honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

Ok, lets try this in the right forum this time...

I got a MSPNP from braineak a few months ago and I'm I've searched this forum and google for a while now, but it seems like everyone knows what to do with the DB15 connector... and I don't!
The instructions from Braineak (which are 95% great, I really do appreciate them alot) say to wire things to the db15 connector and also at other times to a specific wire from the db15 that's been labeled as something (ex. EBC) and I only received the female connection, metal hood for that connection, and 6' of unlabeled orange wire.

I do not know what is to be connected to where on the db15.

Also, I found the instructions on wiring the MS so that it can control the fuel pump to be vague as well. I found a little blurb about running a wire from a green wire(Is the the fuel pump relay?) under the dash to the db15 connector. But again, I don't know where that wire should go on the db15.

The DB15 and fuel pump are the only things holding me back from connecting the car to a computer and getting it running again. I really just want to be able to drive my car again. So any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

-Sean

Matt Cramer

Sounds like you don't have a standard MSPNP - those would not have a DB15. Do you have a DIYPNP instead? They're very different animals.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Yeah DIYPNP.

I should have labeled the inputs for your DB15. But, just checking, it's possible I didn't put anything on the db15 as you mentioned you have a completely stock setup. So I didn't run any jumpers to the Db15 plug and therefore you have nothing you need to plug into it.

As far as the fuel pump, the way I was doing it for years now was simply putting a jumper between GND and F/P in the diagnostics connector. This pretty much just runs the fuel pump anytime there is power.

What you can do on the mainboard, is solder a wire from the pin hole labeled Fuel Pump, run it to any of the 15 pins on the DB15 connector holes. Then you can solder a wire into the corresponding location on the DB15 female plug. From this wire you can run it across the dash the the steering column near where your left knee would be.

It's a lime green looking connector:


you would tap the that light green wire seen in the pics. This way the MS will acutally activate the fuel pump at the appropriate times.

With the new v1.5DIYPNP we can activate the fuel pump like the MSPNP and the only thing that must be done is to remove the ST_SIG fuse. But for now you pretty much have those two options.


Also if you ever want/need to add a WBo2, the process will be similar. You can either tap the input directly into the factory o2 wiring. Or on the DIYPNP mainboard, remove the jumper wire from o2 sensor to the adapter board at position 2N and instead run the wire to one of the DB15 ports. Then you can run the WBo2 input into the db15 connector.


Clear things up?

honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Eventually I figured I didn't have the connections because I
didn't need them yet. I may have to revisit this post once I do have a wide bando2 ebc etc... . . . . The issue I have now is the wells tps isn't sending a signal to the ecu because I'm getting the same value for 0 and 100 percent throttle.. and also I'm not getting any spark.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

per my directions: the TPS connector MUST be unplugged.

see the bottom of page two in bold red and the lengthy explanation about it

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Scott,

For the 1.6 cars I recommend not running anything from VREF to the adapter harness. Then it won't matter if the TPS is plugged in or not. Also, (though you probably already do this), lay a resistor between the TPS pin and ground. This will prevent TPS from floating.

honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

I was under the impression that you disconnect the tps only if you don't upgrade to a linear tps. I inatalled a Wells tps as per your instructions found online.

Also I know I don't have spark because I tried to arc the plug on the valve cover.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

can you take a log of it cranking please.

honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

Sure. It may be a day or so. I live in Chicago and the car's located about an hour away.

So any other tips for me to try when I get access to the car again?

Was I correct about the tps or should it be disconnected?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you are correct, if the wells tps mod has been done then you should be okay, i prewired it so you can run the tps. we need to see why it's not sending spark,you should be seeing rpms on the virtual dashboard when you crank.

acutally a composite logo if cranking would be good as well, that way i can see if it's seeing the proper signals from the CAS. and your msq while you are at it.

honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

Do you mean the msq file you provided?

I'm going to try to get to the car tomorrow to pull that log.

honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

Alright. I just took a log of the car trying to start and what happens is everything stays still and my rpm guage is pegged at some crazy number.

I've attached the log and my msq file (which I haven't opened or run yet).

Ok so I have to run inside to do this aparently uploads are disabled from my droid....

EDIT: Attached!

honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

Come on guys, I live an hour away from the car and I came up today after work just to post up this log.

Help a brotha out!

EDIT: With the stock ECU, the car starts right up. So it has to be something w/ the DIYPNP...

honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

I'll be making a stop at the car tonight to try to get it running but I would really appreciate some follow up on the log/msq I posted.

But at what point do I start to consider that something's wrong with the DIYpnp?

Matt Cramer

Pegged RPM gauge means a settings conflict, and it won't start the motor until you un-confuse it. You have your tach output set to JS10, which on a DIYPNP is also spark output 1. Turn tach output off.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

What 'crazy number' are you seeing? 65K rpm? If so, that means you have config error (software settings problem) which you need to address before you can continue.

99.99% of all problems we see are either improper assembly or incorrect settings. One guy shorted 12v to 5v and fried some stuff on his module, but these things have been rock solid.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

You know what's sad? Matt's sitting next to me in the van, we're sharing the same mobile broadband connection and talking to each other as we ride down the road, and we still managed to double reply to the same thread.

Well whatever, that's some good customer service right.

honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

Wow. Thanks for the replies.
I'll turn off the Tach output and see what happens.
I should be at the car in about an hour.

How would I get a usable Tach signal back though if that is the issue?

Thanks again!

honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

It runs!

I turned off the Tach output and also disabled boost and over boost control since I'm Na and it was saying there was some conflict with the boost control.

I don't want to get too excited until it's out on the road, but thank you so much for your help!

honeydesean

iTrader: (1)

Well the car starts, by it is running very rich and I have to work the throttle to keep It from dying. It can't idle on its own even after it's warmed up.

Would the Wells tps (if there was something wrong with it) be the cause of that?

My tuning map is almost exactly what brainiak sent me so I wouldn't think it would need heavy tuning just to keep it running. So it seems like there's some setting that needs to be changed.
Also it shows the fuel load as very high no matter what I'm doing with the throttle.

Thoughts?