Oochi's MS3X DIY Build
#101
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Edit: I just read where it says I need the beta version of tuner studio. It works now
I loaded the beta firmware onto it and tried to connect it to tuner studio and got these errors;
I tried creating a new project, deleting my old one and starting another new one.
I loaded the beta firmware onto it and tried to connect it to tuner studio and got these errors;
I tried creating a new project, deleting my old one and starting another new one.
#105
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I downloaded the zip file from http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=125&t=44957 and ran the ms3loader so I should have the newest firmware loaded onto it. I created a new project and the stim was working, I tried loading your tune and its still at 0% at sending it to the controller
#107
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Ok that seemed to work. I changed the dwell to 3.5 and the injector to 230cc, turned boost control off, I think launch settings should stay the same (?) . It was already on semi-seq and wasted spark...? For req_fuel, are you saying I need to change the options in the calculater?
#110
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Started getting the car ready, installed intake with iat sensor, wired into maf along with fuel pump jump in maf, ran vacuum line, put in wideband o2, grounded wideband and 1 ms3x wire at the block by the fuel rail (other 4 into harness), installed wb gauge, unplugged tps, pulled the 10 amp st_sign fuse...did I miss anything or do anything wrong? I remember reading somewhere about unplugging ignition coils? Just have to finish wiring in the ecu and wideband and hopefully it will work or I will kick and burn zebras.
#111
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the st_sign fuse didnt have to be pulled, but doesnt matter anyway.
you only need to unplug coils/ignitor if youre flashing firmware with the MS connected to the car.
You might need to install a 1K resistor on your tps input wire to ground if you have no vTPS...this will kepe the signal stuck at 0%...other the input floats and youll see the TPS% slowly and constantly increase while you drive...this can screw up things like enrichments and idle activation.
you only need to unplug coils/ignitor if youre flashing firmware with the MS connected to the car.
You might need to install a 1K resistor on your tps input wire to ground if you have no vTPS...this will kepe the signal stuck at 0%...other the input floats and youll see the TPS% slowly and constantly increase while you drive...this can screw up things like enrichments and idle activation.
#114
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That's what I did. Don't know which is the signal and which is the ground (there are 3) I tried bottom and middle and it read 0 for both open and closed and it wont idle, tried middle and top and it it read 320 for both and wouldnt idle, tried bottom and top and it read something really high for both, idled for a good 3 seconds then died and wont start back up.
Smell a lot of fuel though
Smell a lot of fuel though
#115
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dude, you cant just do ----. one of those is a 5v signal and could damage things.
I mean you built the harness, so you know where every wire goes.
that means if you put the gray 5v wire on 1Nm then you know it's the RED wire that has 5v going to it at your TPS connector.
and if you had the service manual youd know that the Red wire is the top hole (side with the extra nub jetting out)
or even without, you should easily be able ot figure it out.
ground is almost always black/green, so you'd know that's the middle hole, so you'd naturally jump the middle and bottom pins (2L).
the fact that you got 0 for closed and 0 for open means you had it right the first time.
but sounds like your idling issue is mainly due to fueling. what did you scale the req_fuel back to? you should have doubled the number in the map i provided.
PS: im not trying to be a jerk, but you just need to be careful, it's REALLY easy to damage something when messing around with the black arts of electricity. Having your MS3 daughterboard repaired because you fried it costs over $100...ask me how I know.
I mean you built the harness, so you know where every wire goes.
that means if you put the gray 5v wire on 1Nm then you know it's the RED wire that has 5v going to it at your TPS connector.
and if you had the service manual youd know that the Red wire is the top hole (side with the extra nub jetting out)
or even without, you should easily be able ot figure it out.
ground is almost always black/green, so you'd know that's the middle hole, so you'd naturally jump the middle and bottom pins (2L).
the fact that you got 0 for closed and 0 for open means you had it right the first time.
but sounds like your idling issue is mainly due to fueling. what did you scale the req_fuel back to? you should have doubled the number in the map i provided.
PS: im not trying to be a jerk, but you just need to be careful, it's REALLY easy to damage something when messing around with the black arts of electricity. Having your MS3 daughterboard repaired because you fried it costs over $100...ask me how I know.
Last edited by Braineack; 05-25-2012 at 10:27 AM.
#116
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That was a stupid move and yeah I should not have done that, I honestly don't know why I even did, just wanted it to work.
I don't have a service manual and the wire colors aren't revealed. How would I know if I damaged something? I also noticed I wasn't getting a an AFR signal and my gauge isn't getting power for some reason. Probably linked to the janky quick release crimps I used
No I understand I need someone to tell me when I do things wrong
I don't have a service manual and the wire colors aren't revealed. How would I know if I damaged something? I also noticed I wasn't getting a an AFR signal and my gauge isn't getting power for some reason. Probably linked to the janky quick release crimps I used
PS: im not trying to be a jerk, but you just need to be careful, it's REALLY easy to damage something when messing around with the black arts of electricity. Having your MS3 daughterboard repaired because you fried it costs over $100...ask me how I know.
#118
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about the req fuel thing, do I need to mess with the 'calculator'? the calculator is showing 8 cyl. but on the standard page everything is right. And just to double check, I need to be on semi-seq fuel and not seq fuel off?
#119
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i have it setup for 460cc injectors, so just double the number that was in there. so 6.2 becomes 12.4
yes, should be semi-sequntial fuel, just like the map was. I was running that in my car using wasted spark and batch fuel. so you dont need to touch anythign there, but you should change the dwell up from 2.1 to 4.0.
that should get it running.
log when you crank.
yes, should be semi-sequntial fuel, just like the map was. I was running that in my car using wasted spark and batch fuel. so you dont need to touch anythign there, but you should change the dwell up from 2.1 to 4.0.
that should get it running.
log when you crank.
#120
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Ok i got it idling, which it is doing so around 13.4 afr, and the idle rpm was kind've increasing as it warmed up. started around 1200 rpm and made its way just shy of 1400. if i tap the gas it feels like it drops and goes way lean for a split second. I don't really know what to do from here lol. I'm just surprised it works to be honest.