Guys, this is my first time with any aftermarket ECU, so go easy on me if you see anything dumb and if you want me to produce any logs or other files please let me know.
Here's what i have:
1990 1.6 Miata with FM Voodoo II kit. Tan Top injectors. 5psi boost.
AFM Delete, GM IAT. Stock TPS (unplugged)
Electronic Boost Control (mounted & wired, not plumbed in or activated)
AEM-30-4100 wideband, Powered by the DIYPNP and connected to the stock 02 input.
DIYPNP unit, wired and configured as per the instructions here
My only change being the DIYPNP is running MS2/Extra 3.1.1 release firmware.
Base tune from the link above.
Set CLT sensor to values shown on the page above. However I've noticed the CLT sensor readings are really high. the DIYPNP and therfore tunerstudio reporting my temps in the 240f range. even though the dumb guage is to the left of vertical. I've never had an issue with overheating on this car, so i'm inlined to belive the DIYPNP/tunerstudio is reading high. This may be effecting what i'm describing below?
Initial start from the 240 base map was sluggish, even after i adusted the req fuel for the 265 tan tops. Was running really lean, numbers in the high 18's. and ocilating quite badly. Eventually was able to get a stable enough idle so i could check base timing. Locked timing to 10 and checked against the crank with a timing light. My offset comes to 2.
To get the idle to smooth out i adjusted the air bypass screw. Now i don't know what the initial (stable, stock ECU, 850rpm) idle was because stupidly i didnt count the number of turns i made of the screw
Is there a way i can set the car to a known good idle like the old GND & 10 procedure without having to plug the stock ECU back in?
I have a problem getting a good idle, especially with the AC on.
From cold start, in garage and not driving, it idle's above 1500 and then as the engine warms it slows down to just below 1000rpm. Fair enough. Putting the headlights on makes it occilate a little, but it settles down again to just below 1000rpm. However, putting the AC on makes it bog horribly, car sounds like a diesel and idles around 500rpm. Not good.
I've got the car running pretty well during normal driving, crusing and accellerating. There is obviously more work to do and Autotune has done the most work so far, i just adjusted the AFR table. It's leaps and bounds smoother than using the Voodoo box with the stock ECU.
The interesting thing is while driving the car, the idle hovers around 1200-1300rpm. If i put the AC on the idle drops down to 1000 but the engine doesn't knock. This is repeatable while driving, however if i then stop the car and restart it, idle resumes at 1000rpm and cannot be made to deviate from that unless i take it for a drive again.