originally following diy harness pinout/wires vs checking it physically.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Boy i hope i didn't fry my ignitor (that would happen with reversed ignition wiring right?). At least knowing I haven't gotten fuel yet means its something else off also.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Oh... the ecu pinouts are from the ecupinout.jpg curtosey of Braineack.
ECU pinouts as per the sheet, wording is off sheet... [] used for my comments.
1B = Main relay power
1G = Igniter
1H = Igniter
1N = Throttle Sensor (idle point) 0V-Vb [on/off? or maybe 5-0v...shrug]
1R = Fan switch (wanna figure out this for ecu to control fan)
2A = Ground (Injector)
2C = Ground (CPU)
2E = Crank Angle Sensor (Ne-signal)
2G = Crank Angle sensor (G-Signal)
2I = Igniter (unsure what this is compared to the Igniters on the 1 plug)
2L = Throttle Sensor (Power terminal) [wot - 5v and closed - 0v)
2N = Oxygen Sensor
2P = Airflow sensor (intake air thermosensor) [GM IAT wired in]
2Q = Water Thermosensor
2U = Injector (nos. 1,3)
2V = Injector (nos. 2,4)

Matt Cramer

Reversed injector pinout shouldn't be an issue, but I'll check some of our stock of harnesses to be sure they aren't labeled incorrectly.